New forge no info

[Foamhead]

I recieved an inexpensive Hells Forge single burner oval forge with 1" spun ceramic with surface treatment insulation and a pretty questionable regulator with no gauge, and no instructions whatsoever which i after one try at lighting it replaced it with a Kibuw 30psi regulator with gauge so my first question is where do i start as far as the air adjustment collar at top and propane PSI? i dont know the size of the tip orifice sombody start me out so my son can pound some hot metal

[ThomasPowers]

What did the manufacturer suggest when you contacted them?

[JHCC]

Foamhead, I see this is your first post, so Welcome to IFI! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!!

[Mikey98118]

So, it is safe to assume this is the single burner version. First of all, you have probably lucked into the best design in their forge series.

The burner should self adjust its air to the gas flow. The choke will prove helpful  for keeping the flame stable until the burner and forge heat up, and for protecting the burner from chimney effects after shutdown. Other than that you should only need the choke when you want to deliberately achieve rich flame. Such tricks are well down the road.

You will want to increase the insulation, rigidize it, and seal Coat it EVENTUALLY.

To begin with, just buy four hard firebricks, with which to form a configurable opening in front of the exhaust. Give yourself and your son time to learn your forge before trying to due everything possible to it. While you are doing that, read through Forges 101, to understand the fine points of getting the most possible from your very good beginning.

Also, I never advise sticking with their original hose; I think it is junk. You will find some advice about where and how to buy a braided stainless steel fuel hose, on the cheap, in the latest page of either Burners 101 or Forges 101. Have fun and make sure your reading stays ahead of your decisions.

[Foamhead]

Thanks Mikey98118 the replacement regulator that i purchased has a braided cover on the hose and is six foot instead of four i am having some trouble getting the regulator to thread onto the tank properly so the on /off valve on the tank will function it worked fine the first time after shut off i havent been able to get the valve to open again i have several grills and smokers and have never had this problem 

and if i ever do get it back on what is a good pressure for warm up and forging

[ThomasPowers]

I've never seen that to be a problem of the regulator as the check valve is internal to the tank.  The only thing I know of is to open the tank valve slowly and have the regulator turned to zero too so there isn't a big initial rush. Some tanks have an issue resetting the check valve and require a thunk to get them to reset. 

[Foamhead]

Ok got my forge set up with brick 'Doors' which helped to get my first successful test burn and heated a little rebar to see where my temp was i still get an occasional "chimney fire that blows right out and improves and temp comes up in forge but still very unsettling and with the flame "spill out the end i did lose some beard leaning in to puff out the flame should i add a "roof brick at each end to clean up the convection around the venturi?

I know i am still not in the category where these posts should be but i will work on refining my 'behavior' in the future, meanwhile thanks for the assist from each of you it has been helpful and supportive

IMG_0719.MOV

[Frosty]

Are those FIRE BRICKS? If not they're not going to survive long. I ask because they look like concrete pavers but I could be wrong, it happens all the time.

Listen to your burner how they sound tells you a lot about how they're burning. The video sounds like it has too much back pressure. Opening the back up a little might help Assuming the choke is open completely, if not open it up, let that baby breath!  

Frosty The Lucky.

[Mikey98118]

There are a LOT of improvements you need to make, and easily can, on your forge; take your time about making them. I suggest that you begin with Plistex or Wayne's other finish coat, in order to seal your insulation and to raise the temperature in the forge through radiant emission. With a little luck your forge temperature will raise from orange up into yellow, while your forge's insulation becomes much better protected; this simple and inexpensive step will allow you to enjoy your forge and TAKE YOUR TIME in learning how to get more out of your forge, instead of rushing into an attempt to finish it, and botching the job.

Re-emission of radiant energy throughout a forge is synergistic with performance of a burner's flame; which is why it is so valuable, and also  why it's importance is so hard for beginners to accept.

[Mikey98118]

On ‎6‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 11:15 AM, Foamhead said:

what is a good pressure for warm up and forging

Just bring the forge up to orange incandescent. Then look at the gas pressure it takes to get there, and use it afterwards.

[ThomasPowers]

Note you seem to be assuming that  people actually have calibrated their gauges and that your gauge is calibrated too.  This tends not to be the case.  Mikey has the straight dope:  see what *YOUR* system runs at and use that as a guide.

[Mikey98118]

No; I think of gauges as handy for newbies when repeating desired performance; I used them when first writing about high speed tube burners, and will use them again anytime I write up future burner designs, in a book. People want to know what the lowest safe gas pressure a given burner can be run at, and what its maximum stable gas pressure is. I simply look at forge color for anything else. Nor does anyone need a pressure gauge for minimum and maximum pressure is, once people understand their burners, whether warmed up or cold; they use their ears for that.

People don't calibrate their gauges; most gauges are not accurate near the bottom of their pressure range anyway. Like Frosty, I see a limit to what is practical; for me the line exists in the parts we have to buy, such as gauges.

It is hard to be a nit piker most of the time and quit loose some times; good thing I'm contrary 

The problem is, when it comes to tools, they are what they are; not what we wished they were; not what we want them to be. On top of that, even when we get things right, our tools become outdated, and then the right thing is to let go and start all over again 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

I realize my gauge may not be accurate (not calibrated) but it is a good indicator as to where the regulator is set when starting up the forge and where you are at during operation. I also go by sound when running the forge. The 4 three burner forges at ESSA do not have gauges and are regulated by sight & sound. As a long time user of O/A torches, I wouldn't want to use them without gauges even though I could. One just has to realize my psi shown on my gauge may and probably is different than yours.

[Mikey98118]

Yup.

[paulgatx]

Hi Foamhead, I have the exact same forge and I'm using the stock burner, hose, and regulator, but I heavily modified the inside.  You can do a quick search and find my post with what I did.  I'm about as far from an expert as you can get, but I've had very good initial results with this setup.  Only a little but of huffing every once in a while, but gets super hot very quickly with relatively low flow (don't know how low without a gauge).

Also, the owner seems very nice and willing to talk.  Before I modified mine I talked to him to make sure I wasn't going to screw anything up.  He should have included his number on the instruction book.

Happy forging!