Glenn Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 When you refurbish or sharpen tig electrodes, does it matter which way they are sharpened, or with different size grits? I mean it is easy to put the electrode on the guard and 90* to the direction of the grinder and spin the electrode. This gives you a series of concentric rings around the taper. The other way is to hold the electrode long ways or parallel to the motion of the grinder so it makes long scratches along the taper. Which is best and why? And does sharpening with a fine grit preform better than sharpening with a course grit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 This will open a pandoras box of opinions. I was taught to sharpen paralell so fire will follow the shaft out to the tip. I know one thing for sure, you should point tip away from the wheel rotation. 100 grit was suggested to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 Yes, I've experimented by rolling them both around the wheel and lengthwise to rotation and the latter makes for a more directed arc - primarily as the amperage decreases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 I know I should have done some research b4 opening my mouth as its been years since I did TIG but I do remember the grind should be parallel with the rod as TH and HW said. However, there is also consideration for the shape of the tip. A sharp tip is not always is not always desirable and is dependent on the material being welded. Can't find a link but some electrodes come with a blunt tapered ball type tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Ink Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 All the boilermakers I know put it in a battery drill and grind parallel with the trigger on,and I like to put a tiny flat spot on the tip for a more consistant and controlable arc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evfreek Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 All good comments above. I learned to point the tip away from the wheel rotation, otherwise it caught and shattered. The fellow at the abrasives store sold me a fine green stone (SiC) which he said most of the local welders used to grind their tungstens. It worked great, but now I am looking for a portable grinder so I don't grind the thoriated electrodes on my shop grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 After an exhausting research session I found this term: Balling; An electrode preparation process in which the tip of the tungsten electrode is formed into a hemispherical ball. This shape is required for AC and DCEP : What is the definition of balling? Also here's another interesting document I found, millerwelds gtawbook.pdf Hope this is useful :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 Fella that taught me also suggested a dedicated wheel ( rock ) might be the way to go ( lessening contamination ). I don't do enough of this to know but I trust my teacher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saintjohnbarleycorn Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 yes, a separate wheel, you could make a diamond one, for not that much. also the red ones are not good to breathe as they are radioactive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saintjohnbarleycorn Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I think the balling is for aluminum. but my tips ball a little on steel too, well to be honest sometimes the ball a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutterbush Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 To have a perfect ground tip on a tungsten as the manufacturers will recommend: 1-Grind longitudinally- so stated by others before me. All good information. Tungsten electrodes are manufactured with the molecular "grain" running end to end, or so one manufacturer has claimed. You grind against the grain if rolled around the grinding wheel at a 90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 Rutterbush, I grinned when I saw your last comment about using a torch to sharpen tungsten. I have done the same, more time than I can count, with "good, in a pinch" results. First saw it done nearly 30yrs ago and thought the guy was off his rocker;)...proves the point "keep your eyes open and your mouth shut" when learning from the oldtimers! One other method of sharpening tungsten is chemically. It will leave a residue on the tungsten but you can carry the stuff in your pocket and point a tip at the work site with nothing but the "Chem-sharp" and you. Personnally, I'm not that crazy about the stuff but have used it and will probably do so again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutterbush Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Thomas Dean, You mean that I'm not the only "crusty old welder" (C.O.W.) who has sharpened a tungsten with a torch? First time I saw that Chem-sharp was at an AWS convention in Hotlanta way back in 1986. I've never used or seen any more since. I did take a pocket full of the sample cans home. I gave them out to other welders who had never seen anything like it. That was kinda like taking a sample of magic back to them. Oh, yeah. Sharpening a tungsten with a torch will leave an oxide coating on the tungsten. Don't let the inspector catch you doing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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