eyrian Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Hello everyone. I've been trying to build a forge, and, based on the designs from Hrisoulas, I've come up with an idea for a firepot. The design is illustrated in the attached diagram. I intend to weld it with my oxyacetylene torch. It'll be mounted in the center of a 16ga hearth, framed with 1/8"x1 1/2" angle iron. Does this look reasonable to you folks? Thanks for any feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Biggest problem I see is the size of the air holes. I find that 2 pieces of 1/2 inch material across a 3 inch diameter air opening works for me. BP0518 Making a Forge Pot. The 2 inch diameter air tube used 2 pieces of 1/4 inch rod. BP0133 55 Forge See attached photo. Go to IForgeIron.com > Lessons in Metalworking > Blacksmithing > LB0003 Blacksmithing Forges and > LB0003.0001 Blacksmithing Forges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooseRidge Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 A lot will depend on the size and type of the coal used. The pierced-plate style clog up when you use very small and/or dirty coal (High ash/clinker), the bigger grates have problems with the smaller stuff as well, but mainly because they are falling through the gaps... just my .02 cents worth.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyrian Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 Thanks for the replies. I think I'm pretty flexible about the grate. However, if I'm not doing the drilled-hole style, maybe I could skip out on the expensive plate entirely? Then what would I do about the side holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I use anything from coal fines (dust) to lumps of coal the size of your fist with the grates shown above. Built a fire last night (3 inch air pipe forge) with two sheets of newspaper and a shovel full of dry to maybe dampish coal dust on top. I keep the rest of the coal fines in a bucket of water, dip your hand in, and put a glop of wet coal "mud" on the fire. Low tech but it works for me. How wet? see attached photos BP0384 Using Coal Fines As to the holes, drop a bolt into each hole, or a little mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nett Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Side holes can be stopped with bolts. Carriage bolts, or elevator bolts, would have a lower profile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Carriage or plow bolts work just fine for blocking the bolt holes. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyrian Posted April 11, 2008 Author Share Posted April 11, 2008 Should I weld the bolts in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 Should I weld the bolts in place? That or screw a nut on them. It really isn't critical, these things aren't precision instruments. Now, if you were building a piano, I'd say definitely weld them on. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 I would avoid welding things together, with the differences in heat in different parts, the welds would likely crack at some point. Specifically I am looking at the pipe flange to the brake drum. I have a near identical design and my pipe flange is bolted, with loose drilled holes to prevent binding when it expands, I would go 3 or 4 drill sizes larger than the bolts. If the bolts burn off, you can knock them out and put new ones in, if the welds crack you will have to do a good bit of grinding to get it clean enough to weld. I also would not weld the grate in, I would make it as big as will fit in the drum and just lay it in there, again when it burns out you will have to grind the welds loose to replace it. I have a piece of 1/4" thick stainless screen I use in mine, it is grating of some sort. Stainless steel is less affected by oxidation caused by the fire, 304 SS is the best. Good luck, asking questions like these you will get opinions, my findings are based on the fact I am actually using the setup you have drawn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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