Forge questions

[Rl69]

I've been reading up on forges 101 and I now have more questions then before I started 

first im a ways off from building a gas forge. I have a solid fuel forge that works good. Albeit I have nothing to compare to. I was using homemade charcoal,and the time to get to forging temps the heat it puts out heat,and how long it takes to put out the fire had me wanting a gas forge for quick projects. I have found a local coal source and found coal much easer to use. I still want a gas forge but it is no longer a priority 

first y'all recommend not using heavy wall pipe?  I have access to all the heavy wall pipe I need. What are the disadvantages of schedule 80 or 40 pipe? 

Next the plan I had was to take a 6" pece of pipe and put a 3 " inside that and cast the void in between with a refractory that I got from a buddy. From what I've read y'all don't believe this is ideal to put it lightly. If I was continue with this plan what would be the pitfalls? 

Lastly for now tell I do some more reading has any on used dixy mortar? I'm not sure the product number right now  

 

[ThomasPowers]

Well the gas forge building workshop I attended used sections of Oxy Welding tanks; pretty heavy walled! Lined with 2" of kaowool and 2 burners. Been using that about 20 years.  I like the heavy wall pipe as I can easily weld  stuff too it---like I did sliding 3rd arms for the front and back.  Bad is it's HEAVY to pick up and move!   Why my cart has good wheels on it!  Why the workshop used it?  A friend had an in with a hydro testing place and we got them *free* only being required to cut the tanks in two before they could leave the property---and they supplied the oxy and acetylene, we just had to bring the regulators hoses and hand piece.

Now your idea will work fine as long as you are willing to pay probably 8 times as much for fuel and willing to wait an hour or two for the forge to come up to heat before using it and willing to use double or more burners. It will probably throw off a lot of heat too and so be a fire risk for hours after you turn it off.   The lining pipe will scale away fast too unless it's made form inconel or other odd alloy.

[Mikey98118]

You are in an enviable position, as it allows you to take your time, and really look closely at the various burner and forge options. While you are looking c-l-o-s-e-l-y at proven plans, go bang your head on the wall every time your mind suggest that you just change this a little and that a little.

[Rl69]

The more I read the less I want a gas forge 

I understand the heat sink what is puzzling to me is why a refractory designed to hold heat in soaks it up? Still learning   

[John in Oly, WA]

I may stand corrected, but I think all the different refractories will soak up heat to some extent. The hard firebrick is about the worst for soaking up the heat, the soft firebrick is nicely insulating and reflects it back well but doesn't stand up to the thermal cycling and will crumble on you, the castables, like kastolite 30, do a good job of not soaking up too much while reflecting it back in to the forge chamber. But a real good way to go is a couple of inches of rigidized ceramic blanket coated with about a 1/2" of kastolite 30, that then has a good wash of matrikote on it. The matrikote will really reflect the heat back into the chamber.

[ThomasPowers]

A refractory doesn't necessarily hold heat in.  Most are just not damaged by heat (as much as other things are) Some are designed as insulating refractories; but you didn't mention what you have as being one of them and as MOST are not insulative we have to go with the odds

I can never understand why people won't provide enough information for others to work from when they are asking others to help them. (Actually I do.  Most people know all the details about what they plan to do and so it doesn't seem like they should have to go into a lot of detail; wouldn't every one else be thinking exactly the same thing? Turns out, No.)

[WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith]

Check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment at the Forge Supplies page on my web site.

You don't need heavy wall pipe, it will only make the forge heavier.  I like using 20# Propane tanks or Freon bottles.  You can cut out the openings in front and back as per the instructions in the attachment.  The wrapped around ends help contain the blanket and casting and makes for a better finished product.

Let me know if I can help you.

Wayne

[jcornell]

1 hour ago, Rl69 said:

The more I read the less I want a gas forge 

I understand the heat sink what is puzzling to me is why a refractory designed to hold heat in soaks it up? Still learning   

The steel doesn't get hot until the entire forge gets hot - so if the refractory is a heat sink, you'll spend 45 minutes to an hour getting the forge hot.  After that, you're in good shape, but that's a lot of propane for the average hobbyist who forges two hours a day on the weekends (if you're lucky).

[DavidF]

Using a setup similar to what Wayne describes, with ceramic wool, Kastolite, and mertikote, all from Wayne, I can get my forge temp up to yellow steel in under ten mins and leave it there. I would follow his forge design and use two of Frosty’s t burner designs. You will definitely reach the level needed with tha set up

[Rl69]

I haven't been able to get any info on the refractory I have. I called the company the person I talked with was less then helpful. The insulator I got the refractory from hasent gotten back back with me with the specifics ( drying cycles and such ) the only thing I know or think I know is it's a industrial refractory used in incinerators.

What I was kicking around a simpel Coffey can forge.two pieces of pipe, castable refractory between the two with a T burner 

i just wanted somthing quick, if I had 30/45 minutes I could go out and bang on some iron. But from what I'm reading fuel consumption and heating time I'm not sure if it's worth it? 

[Rl69]

1 hour ago, WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith said:

Check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment at the Forge Supplies page on my web site.

You don't need heavy wall pipe, it will only make the forge heavier.  I like using 20# Propane tanks or Freon bottles.  You can cut out the openings in front and back as per the instructions in the attachment.  The wrapped around ends help contain the blanket and casting and makes for a better finished product.

Let me know if I can help you.

Wayne

Nice site thank you 

[John in Oly, WA]

4 hours ago, Rl69 said:

What I was kicking around a simpel Coffey can forge.two pieces of pipe, castable refractory between the two

I may be misinterpreting your intent, but you don't want steel (or any metal) as the interior lining of the forge. And if you cast refractory between two pipes, you'll have a heckuva time getting the inner pipe removed to end up with a refractory inner liner. Better to cast refractory between an outer pipe and an inner cardboard tube. Then the cardboard can be burned out.

[Rl69]

I like that idea thanks .