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I Forge Iron

Anvil stand/workbench


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Well, I got a nice forklift tine that I am using as an anvil. I've made a workbench and want to incorporate them together because I like to see what I can do, with what I have. My question, before I cut up this tine more than I have to, does it need to be resting on the ground, should I make a wooden spacer between tine and the ground, or will the weight of it resting on a 4x4 (workbench leg) provide the stability it needs? Also, I don't have access to a welder

 

this is how it looks now, just resting on the 4x4 leg. About an inch from a 2x6 I have propped up. 

IMG_0816.JPG

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Are you sure you don't have access to a welder; no friends, family, associates, church members; folks whose services you often use?----(If I needed to get some welding done in my rural New Mexican town I'd ask my Mechanic Who I should talk to.  Note that http://www.marco-borromei.com/fork.html paid US$25 to have their welded to a good piece of steel.  Not an outrageous price and it may be leaf raking time in your area!

Now I will say attaching it to a workbench is a bad idea---every time you strike the anvil the bench is going to get shook and stuff on top of it is going to start falling off soon and the joints of the bench will start working etc

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Good point haha. I may be able to find someone that can weld but that may have to wait until the first of the month. I've alsready gone over my monthly "fun budget".

 

what about scrapping the workbench idea and using the wood I have to make a simple podium style stand? I'm sure that would last until the first, but of course if it *could* last longer, the better

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not having a welder is not the end of your project, I suggest a lot of nuts and bolts. As long as you have a drill with a bit for steel, you can piece together the whole table out of metal. I would also suggest that you have something between the heavy duty bench and the ground to reduce the wear on the ground, even if your bolting it down. I live in a condo so I haven't bolted anything down, I make them all just heavy enough and lay a folded tarp down under each leg along with some cardboard.

A welder is very handy, you can get an electric arc welder for under 100$. Mine is modified to use flux wire instead of argon in consideration of the cost.

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1 hour ago, omegabrock said:

it seems the only place that has any decent rebound is right on the corner. 

That's because rebound isn't governed by mass; it's governed by mass under the hammer. In other words, the deeper the steel directly below where you hit, the more rebound you get (all other things being equal). In your setup as pictured, you only have an inch or so under most of the working surface, and the only real depth of material is under the corner.

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1 hour ago, notownkid said:

I can see you do not aspire to greatness being an elected official.  Budget that is like a speed limit posted but not followed by 95% of the people.

 

Lmao! 

10 hours ago, JHCC said:

That's because rebound isn't governed by mass; it's governed by mass under the hammer. In other words, the deeper the steel directly below where you hit, the more rebound you get (all other things being equal). In your setup as pictured, you only have an inch or so under most of the working surface, and the only real depth of material is under the corner.

I was thinking about cutting a majority of the extra off, leaving enough to make a horn and then flipping it around so it hangs off of the table. 

In theory, that should increase my sweet spot a little huh? If anything, it would limit where I could actually work, keeping my work space limited to the optimal area. 

Im just spitballing, so correct me if I'm wrong. I just don't want to make changes and end up in a worse position I am. 

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1 hour ago, notownkid said:

OK now what is wrong with ODD? Odd is fun keep them guessing.

My college math teacher liked to say that the odd numbers aren't odd --they're just different.

1 hour ago, notownkid said:

JHCC would that be Londonderry VT by chance?

Yep. Woodstock men are worse; Shrewsbury men, worst of all.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not bad. I'd suggest wedging something between the horizontal section of the steel and the top of the wood and also putting more fastenings around the vertical section. You want to reduce any possible flex in the vertical section of the tine, as that will suck up energy that could otherwise be going into rebound.

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Ok definitely something I can do. I ended up breaking down the other table I built for it so I still have about 1/2 of that wood. Maybe add 2 more of those brackets.

 

As it is now, the tine is resting on the ground. Would it be better to keep it there and just fill the gap, or add more height to the stand and actually bring it slightly off of the ground?

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