Rutterbush

DANG John. You visit my place once and then you talk about me.

I have nothing to say about the Bulgarian anvil or Old World Anvils (the folks there are great to work with), but I have four of the Two Horn Classic Anvil 110 kg (260 pnd). Three of the four have cracked from far side of face to near side. Two have more than one crack from side to side on the face. They have also spalled in several spots on the faces. Large chunks the size of a 25¢ coin have broken out of the face surface.

WOW! John. Your inner welder is showing through. Great advise. I'm constantly attempting to convince students to NOT purchase that $100.00 battery charger that has welding machine painted on it. Your advise to stay on the leading edge of the puddle is correct. I'm going to add that pulling the wire with the arc following does give better penetration into the base metal. Better penetration is due to the wire/arc directly on the base metal. Pushing the wire with the arc in front actually pushes weld metal under the wire and hinders the penetration. Pushing does give the bead a flatter and better looking shape. Pulling the wire gives a narrower and taller bead.

HWooldridge, Sent you a PM.

Looks as if I need to give a bit more 'splainin'. The school is about 25 miles from Blacksmith Depot, so this is the first place I started to look. First thing I went for was the Peddinghaus, of which, there is a 77#, a 250# and then the largest whatever poundage. This is why I spoke of the 250 pound anvil. I'm not sold on that size. I was giving what I had already seen and not giving it much thought except that I finally have funding and need anvils. Thanks to all of the more thoughtful folk for suggesting the 150 pounder. Personally, I have two 100 pounders that I use at home. Thomas Powers, I was hypnotised by the large face area of the big anvils. More for a student to swing at. Best excuse I have. Bob S, I can't carry a 250 pound anvil in my Masera... Maser...Ferrari. I am not compensating for any short comings by getting large anvils. I submit to the wiser folk. I will persue 150 # anvils or equivelent and may have enough cash left over to get an extra. If there are other suggestions I have not spent my money yet.

Sask Mark, I have two of these fine firepots at the school. They sure are much better than the student built steel firepots. The student built units last about eight months. That means that each welding class gets to fabricate new pots for the next year.

First, I have to say that I am NOT soliciting bids. If I were asking for bids I would contact Glenn first about the subject. Second, to submit a bid the sales rep must be familiar and enrolled in the North Carolina E-Procurement. One of the many hazards when dealing with a state supported school. I have funds to purchase ~ six anvils and ten heavy firepots. Price is the deciding factor on the actual count. Before I decide on which brand and from whom to purchase I would appreciate personal opinions about NEW anvils. I cannot purchase used or needs repair due to the NC E-Procurement. Approximately five years back I purchased four 110 Kg (260 pound) anvils. I will NOT consider that brand again. All four have thumbnail sized divets raised or broken out or a crack from one side to the other on the faces. One of the anvils has three of the divets broken out in the middle of the face. However, the edges are decent and not sevierly chipped. I must state that the supplier was super nice and I did not hold them responsible for an import. I viewed the Ozark Anvil. I like it. The price is the stopper. I've looked at the Peddinghaus at Kayne's. I could get five of the #9 model. I'm attempting to get at least six anvils, as big as possible and keep it under $9000.00, tax, tags, title and shipping. Same thing with the fire pots. I have a cut off at $4000. Not a penny more. When the new smithy is complete I'll have 10 forges, so I need ten coke burning firepots, providing that the funding doesn't suddenly get diverted elsewhere or trimmed down to the size of a Sears lawn mower shed. Your recommendations and the reason why you like whatever will be helpful. Don't be afraid to make a suggestion. All suggestions will be oggled if I can locate them on the internet. Thanks a bunch.

This subject has been touched on in the past. If this has already been posted could someone direct me to it? I don't seem to be able to locate anything on search. The Ryobi $300.00 electric wood splitter could be used as a hot work press. Has anyone used this particular machine for this purpose? Does the machine operate in a vertical position? Is it capable of small work up to ~1"? For the weldors out there, with the proper plunger and die could this be used as a bend test? Please note that I'm curious about the Ryobi wood splitter listed here. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100348561&N=10000003+90401+500809

Tax code... yeah, I agree. Unless a person works with A welding code on a regular basis it can almost be indecipherable. On top of that, the American Welding Society has just stopped publishing an updated code every two years. They had massive complaints about purchasing that $500.00 book for few and minor changes. Plus all of the specifications which are available. The AWS now replaces the book every five years. Best comparison that I can come up with is Englands driving code has everyone driving on the left side of the road. The USA has everyone driving on the right. Italy, hmmm, you hold your breath, close your eyes and go. Every body has their way of doing things. With a little modification to your driving habits you may be able to adapt to Englands driving code and visa versa.Very roughly the same as welding codes. Then there are those who think they know better because they've done it that way for years, kinda like Italy.

Boiler Code will be Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code - Section IX As stated further up in an earlier reply, it may be spelled out in a Welding Specification Procedure, (I've added the following)Procedure Qualification, or a Specification for X-ray interpretation as to what is allowed or not allowed. If the specific job does not have any of the above, then it is generally left to the engineer in charge or a qualified someone he/she may designate.

Hillbillysmith, Metallurgical studies have shown that when a weld bead is deposited the base metal and filler metal blend at an approximate 50/50 mix. Note that I have rounded off to 50%. This number can vary. That is 50% base metal and 50% filler. This could leave 50% that does not blend. If a second bead is welded on top of the first there is another 50/50 blend. If a third bead...it continues everytime a bead is deposited. The blending "can/could" mask the non conforming filler. So, if a 309 or 312 or other stainless designed for welding non matching metals is used to fix a porosity, then the stainless could be overlooked on x-ray. Then there are the x-ray techs who are also qualified weldors and may have a sharper edge than their colleages.

As a weldor, I have done this, but only to ornamental type welds. It fills up the porosity holes and doesn't give too bad of a color match on very small welds. Porosity is a gas bubble which did not escape the molten metal. Trapped gas, usually air/oxygen, creates oxides/scale. This oxide is on the surface layer inside of the porosity. Filling with a stainless filler only covers this oxide layer inside of the porosity. As a CWI, I cannot knowingly allow a weld to be repaired like this. Having tested many weldors and about the same amount of students I have seen the results of welding dissimmilar metals. There are tested and proven welds of carbon steel with stainless steel filler. Of course, these welds were using ER-309, ER-312 or some similar filler which is designed to have compatable chemistry to fully mix with the carbon steel. If the stainless will not become homogenous (mixed/ go into solution)it will tend to tear out under a bend test. I see this time after time when training weldors. I explain that they obviously used a non-compatable filler. When the correct filler is applied to the weldors' next test it usually passes. The X-Ray/Radiagraphs that I've seen can identify something in the weld other than matching filler metal. Anything of differing density will stand out. An X-ray will even show where a different sized stick electrode was used to fill a widening vee groove. Even with matching electrode metal to base metal it will still show a wide bead against smaller beads. This is why, as a CWI, I cannot condone this practice. I should add that if a Welding Procedure Specification is required by the customer it is considered as not being followed by the contractor. This can lead to litigation, law suites, firings, fines, insurance cancelation, hungry children, divorce, etc.

Thomas, That, in all seriousness, will be the next modification that I do to the #6 at the college of welding knowledge. Thanks. My modification was to attach a C-clamp made of 1/2" X 2" plate with a 5/8" bolt on top opposite the handle. This C-clamp attaches over the outer diameter of the wheel instead of threading into the supplied handle holes. I can now move the wheel handle to any position needed. (As seen on another forum.) Let's see... 1-Infinite handle position adjustment. 2-Pipe insulation on the handle to protect against teeth imprinting. 3-Rotating hand grip. 4-Extend the handle lower for the short students. Now if I could see a picture of the counter balance I will have five stolen borrowed modifications. That counter balance may be the modification that my older students who have shoulder problems need.

Clinton, Yeah, putting electrodes on specs or prints as 60XX or 70XX is a standard practice probably everywhere here in the States. When the engineer told me that I was using the wrong rod I thought he was kidding. Kinda stunned me when I realized he was serious about using a 60XX and not the 6010. He really didn't understand that the double X's are just place holders and that the welder can use the electrode they are qualified with as long as it's a 60 series rod. That man was educated beyond his intelligence. Most roofing welders use an E-6022 when speced to 60XX and the 7010 when speced as 70XX. Course they do have a choice if qualified. The AWS has tightened up some of their requirements for CWI. Anyone who thinks they may be interested can check out the requirements here. http://files.aws.org/certification/docs/b5.1-2003-errata.pdf There are also several documents that pertain to the actual CWI testing. http://www.aws.org/w/a/certification/CWI/ Take a look at Part B. That's one of the actual books used for reference during the testing.

Dragon's lair, You sound like you've run into the same inspector that I did. Man complained about my weld and told me how he wanted it welded. I told him I didn't understand his directions and could he demonstrate the weld. As I was offering him the stinger he did an about face and disappeared. On the same note, a good friend of mine has been a CWI for years and he knows enough about welding to keep people from challenging him. He stays with the code which says that an inspector is not there to interpret welding how-to with the weldors. The inspector's job is to make sure that a weld meets or does not meet code. When not acting as a welding educator or hired as a CWI I load the welding machine on the truck and hire out as a contract weldor. I was on a roof welding down the corrogated steel to the trusses when a fellow walked up and indicated that he wanted to speak to me. He introduced himself as the roofing engineer who designed the roof on which I was welding. He politely asked what type of current welding credentials I had. I asked him to walk down to the truck with me and I would let him peruse the requested paperwork. I handed him the folder and he started flipping through the stack. He looked up and asked if there was a certification that I didn't have. Sure, I told him, but I'm working on them. Satisfied with my credentials he changed the subject and asked what type welding rod I was using. I reached into my back pocket and handed him a 6010. He looked at me and announced that it was not the electrode that he had specified on the blueprints. He unrolled his prints and pointed to the specification. Sure enough, I was NOT using the electrode specified. There in big bold letters it stated that the electrode to be used will be an E-60XX. I had an enlightenment for that engineer. Those XX's are place holders. The electrode that he specified could be any number, such as, 6010, 6022, 6024, etc. I even took out the Lincoln electrode catalog to prove it. It didn't matter that he had proved to me that he didn't know welding. What mattered was that he held the position of engineer. He allowed me to go back to welding. I finished the job, got paid and never saw him again.

The AWS D1.1 welding code - steel and the ASME section IX Boiler and Pressure Vessel code state that the welding test must be witnessed. As an AWS certified welding inspector I cannot allow a welder to bring a set of welded test coupons to me for testing. I have no idea who actually welded them. There are those who I have run across who will do such things, but one law suit will cull these out quickly. Generally speaking a company has a WPS welding process specification, PQR process qualification report and each welder must have qualification papers. If you plan to test in an area or process where you hold individual papers it will mean that you are the responsible party to pay for everything. You will need documented test coupons, pay the CWI to witness the welding, do the charpy V-notch test, tensile test, bend test or even a radiograph. You will need deeper pockets that I have. Then, on the otherhand, there are those engineering companies who employ a CWI to maintain the proper records and test individual welders accordingly. These test are referenced back to the paperwork that that CWI has on file. The individual welder is still out of pocket as refered to in the above posts. It will be easier and much less costly to apply for a position and take the hands on practical welding test. Go to the company and ask to speak to someone who can answer your questions about the test before you apply. This way you should be able to answer your own questions about your ability to do the welding. Unless a company requires it for their own files there are no written tests for welders generated by the code setting parties, AWS, ABS, ASME, etc. But of course, there are welding codes for shipping, rail roads, heavy equipment, cars, airplanes, mining, elevators, cranes...I cannot name the full list of welding codes.

With due respect to John Crouchet, if he were charging that price I would expect him to stay for two weeks of instructing me at his expense, then walk and bath the dogs, prepare dinner every night, do the laundry...etc. I appreciate the offer of half price. That's a really "blacksmith" thing to do, but I got a cheap little gift certificate that must be used at amazon.com. It could cover the shipping charges. Since I can't have the DVD I guess I'll go preview KORN cd's. :huh:

I received a gift certificate to AMAZON.COM, so I click on over to hunt for the John Crouchet Fly Press DVD. I found it, but I wasn't ready for the cost. http://www.amazon.com/Fly-Press-John-Crouchet-Dvd/dp/B001IJYTSG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1263671118&sr=8-1-fkmr0 For those of you who must question, this is neither John Crouchet's pricing or Amazon.com.

Being that I'm only a welding educator who does some blacksmithing I'm not qualified to be an engineer. However, looking through the Nook information I see an explaination and drawing that I interpret to show how load/torque could be loaded to one side of the starts/threads. One start, or lead as PTREE names it, obviously loads one side of the shaft. Two starts puts the load/torque on two places each on opposite sides of the shaft. A four start places the load/torque on four equally spaced areas of the shaft. The next thing that I interpret as side loading is when a pully is used. This puts the load on one side (horizontally) of the shaft, which can bend the shaft opening the non loaded side of the threads and closing the load side of the threads. Something like a fly press has linear loading when free wheeling. When it contacts the stop I'm not sure if that would impart a side load or not. Of course, that hundred pounds tends to want to continue even though the ACME screw has stopped. Consider that if it has only one start/ lead/ thread it has that linear load on one side of the shaft. I need to stop. I think I may take away all doubt if I continue. :huh:

Eddie! I knew I could get a response. And a big THANK YOU. Very well stated. Now I have to go turn MY vise on its side and spin the handle cause EDDIE says I can. :blink:

This will, hopefully, help. http://www.nookindustries.com/acme/acmeglossary.cfm Of course, Ed Thomas doesn't need to read it. He uses his vise. :lol:

Stumbled across this. Seems to pull everything together. http://www.abana.org/downloads/controlled_hand_forging/CHF_14.pdf

Had a stonemason request a cutting pein that was hard all the way to the handle. Says the store bought hammers wear out and get short quicker than the old time hammers. He couldn't produce one to show, so I just let him talk. Some of the older hammers had squared faces with a raised cutting edge. As I've heard, to make the hammer, the face was upset or mushroomed, then the mushroomed edge was forged toward the face. This would make a vee shaped stone cutting edge around the outside of the face. The sharp edge of the vee pointing away from the face and toward the stone. A stone could be chipped or cut by tilting the hammer edge to the stone to be cut. These hammers had very little to no hardening. Of course, I expect that they were not made with 1095.

Well, I appreciate every answer. What I asked about was the squared corner. Bend, hit end of one leg of the bar to drive it into the corner to upset, hit the opposite outside of corner to square up, repeat until 1/2" x 1/2" looks like it could have been cut and welded into 90

20 Mule Team is just like what Frosty said, a great fire retardant. When I was on the pipe crew the weldors would soak their denim shirts in Borax water. Don't iron or throw it in the dryer. Soak it, wring it, drip dry. Makes a decent welding jacket. Wrinkled, but fire retardant. Now days the green cloth welding jackets are cheaper than denim shirts, but the borax works on them also.