Benjaman Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 What would be the best burner placement for a half round forge like this? I'm not quite sure what the best angle would be. Would you just mount them like it's a full round and get the same swirl effect? I don't think it would work like that but I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS3900 Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Are you using forced air or naturally aspirated burners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjaman Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 2 Naturally aspirated 1 inch burners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 51 minutes ago, Benjaman said: 2 Naturally aspirated 1 inch burners. How much volume is the forge? Rule of thumb says two 1" burners will bring around 1,400 - 1,500 cu" volume to welding temp. I think the popular orientation is about 1/2 way up one side and aimed at the center of the floor. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 the whole point of a "D" shaped forge is to gain more floor space. So, placing the burners to impinge on the near side of the floor is logical in order to take maximum advantage of the space you are trying to heat, while minimizing flame wear on the more delicate walls. Swirl is good, but most guys have an exaggerated idea of what it takes to get flame to swirl in a forge; it wants to swirl, so give it the minimum tilt; not the maximum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjaman Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 22 minutes ago, Frosty said: How much volume is the forge? Rule of thumb says two 1" burners will bring around 1,400 - 1,500 cu" volume to welding temp. I think the popular orientation is about 1/2 way up one side and aimed at the center of the floor. Frosty The Lucky. After the lining and the brick in the floor, if my math is right. It should only be about 550 cubic inches. The last one I built was right around 950 cubic inches, by the way I'm also using the same burners. My other one would come up to heat just fine, but it took it around 20-25 minutes to come up to full heat, the whole idea behind this smaller one was to come up to heat quick, and besides the fact that I wanted a flat easily replaceable floor. Deminsions of just the housing are 13.5 long, 13 wide, 10.5 at the tallest point of the elipse. With a 2 inch lining of inswool, a couple coatings of satanite, ict-100, and the 2 and a half inch firebrick should give me a forge chamber of around 5.5 at the tallest point, 8.5 wide and 13.5 inches long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Two 3/4" burners should do the job fine except it's pretty long so maybe four 1/2" burners if you want an even temperature throughout. However two 1" burners will bring it to heat fast, VERY fast. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJRailRoadTrack Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Personally, I would make your floor firebrick.Then mount your burner in the bottom on the side. It would swirl around your top, Plus, you could interchange tops for different jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjaman Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 1 hour ago, EJRailRoadTrack said: Personally, I would make your floor firebrick.Then mount your burner in the bottom on the side. It would swirl around your top, Plus, you could interchange tops for different jobs. The floor is going to be firebrick. Interchange tops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 I'm not getting a clear picture of what you're saying EJ. would you clarify what you mean by "tops" please? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EJRailRoadTrack Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Sorry Ben and Frosty. I didn't catch that there was floor in the half round forge body shown in the picture. If were to take a propane tank, freon tank, or even a large round pipe, You cut it in half, Very close to what's shown in Ben's picture. Then build a stand with the burner in the bottom and firebricks for a floor. So if smaller things were being forged in it, you could simply turn you burner down and put a smaller "top" on the stand. Forging something smaller or forging several things at once? Grab a larger top and turn your burner up. I would use kaowool coated with uv coating or something similar to insulate the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 An updraft burner, one aimed vertically up through the floor? Teenylittlemetalguy has a screaming HOT little forge in which he mounted the burner this way. I was worried crud would fall into the burner but it hasn't been a problem. You'll do MUCH better to make an insulated forge floor with a hard refractory flame face than using fire brick. Soft fire brick are insulating but they're fragile at heat and can only stand a few thermal cycles before they begin to crumble. Hard fire brick are only slightly better insulation than lime stone and are strong heat sinks which adds up to a floor that takes a LOT of propane to bring to and keep at temperature. It's not a bad idea though I don't know how practical it'd actually turn out. It may be worth the experimenting. A guy never knows. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 A hard flame does do just fine for keeping the burner clear of debris. Holes can be cut in high alumina kiln shelving with carbide encrusted hole saws from Harbor Freight Tools, or formed in high alumina refractory. If the refractory is continued around the rest of the interior as a hot face, burner-up positions work just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.