Hi, I am getting into blacksmithing, but I need a cheap forge.  My budget is around $50, so I was thinking of making a coffee can forge with plaster of paris and sand. This will be used for small projects like knife making.  Is the plaster of paris + sand combo a reliable mix?  I was also thinking about using clay, but I hear that it's not good in a gas forge.  Is firebrick or kaowool the better route in the long run?

Thanks.

4 minutes ago, triumph99 said:

Hi, I am getting into blacksmithing, but I need a cheap forge.  My budget is around $50, so I was thinking of making a coffee can forge with plaster of paris and sand. This will be used for small projects like knife making.  Is the plaster of paris + sand combo a reliable mix?  I was also thinking about using clay, but I hear that it's not good in a gas forge.  Is firebrick or kaowool the better route in the long run?

Thanks.

Greetings, and Happy New Year! Welcome to IFI!

Okay, let's start the year off right. First of all, go to the "Introduce yourself" page, read the "Read this first" post, and start a new topic to introduce yourself and talk about what you want to do with smithing. 

With that done, rid yourself forever of the idea that PoP and sand are acceptable forge materials. There are dozens and dozens of threads in the Gas Forges section of the Forum, and you will find everything you need to know there -- IF you put in the time to look for it. 

Now, if you are really looking to start smithing on the cheap and are willing to consider solid fuel, look at the "Just a box of dirt" thread in Solid Fuel Forges. It's about the simplest, fastest, and cheapest way to start heating metal, barring a hole in the ground. 

Also, another cheap option for knifemaking is the Tim Lively washtub forge, which you can google. 

7 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Greetings, and Happy New Year! Welcome to IFI!

Okay, let's start the year off right. First of all, go to the "Introduce yourself" page, read the "Read this first" post, and start a new topic to introduce yourself and talk about what you want to do with smithing. 

With that done, rid yourself forever of the idea that PoP and sand are acceptable forge materials. There are dozens and dozens of threads in the Gas Forges section of the Forum, and you will find everything you need to know there -- IF you put in the time to look for it. 

Now, if you are really looking to start smithing on the cheap and are willing to consider solid fuel, look at the "Just a box of dirt" thread in Solid Fuel Forges. It's about the simplest, fastest, and cheapest way to start heating metal, barring a hole in the ground. 

Also, another cheap option for knifemaking is the Tim Lively washtub forge, which you can google. 

Alright I'll check out the box of dirt, do you think wood will burn hot enough to heat up the metal?

2 hours ago, triumph99 said:

Alright I'll check out the box of dirt, do you think wood will burn hot enough to heat up the metal?

Done right, yes, wood can bring steel to forging temps. Do it wrong (too much or not enough air) and the steel will remain too cold.

I'm not sure I even want to go here, but...just because a guy is thinking about going cheap and dirty, why go all the way there? Fiber glass is half way to being ceramic fiber blanket; it is the air pockets in both materials that provide insulation. Because it fails at 1200 instead of 2300 F, it needs to become  the outer layer of insulation, with Perlite glued together with refractory cement at the inner layer. Then a hot face layer of pure refractory cement can become the inner coating.

Small bags of Perlite cost a few dollars at garden centers in large hardware stores.

A 1/2" Frosty "T" burner will heat a coffee-can forge just fine, for about $7, and you're in business: this way will work better and last longer than than sand and piaster of Paris, with a propane canister torch stuck in a hole in the forge's side.

Excellent concept, similar to one I've used with a three layer glass furnace  construction. Just be careful to seal all glass fiber as well since it will break down at that temp to small fiberswhich become airborne. 

Yes, and fiberglass that is run higher than its "use temperature" melts on the spot, rather than just aging more rapidly! But I would rather move out on thin ice, than leave guys with no practical choice at all...

Note that charcoal made from wood has been used to forge iron for over 2000 years----both viking and japanese pattern welded swords were forged using charcoal.  I do not think it has suddenly stopped working.  However I do not like using wood in my charcoal forges. I burn it in a raised fire pit and transfer hot coals over to the forge so I don't have the smoke and flame interfering with my watching the the workpiece.