blacksmith-450 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Hello, I know sometimes it's frustrating to respond to new people because you never know what they will do with your advice. Recently, I asked about the tuning of the T-Burner and about a forge made of a toolbox. I decided to build the forge with a toolbox but respecting the construction of the T-Burner. You will see the different steps of fabrication. My plans are to double the kaowool on the sides and put a refractory brick at the bottom so as not to wear the wool. Also, I will open the door a little more. I would like your comments on his behavior. I think my burners are still to rich. Thank you for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 My comment would be, move that propane bottle and maybe cut a larger opening for your stock. Can't tell if there is an exhaust opening in the other end but it needs one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 28 minutes ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said: maybe cut a larger opening for your stock. Can't tell if there is an exhaust opening in the other end but it needs one. I'll do both. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I'm told that kiln shelf makes better forge floors than refractory brick. Do you plan to rigidize the kaowool, use a hard refractory layer over the kaowool, or add an IR reflective coating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 Already done ! Ok, I'll forget about the brick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Part II of the toolbox forge. As I was advised, I moved my propane bottle for more safety, checked all the possible gas leaks around the fitting, I enlarged the front hole, I made an exhaust at back, I double the wool on the sides and put a thicker more in the bottom. The kaowool treated with hardener! I am quite happy with the result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 How do you keep from recycling exhaust through your burners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 2 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: How do you keep from recycling exhaust through your burners? I'm sorry Thomas, but my english isn't good enough to understand your question. Can you explain me a little more what you mean please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Hot exhaust gasses rise, if they get drawn into the burners and "recycled" the lower oxygen content in them will increase the Carbon Monoxide content of the exhaust a lot! In a cold climate where there is a tendency to close up a shop in winter this can create lethal amounts of Carbon Monoxide. (GET A CO METER!!!!!!) Putting the burners on the side can help avoid this as hot exhaust gasses rise. Venting the exhaust can help, Making sure that the burners will not be sucking in exhaust gasses can help. Ventilating the shop can help. My hot shop is 20x30 feet with 10 feet walls and a peaked roof with open gables. I still prefer to forge with the 10 foot by 10 foot roll up doors open---unless the wind is blowing over anvils. But I live in a warm climate. I got this way after attending a SOFA meeting during a thunderstorm. They closed one of the sliding doors near the gas forge most of the way and I had a CO headache before the Demo was over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thank you, it's very clear as explanations. I intend to use it only outdoors to avoid for problem of poisoning. I took the pictures inside just to get the flame in the dark and the front door was open... I'm starting out with gas forges, but I'm going to be very careful with the safety rules. Thanks for the tip ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 No problem; I just didn't know if you were aware of the danger. I hate going to estate sales of other Blacksmiths! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Your burners do appear to be running rich though it may be the type refractory making the dragon's breath so orange. How many cubic inches or CCs is the volume? I don't have anything reliable to gauge in the pictures but it looks awfully small for 2 burners. Too many burners can cause them to fight each other causing back pressure. I think I'd put a 1/4 turn ball valve on each burner so I could turn one off unless I really needed a lot of heat. I really like your forge stand it tickles my sense of humor. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksmith-450 Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thanks Frosty. I'll trim the MIG tip a bit. I'm sure the burners are rolling on the rich side again. Very good idea to put one valve per burner. I'll put the T connector down the valves instead of up. The volume is 16.5 x 5.5 x 4.5 = 408 cubic inches. Your advice is very appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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