Mystery Anvil

[Bob Stokstad]

The owner of this anvil knows only that it's from his grandfather's farm. He doesn't know the brand, nor the exact weight (thinks it's about a hundred pounds).  It needs repair as a 5" long, 1/2" thick chunk of the face has broken off.  Can you help with the identification of the anvil manufacturer, and any other particulars such as probable weight, quality of construction?  What would be involved (e.g., cost) in repairing the anvil?  Could you suggest a fair value for the anvil as is?  (Location is Oakland, CA).  Full disclosure: I'm a rank beginner in black smithing and am in the market to buy an anvil.  This is the first one I've looked at and have no idea if I want to buy it.  But I would like to know more about the anvil and will communicate what I learn to the owner, a very nice retired gentleman, as it may help him in selling it.   Please look at the 15 photos at http://www.jstokstad.com/Mystery_Anvil/   where you can also see high resolution images by clicking on "view larger image."

Overall length is 27", height is 11.25", flat face is 4" wide x 16"long (including the missing chunk), Hardy hole 1"

Thank you very much!

Bob Stokstad

[Black Frog]

Well half of the face plate is missing as you say, but it looks like you have a Hay-Budden anvil that was made for a hardware chain. Scrub for a serial number on the front foot under the horn!

With dimensions like that I would say around a ballpark weight of 150 pounds.

[ThomasPowers]

Search out and print a copy of the Robb Gunther Anvil Repair method and take it to a local welding shop and see what they would charge to follow it to the letter! If they have a "better idea" of how to do it---flee the premises screaming!

Probably only cost a couple times more than buying an anvil in better shape,  It's lost the most important part of the face, over the sweet spot, where you would do most of your work and all of your heavy work.

For me I'd think of buying it if it was US$50 or less; but then I am notoriously cheap and anviled up from when I lived in central Ohio

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

If you can get it very inexpensively, a fast way to get a new surface would be to use the stand off method of welding a new face on. Space the new plate 3/8'' off of the old surface, then start welding from the center out, alternating from side to side. A chunk of forklift fork, or dozer blade will work for a surface. This will give you a new surface, and it won't cost you an arm and a leg to do. Since this anvil is broken the way it is I wouldn't worry about dumping a ton of money into it since as Thomas noted it will cost more to repair per the "standard approved method" than what you could buy another anvil for. You could be up and forging by the weekend. 

[Mark Ling]

also check the rebound. The color of rust on the anvil around the waste and feet seems to be what the rust looks like on a piece of steel that was in a fire. obviously though rust in different climates, environments, and different places causes different rust, but. Maybe a dumb assumption, but worth checking out.

                                                                                                                          Littleblacksmith

[Bob Stokstad]

Thanks to all of you for your helpful comments.   The owner of the anvil, Ted, has viewed these posts and has pretty much decided to do a repair himself.  He plans to do a mixture of high-carbon steel pieces and hard-facing welding rod, perhaps along the line suggested by BigGunDoctor.  (I estimated that at least 75 lineal feet of 1/8” rod would be needed to replace the missing section of the face - not something for me to try.)   Of course, I’ve suggested that he join this forum.

I’ve begun reading some of the many articles and educational posts here.  It’s a great forum and I’m encouraged by the help I’ve received so far.  Thanks again, Bob Stokstad

[ThomasPowers]

DANGER WILL ROBINSON DANGER!  Your brief description makes it sound like he will NOT be doing it right.  If he does a full weld of an offset HC plate he doesn't need hardfacing rod and most types of hardfacing rod are NOT GOOD FOR ANVILS!  If he will not be doing a full penetration weld then he's botching it.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Correct, no perimeter welds! It should have a full 100% weld to the top surface. Not doing so can create a dead top surface due to the slight gap left under the added plate. 

[Bob Stokstad]

The owner of the anvil has the link to this thread and the benefit of your advice.  That's about all I can say at this point.  Hopefully the anvil will end up in better shape for whatever work is done on it.  Thanks again.