justvincentf2 Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 This is my first knife made using stock removal. Help me out and give me some feedback on what i could do better. Any ideas on how to fix a guard mechanically without adhesive, so that its a perfect fit? Constructive criticisms, compliments are all welcome, I'd just like to get some ideas of what i did well and what i can do better. 13 inches, total in length 1080 Steel, Forge Oxidized Finish (thought it would look better a little more rugged since it will be undergoing heavy use.) Mora wood scales, finished with boiled linseed oil and minwax clear gloss polyurethane brass hand hammered pins (from brass rods, not premade) and brass guard, hand filed from stock Leather sheath handmade and hand-stitched (not my best stitching work but looking for feedback so) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Solder the guard on with a low temp silver bearing solder. EDM the guard for a perfect fit and heat shrink it in place. To me "heavy use" means a polished surface so it will work with less friction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 The only thing that really stands out to me is that the blade looks like you just pulled it out of the oil. Are you going to sand that off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justvincentf2 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 9 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: Solder the guard on with a low temp silver bearing solder. EDM the guard for a perfect fit and heat shrink it in place. To me "heavy use" means a polished surface so it will work with less friction the polished surface carries a good point. Thanks for the advice. I'll certain solder it when i get the chance. 2 minutes ago, C-1ToolSteel said: The only thing that really stands out to me is that the blade looks like you just pulled it out of the oil. Are you going to sand that off? I figured the coating would prevent it from rusting long term. I thought maybe a polished surface would rust more rapidly, and lose aesthetic value once the tool goes through some use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 8 minutes ago, justvincentf2 said: I figured the coating would prevent it from rusting long term. I thought maybe a polished surface would rust more rapidly, and lose aesthetic value once the tool goes through some use. A forged finish is fairly resistant to rust. However, a mirror finish resists rust somewhat. Either way, did you intend to use the blade and not care for it after use? A blade that is cleaned and dried after use typically will not show signs of rust. Having said that, depending on the leather you used in the sheath, that could have an impact, and certainly moisture trapped in the leather and/or against the blade could also cause rusting issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justvincentf2 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Buzzkill said: A forged finish is fairly resistant to rust. However, a mirror finish resists rust somewhat. Either way, did you intend to use the blade and not care for it after use? A blade that is cleaned and dried after use typically will not show signs of rust. Having said that, depending on the leather you used in the sheath, that could have an impact, and certainly moisture trapped in the leather and/or against the blade could also cause rusting issues. This leather I have used for previous knife sheathes before, and is generally effective for preventing rust on knives. I find what helps is to put a small bit of oil in the sheath (not drench, just a little), and it also helps prevent moisture from entering the leather. Either way, I care for my knives as best I can, although I'm always open to new tips and tricks. Whatever helps is valuable. I just figured the forged finish would fit the theme of the knife, personally. Edited November 18, 2016 by justvincentf2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 That seems kinda like using a table cloth. People don't want to get their beautiful walnut table top dirty, so they put a piece of fabric over it. A less noticeable way to protect against rust is to coat the blade with mustard for 20 min, then wipe it off, and you have a patina. A polished blade will be much more rust resistant than a rough blade. If you oil it every now and then, you shouldn't have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justvincentf2 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 3 minutes ago, C-1ToolSteel said: That seems kinda like using a table cloth. People don't want to get their beautiful walnut table top dirty, so they put a piece of fabric over it. A less noticeable way to protect against rust is to coat the blade with mustard for 20 min, then wipe it off, and you have a patina. A polished blade will be much more rust resistant than a rough blade. If you oil it every now and then, you shouldn't have a problem. I'm still pretty new to all of knifemaking in general so I really do appreciate all the advice. I will greatly consider polishing the surface after I solder the guard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 What ever you do, it's YOUR knife, so don't do anything that YOU don't want to do to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzzkill Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 Polishing the blade will be a lot easier without the guard or handle attached. Soldering the guard is always best without the handle installed. Typically I heat from the tang side and apply solder from the blade side to help make sure I don't overheat the blade and change the temper. It's not the only way to do it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justvincentf2 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 1 minute ago, Buzzkill said: Polishing the blade will be a lot easier without the guard or handle attached. Soldering the guard is always best without the handle installed. Typically I heat from the tang side and apply solder from the blade side to help make sure I don't overheat the blade and change the temper. It's not the only way to do it though. I think I'll leave it as is simply because it would be difficult to remove the pins without damaging the handles, I'll just have to make sure i take care of the exposed blade a bit more meticulously Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 18, 2016 Share Posted November 18, 2016 One thing that might help is a basic book on making blades; things like "Step by step knifemaking", "the $50 knife shop"---Steve Sells has a book out for starting knife makers "Introduction to Knifemaking" and you can ask the author questions here to boot! If you are in the USA your local library should be able to ILL such books and you can figure out which one(s) you want to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubalcain2 Posted November 19, 2016 Share Posted November 19, 2016 fine job. i definitely would clean the blade up, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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