LDW Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I made this knife from a piece of 1 1/4" cable. Normalized it three times after forging to shape. Did not normalize after grinding but have been told this was necessary. Sanded to a 1000 grit finish, did the file work, hardened in oil that I pre-heated till it was hot to the touch. Brought it back to a 1000 grit finish then grinded the cutting edge into the blade without overheating it. I did not edge quench it I just submerged the blade only, straight down in the oil. There was not a crack till after I etched it in 140 degree F muriatic. While I was hand sanding with 1000 grit to highlight the etching I saw the crack. I am assuming this would not have happened if I would have tempered immediately after hardening. But, I am not sure. any suggestions would be appreciated. The crack is in the curve about an inch from the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 The standing rule is to temper *IMMEDIATELY* after hardening. I had a friend who was working late and hardened a knife but left it on the workbench to temper in the morning. Went down the next morning and it was in 3 pieces just sitting on a rag over night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt993fod Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 There must have been some monumental stresses working in the steel for THAT to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDW Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 I had sharpened this knife prior to etching because I did not want the whole edge a different color. I know not to sharpen prior to hardening. I guess not tempering caused this crack. Do ya'll normalize after grinding? I never have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmercier Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I typically forge my blade, leave it in the forge when I finish to let it aneal, do my grinding, go back to the forge and normalize three times, and then after my last normalizing cycle bring it to tempe and quench it, going straight to my pre-heated toaster-oven tempering station after. Because of the process that I use, yes, I normalize after grinding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDW Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Thanks fella's, I will never make that mistake again. I think I had about 6 hours in that blade. Here is a little better picture of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 LDW, you make a sweet blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Anything left you could make a guard or pommel plate for another knife from? Pretty pattern to toss in the "Oops" drawer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Mayo Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 I agree with Thonas always temper as soon as possible after quenching i have had blade crack along the clay line almost 2" long by leaving over night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Man I'd Still Be Cry'n Like A Girl!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDW Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 We all live and learn, I really appreciate the help. This one was made with that accordian fold I really like that pattern. Time to start over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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