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justvincentf2

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  1. justvincentf2
    Thanks so much, I appreciate the advice and suggestions. My problem with the guard is that i find it incredibly difficult to fit perfectly (which i guess just comes with experience) since its all by hand filing the piece bit by bit. I think the addition of a thicker guard would be a great idea. Also, would making my plunges more crisp simply entail being more careful during the shaping process? or is there another way i can bring them out more efficiently? i actually buffed the handle up to a pretty high shine and then waxed it. the pictures dont do it much justice... and for handle size I started learning knifemaking with much larger blades (as backwards as it may seem) and have gotten smaller over time, and i guess I'm just used to larger handles. they feel more secure to me
  2. justvincentf2
    JHCC -These may be a little bit easier to see on... clearly I'm only a beginner of this art however i was particularly happy with this piece. Daswulf... i've come across those lines on every knife i've made. i shape the knife mainly on the contact wheel of my sander. perhaps that is the cause of those striations on the blade? i've never minded them
  3. justvincentf2
    This knife would be only my fourth attempt at making a knife! I have spent much time learning new tricks and methods since my last knifemaking adventure, and due to some recent inspiration, I had decided to make this knife: 1080 Steel, a stacked leather handle, hand-cut brass guard, and a brass butt-cap(attached by peening the tang). This time, to attach the guard, i soldered it on, so it would most certainly stay secure, and polished the blade to a mirror finish. Also, I finished, sanded, and waxed the leather handle to a moderate shine, and shaped it to be secure but comfortable in the hand. Leather is one hard material to shape from my experience. In addition, i differentially tempered it, and lightly etched it, but the hamon line is only very slightly visible due to the polishing process... my lesson learned with this knife however, was to let the refractory cement cure onto the knife where i want the hamon line, or else it may get scratched off by coal in the forge... What kind of feedback can you guys offer?
  4. justvincentf2
    I think I'll leave it as is simply because it would be difficult to remove the pins without damaging the handles, I'll just have to make sure i take care of the exposed blade a bit more meticulously
  5. justvincentf2
    I'm still pretty new to all of knifemaking in general so I really do appreciate all the advice. I will greatly consider polishing the surface after I solder the guard.
  6. justvincentf2
    This leather I have used for previous knife sheathes before, and is generally effective for preventing rust on knives. I find what helps is to put a small bit of oil in the sheath (not drench, just a little), and it also helps prevent moisture from entering the leather. Either way, I care for my knives as best I can, although I'm always open to new tips and tricks. Whatever helps is valuable. I just figured the forged finish would fit the theme of the knife, personally.
  7. justvincentf2
    the polished surface carries a good point. Thanks for the advice. I'll certain solder it when i get the chance. I figured the coating would prevent it from rusting long term. I thought maybe a polished surface would rust more rapidly, and lose aesthetic value once the tool goes through some use.
  8. justvincentf2
    This is my first knife made using stock removal. Help me out and give me some feedback on what i could do better. Any ideas on how to fix a guard mechanically without adhesive, so that its a perfect fit? Constructive criticisms, compliments are all welcome, I'd just like to get some ideas of what i did well and what i can do better. 13 inches, total in length 1080 Steel, Forge Oxidized Finish (thought it would look better a little more rugged since it will be undergoing heavy use.) Mora wood scales, finished with boiled linseed oil and minwax clear gloss polyurethane brass hand hammered pins (from brass rods, not premade) and brass guard, hand filed from stock Leather sheath handmade and hand-stitched (not my best stitching work but looking for feedback so)
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