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Posted

Hey I picked up this anvil and have been trying to identify it it is 200lbs and has 2 identifying marks on it a raised 20 and a 41 with a dot on either side. It is my first anvil and a excited to finally find one after a year or so of searching. I’m in the process of stripping the paint off of it, I don’t think a anvil should be painted.  Sorry it’s wet in the pictures I just finished presser washing it. 

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Posted

Are there any markings on the sides of the anvil?  The raised letters on the base suggest that part was cast.  It also is lacking the square handling holes that would be characteristic of a forged base.  How is the rebound on the face?  Does it ring or sound more like a thud?  Maybe it's the pictures, but I'm not seeing any indication of a hard steel top either.

My vote also is for a Vulcan or it could be completely cast steel.  If it's a Vulcan, it's not a bad starter anvil.

Posted

Look around the base between the feet. Here is a picture of a very early vulcan and you can see the arm and hammer logo in this location.00I0I_4DFqJxtqESh_600x450.jpg.8952bd7a220e90b92201c1f2f24b6047.jpg.fac8dc0997c12bd34899da1e47559595.jpg

How much did you pay if you dont mind me asking?

What are you taking the paint off with?

Posted

Vulcans do have a steel face; but it's not real thick. The very low step between the face and the cutting step is very charaisticof Vulcans.

It looks to be in great shape and would make a nice "starter" anvil.

Posted

Rebound it pretty good I’d say but I’m new. I’ll go take some more pictures.  I’m pretty sure there’s a hard steel top. On the one side I’ve paint stripped it doesn’t look like there’s any is on the side. 

Posted

Rebound it pretty good I’d say but I’m new. I’ll go take some more pictures.  I’m pretty sure there’s a hard steel top. On the one side I’ve paint stripped it doesn’t look like there’s any is on the side. 

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I’m removing the paint with paint stripper I don’t want to remove any metal. 

Posted

I dont know if i would consider it a starter anvil. Vulcans have gotten a bad rep because of people abusing them. I wouldnt use a striker with it and try to limit your hammers to around 6 lbs and try to stay away from the edges and always hammer HOT steel and this anvil can out live you!

I personally really like vulcan anvils i have a vulcan #10 100 lbs in near mint condition. 

The #20 on yourz is the weight. And the 41 indicates the year. So yours was made in 1941. The year america entered WW2.

I am working on getting a 200 lber myself. I found one in mint condition i just need to save a little more money.

Posted

Thanks so much. I’ll take care of it. I can’t wait to use it. Looks like tomorrow’s the day. 

Posted

I own a Vulcan Myself---a gift after I replaced it with a swedish cast steel anvil.  Note the very bad casting porosity  on the horn where it broke off and the ridged face where they wore through the face. of course my most damaged anvil is probably the PW (at least that what Postman "guessed" it had been) posted above the Vulcan.  It had been a complete anvil at one time as it was weight stamped  more than double what the remains weigh. (I have an 1828 William Foster too missing the heel and 90% of the face...)

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Posted

Man those have definitely seen better days.

Im going to have to take a look at the under side of mine to see if it is hollowed out like yours. I dont ever recall looking under mine.

Posted

I'm guessing the Vulcan was used for cold shoeing---the razorback face is common with that use. You could see the piping coming out undr the steel plate on the horn.  How they ever let that one pass inspection and get sold I do NOT know.  Over Christmas my scrapyard owner told me they had "saved" a 50# Vulcan for me. I bought it and then passed it on to a fellow who wanted a travel anvil for armour repair. Decent shape so I sold it to him for US$1 a pound. What I object to is folks wanting  Trenton, A&H, HB,PW, MH---top of the line.prices for what was the economy line anvil

Note the PW has had the soft wrought iron top mushroomed---so it saw a lot of hammering *after* it was broken!  

I try to use even my badly abused anvils at least one project a year---so they know that I don't hold their abuse against them and still consider them *ANVILS*!  (Having a "non-standard world view" doesn't bother me)

 

Posted

Nice quiet Vulcan, in good shape; I just would NOT pay the same as for a HB, PW, Trenton, A&H,...Vulcans are more of the "ford escort" of anvils: decent, usable, common; but not a top end item.  Of course many people selling Anvils don't have a clue about them---I was at HF once and the salesman told me their anvil marked cast iron was made from steel!

Posted

I have also been told by a anvilfire guru it was a American made steel faced cast iron probably a Fisher-Norris. I’m just happy to finally have a real anvil they are so hard or so expensive where I am. 

Posted

The horn doesn't look Vulcan to me . too skinny. The 150# Vulcan I have has a very robust-blocky horn.

NJAnvilman runs the Fisher Norris museum, and he is a member here.

Seeing that you are up in Canada I wonder if it my be a cast steel Brooks from England. I would test under the base to see if it is cast iron or cast steel throughout. A quick hit with a sharp drill bit should show it. Gray flakes would be iron , stringy chips would be steel.

As to paint...I believe every anvil I own has paint on it, and some are painted at the factory. For collectors the original paint is a plus.

Posted

The more i look at it things are not quite adding up. One thing i am almost certain about is it is not a brooks. 

The sweep under the heel is not vulcan. The horn is neither vulcan or fisher. The depression under the base is not vulcan either but i cant say about the fisher norris.

21 hours ago, Bolster said:

 

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Looking at this picture it looks cast iron to me. Any chance of getting some pictures now that the paint is stripped?

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