ryancrowe92 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 No I haven't fired it up yet I waited till 2 to finish it because of the wind and I was using the torch but I have a section still and then I might have some welding to do to make a extension on the bottom I still have to make my mount But over all it looks good or I might shorten up the pipe a little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Rotor looks to be an ok size. The rim on the barrel part looks a bit tall which is ok IF you notch it down on either side to be able to lay your bar stock flat on the rotor to be able to heat middle sections. Otherwise you'll have the same problem of only being able to heat the ends. Can you explain your piping? It isn't just a pipe coming down off the bottom of the rotor to the pipe coming out the side on the ground, is it? If so it will get clogged with ash and not function well. You want a T pipe where the air inlet is above the section where ash can be collected and dumped out occasionally. This can be welded up pretty easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 The pipe is a 2 inch diameter which goes into a square tube tee and then another pipe and I can turn it upside down and then beat it out or use the fan which is op for this forge but not to op Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 I don't think I have any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 The point of a T fitting is to not have to turn it upside down to dump it out or even disturb the forge. I'm not sure if I'm understanding exactly how you have the pipe. A picture would help if you could get one later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 I might can get one when I get home. But the fan keeps the forge clean because it's op but not leaf blower op Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Probably not As big an issue with charcoal as it is with coal but still. Try to get a picture when you get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 I just cut up some pine sawmill slabs and that's what I have been using for fuel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Opposing slots, or a slot and a mouse hole to be able to put long pieces in the hot zone. Note this is NOT at the tuyere opening level but as couple inches above it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Dudes I got a project that I need your help with. I will send a link to a video later when I make it it's a surprise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Can you tell me what I've got here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Well, you have an old rivet forge there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 I got it for free along with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Back to the forge It needs new legs Big problem with fan the mount is busted the crank is missing and my blower is too strong It seems to have been converted to a bottom blast forge Also it's cast iron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Pan on the river forge looks cast. Don't forget to line it with clay so it doesn't crack. There are many good posts about it on here. Yeah legs are easy enough. It was always a bottom blast. If the blower is gone use something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 The fan needs work or I need to get a new one I have another forge I have yet to get What tools do I need to get these special head machine bolts out with and what is the wheel for on the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 You'll need a fitsall wrench for the bolts, and the wheel was to run the blower that it originally had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Before you use the fitsall wrench, use plenty of penetrating fluid. It took many years for the bolts to get in their current condition, so go slow when you are trying to get them separated. And remember loose is not off. Go a little each way to move the penetrating fluid deeper and deeper between the threads and into the gaps. Patience is the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 The forge has been disassembled and repairs have been started also I found out that that anvil I have is a wrought iron anvil because it soft when you hit it hard but I'm going to have to do something about the face to make it harder. The Lincoln welder I tested out and it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 STOP! What percentage does the ball bearing test show the anvils rebound at over the face? How did you find out that the anvil face is "soft when you hit it hard"? Also, any pictures or thorough description on what you are doing to repair the forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 To answer your question no I did not do the rebound test I happened to have a cast iron anvil and know that Trent said and I quote wrought iron is softer and will saddle back over time and it got ding up like the cast iron anvil I got from hf. And it's old old enough to be a wrought iron anvil man who had it was born in the 30's and his dad probably owned it no progress has been made of yet my dad and grandpa wants to offer advice on how to fix it and if it's not their way it's wrong if they mess up I'm hand doing all of it. Here is the good news I have to remake the fan cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 For the last several hundred years Wrought Iron anvils have had high carbon steel faces. We are trying to figure out if your anvil lost it's temper in a structure fire. The bounce test will tell us it's state. Most good anvils will ding if you hit them hard enough with the edge of your hammer. Doing anything to that anvil would probably hurt it more than help it. So before you drop it's value by 1/2 or more; lets figure out what's going on with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryancrowe92 Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 It has rebound because I hit a hammer on it and it has a pretty good rebound to it hit my head with hammer in process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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