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I Forge Iron

Drifting a hole


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Well gentlemen, I made a couple of punches. My full sized one is from a 1" bar stock that I sized with my milling machine. If I am going to cheat then I must tell you. After my first attempt on a spike I put my second one in my mill and cut a 1/4 in slot a little longer than what I need for the handle.

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Looks pretty good to me. I hope you wrote down the details so when you get to do 5000 meters of that it will be easy to reproduce. One of the big time users on a project like that is figuring out. Then the doing of it seems to go a lot faster once the fixtures and measurements are known.

On thick stock slitting from both sides with a fence so it's even is the norm, any alignement issues can be hidden in the middle. I have some old hammers that show this too.

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TOMPW
I’m looking at your photograph 14:16.
I see where you have drifted and I also see the remnants of what looks to have been a square hole. This may be the result of stretching the eye with the drift in place and not re-drifting with a larger drift or punching with too small-a-hole.
Drifts push and don’t pull for the most part. There need to be some correlation between the size of the initial hole and the final drift.
For example. I make a hammer. The end result is that the eye needs to be 1 1/16 long and 5/8 wide as that matches the handles that I have bought.
I know that I am going to draw the eye (see photo) to get more of a disc shape. I will use the peen for this – with the drift in place. In drawing the eye most of the material will be spread perpendicular to the centerline of the parent bar.
Some, however, will be spread along the axis of the parent bar creating gaps at either end of the drift. I re-drift with a slightly larger drift (from both sides to get the hour-glass shape) to a final size of the handle.
My initial punch is a slot punch (my tool of choice when I am making a hammer eye)
It is 7/8 long and 1/8 wide (the same length as my initial drift). I make this from

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