brucerdn Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 gentlesmiths; I'm trying to design a new coal forge because i'm not happy with the one I've already built. I was wondering what your thoughts are about size and shapes and depths of firepots. The one I have now is one that I got the sizes from off another site and it doesn't seem to keep the fire where I want it. any thoughts and ideas would be greatly appreciated Buck "If opportunity doesn't knock build a door" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meco3hp Posted November 1, 2005 Share Posted November 1, 2005 Hello, What are the dims of the one you have now? Also, did you look in the blueprint section for the ones that are listed there? I'd measure mine but its just a little too warm right now! :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucerdn Posted November 1, 2005 Author Share Posted November 1, 2005 I'll have to go home and measure to be exact but aporoximatly(mispelled I know but know dictionary handy) 6" x 11" and 2 1/2" deep buck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Do you want it deeper, shallower or what? Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GobblerForge Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Are you making it out of metal or stone. When I made my first stone forge, I used a basketball for a form. I placed it on the inlet pipe and poured the cement up to about one third the hight of the ball. Worked realy well. Just a thought for approximate size. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucerdn Posted November 2, 2005 Author Share Posted November 2, 2005 don't know for sure what I want just looking for ideas and thoughts about sizes shapes and depths. I've looked at the ones posted on the blueprints page and on some of the other websites and was wondering if there was a general on all that thanks again gentlesmiths Buck "if opportunity doesn't knock build a door" ps. I also know that I'm dissatisfied with what I've built and i'd like to try again Buck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 The firepot I use is a round one made from a 1937 banjo rear end axle cover---found two of them modified into jack stands and paid $3 for them at the fleamarket. I ground out the interior flange and bearing and just popped a grate into it. Used it for over 15 years now and still have the other one as a "spare"... Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 An old oxygen cylinder (not acetelyne) makes a great firepot. Cut the top off, leaving an extra couple inches of straight cylinder for extra depth. Use a holesaw and low rpm and cut a 3 inch hole where the valve was. A chunk of 3 inch driveline tube, or 2 1/2 inch pipe will fit in the hole. The one I used was 1 1/8 thick at the valve, should last for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 This brake drum forge is 13" across with a 30" x 30" forge table. The edge has a 1-1/4" lip to contain the coal and coke. To build a fire, it will use half a 5 gallon bucket of coal, with some, on the table. The fire pot on this forge is about 3-3/4" dia and maybe 3" deep. The forge table is flat on top with no lip. All supports are on the under side. It only takes a couple of double handfulls of coal for a fire. It was designed so the "sweet spot" is at the same level as the top of the table. This was for heating the middle sections of long stock for twists. The difference in the two forges is more apparent when you heat say 1/4 x 1-1/2 x 20 inch stock. The small forge will heat just the end for 4" or so. The large forge will heat the whole length of the stock where it is uncomfortable to hold before the end gets to working temperature. . . Examples of pan type forges. The one on the right is 4" deep and is the now famous 55 Forge Blueprint BP0133. I have clayed the 13" brake drum (in the photo above)to change the shape of the firepot and it made a real difference in the type of fire it produced. I have also altered the 55 Forge to a side blast forge configuration and the fire there is very different from the bottom blast configuration. There are many other examples of forges out there that work. Some folks will say go with the "old design cast in iron". That is good to, but realize they used those forges 10 hours a day and worked then hard. The fire was designed to do what they needed done with the type and size metal they used in their shop. Part of the joy is building a forge and then adjusting it to the work you do in your shop. Build a 55 Forge and then add bricks and clay to duplicate the design your considering. Remember that the air inlet needs adjusted, as well as the size and shape of the sides, and the height from the floor to the forge. When you have a forge design you like, either purchase or build something simular from metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meco3hp Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Hello, My "whirlwind" forge pot is 9" long, 8" wide and about 6" deep. Randy McDaniel's book, "A Blacksmithing Primer" has plans for one that is11"x9"x 5 1/2" This is a fabricated one. He also has a forge table plan thats 60"x24" and 34" tall. Just some more info for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Bruce, my first question is going to be " what are your plans in forgings" ? I have an old Champion farmers forge with a shallow indentation (no real pot) that has become my trailer forge. This one is pretty much outta the box standard except that I have added a floor drain cover for a grate to hold the fire. I have plans to modify it but have used it intact for several years (in fact it was my first forge). Stock cast tuyere. I run a Canedy Otto crank blower on it. I stand brick on edge and make an area (sides) for deeper fire. This forge scales a bit more but builds and maintains an incredibly hot fire (coal). Charcoal also works well in this forge. I will post more later on this topic. Have tried to put some pics on my album but got a critical error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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