AZGUY Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 Just took a course at the Mesa Art Center for hammer and axe building. These are my first shot at it. It was a great course and I can't wait to practice what I learned and clean up my technique a little. We started with basic billets and the handles were shaved down from sledge hammer handles. comments and tips welcome Quote
Latticino Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 Looks like you are on the road to making some very fine tools. Have you used them as yet (best test for functional tools)? Is the axe mild steel with a high carbon bit forge welded, or mono steel (and if so what kind)? Up to you, of course, but personally I like to see the axe cheeks drawn down a bit. Of course you will need a cheek plate to finalize your eye in that case. Might consider using a different drift for the axe rather than the same flattened oval you used for the hammer eye. I've certainly done the same, but these days prefer a thinner, wider eye for an axe head (more like a commercial axe eye). Just my personal aesthetics, these look very functional as is. Quote
AZGUY Posted February 13, 2017 Author Posted February 13, 2017 The axe is forge welded. The instructor handled that part. I will be giving it a go on my own this weekend though. I will also be making my own drifts and such I am looking for dimensions now so if you have any advice I would love to hear it. The axe cut and the hammer hammered lol the endurance test will take some time. The eyes are a little off center so I will be working on that also. Lots of practice ahead but it was fun making them. Is a cheek plate like a flatter or is it a different tool? Quote
ThomasPowers Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 I find that it's a good idea to size drifts for easily (cheaply) available handles as carving handles to fit is a task that takes me away from forging. It also allows the end user to replace them as needed on their own. Quote
Latticino Posted February 14, 2017 Posted February 14, 2017 Completely agree with Thomas on sizing for commercially available handles. I have several axes I forged still waiting for handles as I am so slow custom fitting them. Cheek plate is set below the item being drifted once the cheeks are drawn down. Keeps them from being crushed. They can be punched with an opening that will fit a drift. Aspery has details on making them in his second book. I think Brazeal uses some cylindrical supports set around the hardy hole and used under his fullered heads to accomplish the same thing. Quote
AZGUY Posted February 14, 2017 Author Posted February 14, 2017 OK I will search for that. Good idea on the handles too. It took a long time to get the cut off sledge handle sanded down to fit and look even remotely right. I will see if I can find some small axe or hatchet handles to get drift measurements. We only had 2 slits and 2 drifts for both the hammers and axes and I got the point of how it was done anyway. I think the class is new and may still be evolving. Maybe I can give some feedback for different axe and hammer drifts. Quote
Latticino Posted February 14, 2017 Posted February 14, 2017 Here is a view of Brent Bailey's cheek plate (or bolster) and hammer eye drift (on the right). Similar can be made for axes. I think he also sells hammer and axe drifts as well as other amazing quality tools... Quote
AZGUY Posted February 14, 2017 Author Posted February 14, 2017 That doesn't look too hard to make. I just checked out Brent Baileys web site. Great looking tools. I have seen some of his youtube videos too but the name didn't register until I saw his picture. Quote
Benton Frisse Posted February 22, 2017 Posted February 22, 2017 I have Brent Bailey's axe drift. 100% would recommend. Great tool. Quote
Gerald Boggs Posted February 23, 2017 Posted February 23, 2017 Brent Bailey is my go to guy for hammers. I make everything else, but my hammers I get from Brent. Quote
bubba682 Posted February 25, 2017 Posted February 25, 2017 On 2/13/2017 at 11:54 PM, Latticino said: Here is a view of Brent Bailey's cheek plate (or bolster) and hammer eye drift (on the right). Similar can be made for axes. I think he also sells hammer and axe drifts as well as other amazing quality tools... whats his contact # Quote
Latticino Posted February 26, 2017 Posted February 26, 2017 2 hours ago, bubba682 said: whats his contact # 2 second Google inquiry: http://www.brentbaileyforge.com/ Quote
bubba682 Posted February 26, 2017 Posted February 26, 2017 Nice gear i think the shipping cost to Canada would be crazy but i'll give him a call for some drifts to see what the price will be. Quote
Latticino Posted February 26, 2017 Posted February 26, 2017 I think his stuff is very high quality and well worth purchase if you want to get right to hammer or axe making. On the other hand, if you are ready to forge large size stock of that nature, and don't mind making tools, forging a drift for yourself isn't all that difficult. Does go much faster if you have a striker or power hammer though. Quote
bubba682 Posted February 26, 2017 Posted February 26, 2017 I made a power hammer it works good but were I live at its hard to get a lot of good materials and gear everything has to be shipped in if I can't source it locally.It gets expensive quick ,right now the materials I use are car springs and piston Rams.I want to make a hammer drift I just finished a punch and slitter out of an old jack hammer shaft.For me all my visual advice comes from video because there's not to many guys around here that do metalwork with a forge.I know one he's a real blacksmith that has a class but it's to expensive for me so I'll be sticking to trial and error lol Quote
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