cbrianroll Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Went to buy parts from local stores....no one has a 1"x3/4" "t". Is a 1" with a 3/4 reducer acceptable? Or a 3/4 drilled out to 1"? (If it's thick enough) Also in the plans it says if needed/optional for a flare.....being my first forge is it a good or bad idea to not have one? Starting out I'll be making flint strikers, knifes from railroad spikes, etc. Basics. I have read alot of info here, I have memory problems due to an injury so my apoligies if i ask questions that are simple or addressed previously. Thank you for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Welcome! A number of us have issues from TBI, a couple of us; you can read our posts and see how we gradually got better over time. Not knowing which of the 150 or so countries participating here makes it hard to make suggestions on where to find parts---if you edit your profile to list a general location we won't have to try to remember it from post to post (look under my name over to the left here for an example.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Some have made the reducer work, but it is far from ideal. You should be able to source a reducing T from any decent plumbing supply shop, or certainly online with an easy search for reducing malleable pipe tees (Grainger Item # 5P492, for example). I am a fan of using flares, as they make it easier to tune IMHO. If you don't use one in the forge proper you can often emulate their operation by correctly shaping the insulation layer near the burner entrance. Also, once a forge gets up to temperature there is less issue with flame stability as well, unlike having the flame outside the forge. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Thanks, just added location to my profile. All the good shops are closed during weekends here. I'm going to see if our local fireplace guy can hook me up, maybe our plumber also. Really wanted to build it this weekend....oh well. Should have also stated I'm building a forge like Wayne Coes "build a gas forge". Wife's bringing me a new welder home cuz mine died when I was welding hinges on lol. Hopefully have it done by sat. (If everything arrives by then) is it a good idea to start a build thread to ask questions as needs and for people to give advice? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Welcome aboard Brian, glad to have you. I'm another member of the lucky to be alive club and have dents in my head to prove it. Seriously visible dents and the TBI that goes with it. One word of advice to you here. Do NOT rush. Take your time and do it right. The only thing rushing does for me is make my mistakes permanent sooner. The fireplace guy will have little or nothing you can use building a forge, not plumbing, not fire brick, not refractories, virtually nothing. A fire place fire is a world and a good 1,000 f. different from a propane forge. Outside of a tray to go under a wood stove or your forge a fire place store doesn't have anything applicable. A 1"x 3/4" T is common off the shelf at a plumbing supply as are the brass fittings you'll need to connect the jet. You'll want to go to a welding supply for mig tips and they should have a tap to match. While you're at the welding supply take a look at the torch welding, brazing, silver soldering, etc. section. There will be welding, etc. flux, maybe more than one brand. Read the ingredients the ones with Boric acid and borax are the same stuff forge welding fluxes are made of. The stuff at the welding shop costs maybe 1/4 what the "real" forge welding fluxes do. In Wasilla Alaska a 1 lb. can of Peterson #2 Blue costs $23. and change shipping including. Now look through a blacksmith catalog and compare. The biggest trick making a T burner is using a drill press and floor flange. The flange lets you clamp the T to the drill table so it won't move and you can drill and tap ALL the holes in exactly the same place. This is IMPORTANT. If you have questions, give me a shout. Be patient though I don't always check my comp every day. If you PM me I'll see it even if the thread isn't up on my current post list. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 Sounds like a plan! Have to get off work early and hit the shops. I have a decent drill press so the hard parts easy! After all the reading I've done I'm not sure if I saw anything on the rules, or plans for a flare. i could buy one but Id like to make one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(M) Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Im in your same situation, im gonna just experiment for the flare and we'll see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrianroll Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 What bugs me is I know I've seen something about it.....i should start taking notes lol. Called around today...2 stores have parts!! Win! Getting off work early tomorrow to get them. Doing a bathroom remodel at home interferes with my progress though....happy wife is good though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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