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I Forge Iron

Morsolum

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    Virginia Beach, Va

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  1. I have some connective tissue issues, so I like what's easiest on the "anything". I had a metals class, but that was rubbish. Cut, solder, Emboss, polish, drill, buff, it was more for the little things like charms and cuffs. I made my first statue, 6', in that class. Teacher only let me because I was done with all the course projects in the second week. Not good on my part, bad on the curriculum. That, I did not know about that grinder, possibly. You could cut it faster than me, or I could ignore the chance of injury (tissue issue) and force the cut through like a maniac (tissue issue strength). Thanks for the responses, helpful. Also, do you sleep??!? Nice response time.
  2. I have an angle grinder too. I am in the US, Virginia beach zone. I grew up with connections in Michigan, so going out and finding them is a little weird for me. Another not about the angle grinder, its broken, presumably during moving homes. Seems jammed, I just don't want to damage it further if I open it up because its one of the old industrial ones from my grandfather, the new ones I have are small and weak. I hate using the saw.
  3. The places I have been calling up say they already have a contract with someone to take care of the scrap. Me needs the advice.
  4. Been working on making tables and workbenches and they kind of crossed over. Was just wondering about other inputs on the subject. Flat bar stock, steel, 1/4" thick, 1.5" wide. Woven in a grid pattern. I clamp down both sides of all horizontal, sharpen a bar end (actual) flat, and push in, I use a lot of clamps to make sure the metal bends in the right places as I move it along. Once I have each piece pulled through all the way, I take the extra bit on both ends and bend them 90, clamp one side and pull the other. make sure to lightly hammer in the bends on the intersections after each pull. I like using a brass hammer with some cloth on the surface after giving them some heat. Once the bars are worked through as far as they will go, they end up about .238" thick and 1.92" wide. I always end up with more thickness on the horizontal bars where they are clamped. I just give them a little extra work until satisfactory. I then smooth and flatten both sides, too (2) many hours. During the flattening the seams will push into each other so I help it out with an electric welder. Mine is rigged to use flux instead of argon. Now that everything is solid and flat, I can cover up all that beautiful work, never to be seen again. Same bars, one side horizontal, and the bottom side vertical. I weld each piece on and then to the next piece joining. None of the extra bar shooting off the side is cut yet. Now through each intersection, I drill, stick a bolt through and weld them in. I leave the bolts in the freezer so I can fit them in oversized for added assurance. The bolts I have are a little bit too short, less than a mm but still notable. I like to use the welder to drip steel over them and work it in. Same as before, keep everything flat and smooth. I then weld the extra steel shooting off the sides together and cut them down in length equal to the width of the 3 layers. Work the extra stuff down and it should just go over the edge and under the whole thing. Weld that baby in and work it all nice and smooth. I tend not to make these circular because that presents issues with accuracy when folding under, possible, just annoying. The corners can be sanded to a better curve. If you wanted this to be your workbench, which I shape mine to 2'x3', you can leave out a bar from the top. Use it as a guide for sliding, and it can be turned into a clamp. bore a hole near the head of the clamp and put a bolt in, tighten the bolt to secure the clamp. Lots of different ways to integrate clamps into the bench by excluding certain bars. I like my clamps. I don't use it, but tool steel is best for the top layer, the one you will be using for work. I also put a lot of work into the legs, but that is another slur of work and less fun. LESS FUN. The bringer of the end of enthusiastic work! I think I need advice on what to put between the table and the ground, folded up drop cloths and layers of cardboards are not cutting it anymore. .....If your wondering why I don't bolt the work bench down it is because I live in a condo. Also, my extensive knowledge ends with extensive, it is not, questions on the ridiculous amounts steel grades/alloys/etc will be seen with confusion. Give me some % of zinc and other stuff to get me in the ballpark at least xD
  5. Not having a welder is not the end of your project, I suggest a lot of nuts and bolts. As long as you have a drill with a bit for steel, you can piece together the whole table out of metal. I would also suggest that you have something between the heavy duty bench and the ground to reduce the wear on the ground, even if your bolting it down. I live in a condo so I haven't bolted anything down, I make them all just heavy enough and lay a folded tarp down under each leg along with some cardboard. A welder is very handy, you can get an electric arc welder for under 100$. Mine is modified to use flux wire instead of argon in consideration of the cost.
  6. I am just starting out with welding, forming, and other such things coming off of carpentry. I do have plenty of experience, but it was all resourced from scrap off a family worksite. I was wondering what kind of place I should go to for metal. I am not sure if I should use a contracting name to acquire pre-cut from a supplier or go to a yard (which I cant seem to find in Virginia beach). a 32"x1.5x.25 of steel is about 15$, not preferable considering how much that would take to craft a weave of 2'x3' for a workbench. I can cut the steel myself if needed, I just need to find a supply on "shorter" budget. Any suggestions anyone? -On a side note Anyone here ever made a table by weaving steel bars and working them flat and smooth, I fold the ends down and under for a nice curved edge. I also bolt the intersections, don't worry, I ALWAYS keep the working surface smooth and flat.
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