eyrian

How do these results on the ground reconcile with this chart? It seems like prices should've dropped dramatically.

Looks nice. Got an example of a finished piece coming out of it?

Nice. Is it painted? Plated? All-brass?

What is the purpose/use of a bridge anvil? It seems to violate the principle of getting as much steel under the work as possible.

I'm not sure if I'd want to put a torch under external pressure like a vise. However, working with a mounted torch is common in glasswork, and you could probably buy (or forge) a holder to keep the torch in place safely.

Heh. Are you actually using the "55 LBS" ASO as a doorstop?

Thanks for all the advice (and kind words). I'll try and find (or build) some kind of sinking form for the next few attempts. Maybe I'll be able to fill the silverware drawer back up before I'm done...

Wikipedia's article on sundials has the formulae you'll need to find the spacing between the hour lines. Or were you looking for something else?

Unfortunately, there is only open forge time for two-and-a-half-hours a week Thanks for the encouragement!

These are some of my first pieces: a torc I made for a Christmas present, and a spoon I made just a few hours ago. The torc I made in my own forge back home in Maryland. Unfortunately, you can see the spot where I burned it. That's what I get for thinking too much about how I want to finish it while it's still in the fire... I constructed it by twisting two separate rods, then welding the two together with my oxy-acetylene torch. Then, I curled it over the horn of the anvil. The shape needed a bit more refining to get a truly smooth curve, but I was out of time, so... It is finished with paraffin. The spoon I whipped up after discovering the campus forge has open hours (for the first time in years!). It's basically just round rod spread extensively, and raised over a spoon stake. I found this to be difficult, as the edges would always work each other back to flat when pushed too far; I'll have to learn a bit more about proper technique, there. As a result, I had to do a lot of work on the grinder. After I clean it up a bit, I'll probably season it like cast iron, so I can eat with it. Please let me know what you think. Constructive criticism, in particular, would be welcomed.

Pillsbury Coal Co 155 8th Ave NW Glen Burnie, MD 21061 (410) 766-5140‎ $8.75 for a 40 lb bag in low quantities.

That sounds like (vitreous) enameling, specifically champlev

Jose, Unfortunately, Jantz and Texas Knifemaker's Supply only seem to carry nickel silver, which often contains zinc. I don't think you can weld that. Also, OnlineMetals seems to be charging something like $100/lb for their sheet; that seems rather high.

So, I've read (from Hrisoulas) that pure nickel can create some wonderful contrast in pattern-welded billets. However, my local steel supplier doesn't carry any of it, and all the places I can find online seem to sell impure "nickel silver", or charge a lot more than the $5/kg price that it seems to be going for. Does anyone here use nickel? How much are you paying? Where do you get it?

They look beautiful. But could you say a bit more about the finish (product, material)? My books are pretty light around the subject, and the roses look spectacular.

Are they made of brass (bronze?), or is that a finish?

You really should not take signs from people's yards without asking, even if the election is over. Your best bet is just to go door to door, asking if you can have them. Depending on the sign, you may get a more positive reaction if you say you want to recycle them.

I've always used shade 3 protection for smithing; it's dark enough to be easy on the eyes, but you can still see what you're doing with ambient light. Something like this has the nice side-effect of having a regular faceshield underneath so that you can still be protected if you need a closer look.

A couple people here in Storvik have done that. There is nothing about working hot that will affect the legality of the piece; all you need to do is check for the finished thicknesses (which will be easier to maintain when raising hot). Tempering is going to depend on the steel you're using. Since you're only going up against rattan, I expect something tough rather than hard is called for. Mild steel should be adequate for SCA combat. I've seen people use stainless for the low-maintenance, though it's much harder to deal with, and some people can spot the whiter shine (which you may not like if you're into authenticity). I've also seen aluminum, but I know virtually nothing about forging it. I've never heard of a forge-welded face grill, but I've never asked. P.S. There's a Storvik A&S social tonight (Friday) in College Park. I'll be there.

Glenn, I'm not entirely sure about your numbers - isn't 78 a lot more than 1.56% bigger than 50? The hard numbers for a passive chimney are derived from the stack effect, which indicates that air flow will be directly proportional to the cross-section of your pipe (because it's constant pressure). Now, at some point, I think there's going to be a dropoff, as the higher airflow reduces the temperature difference (which is also a factor in increasing flow), as you gradually approach what might as well be working outside . Round is better because it causes less turbulent flow, which causes drag which reduces the flow rate.

So, I finally finished building my forge. Thanks for all the helpful suggestions, guys! I couldn't've done it without you. Take a look Now I just need to get an anvil, some coal, and a proper cross-pien...