Ranchmanben Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 5 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: I once traded a Wilton Cadet bullet vise for a 165 pound HB---great trade as both sides though they got the best of the deal! (I had US$ 15 in the vise. and so threw in $100 as boot and still felt guilty!) When you both leave feeling like you're steeling is the best kind of deal. You usually know it's fair when both parties feel like they got screwed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 23 minutes ago, Ranchmanben said: That's a beauty of a bullet vise. Have I seen that on Instagram? Thanks! I didn't post it on Instagram, but I sold it on eBay, so the new owner may have. His wife sent me a note that he wanted to mount it in the kitchen and posted it on Facebook. I replaced the swivel lock with period correct (partial hex) locks after the pics here were taken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 12 hours ago, G-ManBart said: I spend a lot of time running a grinder with various grit flap discs, so I know exactly what you're talking about. When I clean up the "anvil" portion of a bench vise I run through a series of flap discs, and the exact order depends on how bad the marks are. Typically it's something like newer 80 grit, then a worn 80 grit, then a new 120 grit, then a worn 120 grit and then a unitized wheel which is really like compressed scotch-brite on a wheel. I'm planning to do a write-up for the process here sooner or later. Here's a quick before and after of a typical project....not the greatest pics, but gives an idea when looking at the sides of the jaw towers and the "anvil" area. Nice looking vice. What paint did you use? I don't mean this in any negative way because you obviously know exactly what you are doing and what you are aiming for...but your sanding process does illustrate very well what I was trying to say about the difference between the control and the effect of the fresh cut of a new disc and a worn disc under pressure. The "pillowing" or softness around the edges of the frame jaw ends, as indicated by the light reflections on the top edges and shadows below, is typical of the effect of a scotchbrite wheel or a worn sanding disc applied with pressure. The dull disc does not leave a flat surface but "crowns" it because of the pressure which makes it wrap around the job and cut at points of highest pressure...the edges. With a dull disc it is almost impossible to cut evenly and leave flat, the disc (and the physics of pressure with a flexible disc) is in control rather than you. If I was wanting to maintain the flat plane surface of the original jaw end and the crisp joint line with the jaw insert I would have used various grits to remove the marks and a fresh 120 or finer sanding disc (not a flap wheel) as my final process. I would have done this with the inserts in place and the jaws together. If I wanted to lose the resulting arced disc marks, then wet-and-dry wrapped around a baton to leave straight lines. However I would likely use the 120 grit arcs as decoration to mirror or contrast with the curve of the vice frame. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc1 Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Yes, I can see the value of a progressive application of different grit flap disk on the edge of a vice to achieve a perfect polish ... to then whack a red hot 2 inch flat bar with a 3 pound rounding hammer on it ... Oh my. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 hours ago, Alan Evans said: Nice looking vice. What paint did you use? Hi Alan, The paint was RustOleum Hammered Light Blue...often looks more like a silver, but it's definitely blue in person. This is one of those times when the picture wasn't meant for a certain purpose, and fooled your eye. The jaws in the "after" picture are a replacement set that are made slightly wider than the factory jaws. They do that because having the jaws slightly proud of the jaw supports isn't a problem and is better than the reverse. There really isn't any softness, but there's definitely some shadow making it hard to see clearly. I've found that a key to getting a crisp edge with a flap disc or unitized wheel is using the trailing edge of the disc....have it moving away from the edge rather than into the edge. That seems to be more important than new versus worn, and I rarely put much pressure on a grinder. If light/normal pressure isn't working I'm probably using the wrong disc. 57 minutes ago, Marc1 said: Yes, I can see the value of a progressive application of different grit flap disk on the edge of a vice to achieve a perfect polish ... to then whack a red hot 2 inch flat bar with a 3 pound rounding hammer on it ... I hope nobody would whack a red hot 2" flat bar with a 3 pound hammer on a machinist vise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 100% agree with trailing edges, but I still find it easier to keep the surface flat with a fresh (trailed) disc! The paint has a more subtle hammer effect that the ones I have seen or used before...must see if it is available over here. We have the Rustoleum brand but not been aware of their hammer finish paints. Be better for smaller objects than the Hammerite brand ones I have had. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted June 6, 2017 Author Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 hours ago, Alan Evans said: 100% agree with trailing edges, but I still find it easier to keep the surface flat with a fresh (trailed) disc! The paint has a more subtle hammer effect that the ones I have seen or used before...must see if it is available over here. We have the Rustoleum brand but not been aware of their hammer finish paints. Be better for smaller objects than the Hammerite brand ones I have had. Alan Since that vise originally didn't have a hammered finish, I intentionally tried to limit the effect. Thick coats that are almost to the point of running really accentuates the hammered finish, so I went with very light coats and I think it worked out pretty well. If nothing else, the new owner is thrilled with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 5 minutes ago, G-ManBart said: Since that vise originally didn't have a hammered finish, I intentionally tried to limit the effect. Thick coats that are almost to the point of running really accentuates the hammered finish, so I went with very light coats and I think it worked out pretty well. If nothing else, the new owner is thrilled with it! Right, so the light coats emphasised the metal flake rather than the dimples. I have 5litre tin of silver metal flake for paint somewhere from when I was experimenting at one time. I assumed it was Aluminium, so apart from making paint and thermite I can't think how to get rid of it! Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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