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Another weed burner question


JHCC

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Okay, okay, before you even start, I get it: NEVER USE A WEED BURNER FOR FORGING. Wasteful, oxidizing, doesn't handle back-pressure, etc, etc. I got it. I got chewed out for suggesting that over a year ago; you don't have to start in on me all over again! ;)

What I'm wondering is this: has anyone ever used a weed burner minus the burner itself as part of the fuel supply setup for a T-burner or the like? I have an old HF torch that has a long-ish metal tube (which could create some distance from the burner and forge), a built-in needle valve, a "burst" valve on a trigger (which presumably could be used to purge the pressure from the line, once the fire is out), a hose, and all the appropriate connections; could one simply remove the burner and fashion something to connect the rest of the torch assembly to the flare fitting? Seems like a possibility on the face of it, but are there particular reasons that would make this idea a non-starter?

I've looked through the older IFI threads looking for an answer to this, but pretty much everything written about weed burners focuses on reasons not to use them as forge burners. Unless I'm missing something, there's nothing about cannibalizing one for a fuel line assembly. Thanks in advance for indulging my curiosity.

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I have used a number of different "gas handling setups" on propane forges. Everything from store bought propane regulators to used "all fuel gas" acetylene regulators, to turkey fryer regulators---including one that got drug to the fleamarket and so had abraded off the brass fitting and so sold cheap---I replaced the brass fitting with one off a junked gas grill that had the same ID size.

My take is that having a regulator is a big help in running a forge.   Also the gas handling equipment needs to have a large enough ID that it doesn't impact the flow rate.  Finally it needs to be rated for propane.  Other than that I'd give it a try!

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I actually had someone try to talk me into buying one of those burners and some lava rock (sold like mulch at lots of the big home improvement stores around here). Told me how much nicer it would be that using coal or charcoal. Guy had zero experience with forges but just knew it would work. Never wasted the money since I already had a good solid fuel setup. 

Mad far as the question goes, if I'm seeing in my mind the same thing you're trying to describe, I don't know why it wouldn't work as long as you kept your regulator. Of course it also depends on how cheap the steel tubing is that makes up the feed tube. If it's too cheap it might split or tear when you try to flare it. That said, I wouldn't tear up a new one just to find out but would sacrifice one if I had a newer or nicer one laying around as well. 

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This is also the time of year that you start seeing gas grills junked.  Sometimes "fancy" neighborhoods will junk ones in good shape with the propane tank(s)!

Also after Thanksgiving  here in the USA you can sometimes find turkey fryers junked with good fittings for forges...

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 Now, this is interesting. Here is the entire torch assembly:

IMG_1805.JPG

And here is where the stem attaches to the burner. Note that this is a screw connection.

IMG_1806.JPG

And here is the end of the stem unscrewed from the burner:

IMG_1807.JPG

 I have to check the dimensions, but I'm starting to wonder if I could tap the center of the stem for the MIG tip and screw the end of the stem directly into (an appropriately tapped hole in) the T fitting. 

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10 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Have you considered how large a burner you'll have to make to operate with a gas jet that big? If you build one I'd love to see pics of it  running.

Frosty The Lucky.

 This wouldn't be the jet, Frosty.  What I'm wondering is if this could conceivably replace the 1/8" MPT x 1/4" flare fitting. 

(Assuming, of course, that it has enough metal to tap into to hold the MIG tip; I would also need to get a tap that matches its outside threads.)

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I don't know, I'd have to gauge it. I use the correct pilot drill size for the tap as a go, no go, gauge.

The ONLY reasons I use a 1/8" MPT x 1/4" flare fitting being, the ID of the 1/8" side of the fitting is the correct dia to tap though I gauge individual fittings before buying. The 1/4" flare side is so I can hook up to copper tubing and not worry about it getting hot.

This is a check it in your shop situation. Well, unless you want to send it to me and if I ever get around to it I'll let you know.

Frosty The Lucky.

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3 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I don't know, I'd have to gauge it. I use the correct pilot drill size for the tap as a go, no go, gauge.

Good tip; thanks. 

4 minutes ago, Frosty said:

This is a check it in your shop situation. Well, unless you want to send it to me and if I ever get around to it I'll let you know.

Frosty The Lucky.

Or I could bring it round myself.  I haven't been to Alaska in nearly thirty years; it's about time. 

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So, it sounds like I'll need to get a MIG tip, a tap to match, and the appropriate pilot bit. Assuming that all works out, I'll get a tap to match the outside threads, its pilot bit, and the usual pipe fittings. 

(Of course, I'll then have to make a gas forge, but that's project planning for another day.)

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Give me a shout next time you're in the neighborhood we'll get together. Heck if you time it right you can do demos at a club meeting.

I use Tweeko tips and they're 1/4"-28. One of the other guys in the club uses mig contact tips that are metric and I can never remember the pitch. Usually the welding supply will carry taps to chase out the mig guns if the treads get buggered.

Frosty The Lucky.

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5 minutes ago, Frosty said:

I use Tweeko tips and they're 1/4"-28. One of the other guys in the club uses mig contact tips that are metric and I can never remember the pitch. Usually the welding supply will carry taps to chase out the mig guns if the treads get buggered.

Frosty The Lucky.

Good to know; thanks.

9 minutes ago, Frosty said:

 Heck if you time it right you can do demos at a club meeting.

Mostly, I'd demo "What not to do."

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