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I Forge Iron

Please sell me some Stoody 2110 and 1105 or help me find some equivalents


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Hello,

I have an old 160lb Mouse Hole Anvil that I bought with a fairly deep belly that is becoming a little counterproductive to some of my forging. I'd like to fill it and surface it with some Stoody 2110 and 1105.

Does anyone out there have some I can buy or can point me to a source that will sell it in lower quantities or point me to an equivalent? I think I need about 5LB of each, but I can't find it in less than a 10lb pack.

Thanks,
Nick

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That's about the same amount of sway as I have in my own Mousehole, and I've found it easy enough to work around. What kind of work are you doing where you find it counterproductive?

On the other hand, that paint job is a travesty and should have a wire brush taken to it as soon as possible.

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I appreciate the opinions, but I'm still interested in getting some 2110 and 1105 or advice on equivalents. 

That gap is about 1/4 inch and looks like it's about 10 degrees slope to the dip. That's enough to fubar a knife bevel or pit a twist in the blade. I've worked on other anvils that were flat, and I can notice the difference. If I'm not dead center of that dip it will tend to put a little twist into whatever I'm working. Seems to be a pretty common theme with Mouseholes. I'm convinced some of them were built this way. There's another Mousehole locally that looks to have an identical dip, and it looks like it was never used.

I understand it's not that big if a deal, and of course I can work around it like I have been, but if I can fix it for a reasonable price I will.

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you can make a rectangular steel block to be fixed in the hardy hole, as your heel is short and very sturdy you will have enough efficiency  forging on a hardy tool. you can make a long shank (?) to fix the block in the hardy hole, long enough to pass to the other side, so you can cut a slot or make it from a bent over flat steel so you could pass a wedge through it under the heel, so the tool will not bounce/move, instead will be tightly fixed to the anvil. or you can use a bolt, etc. I hope you understand what I mean.

for the money and all the fuss to doubtfully "improve" your anvil you can find a flatter one. use this to make several knives, sell them and soon enough you have the money for a "good one". personally I could forge blades very well on that anvil. as I can see In the pictures the "depression" in the face is right to left not back to front so there's no problem for forging blades. they twist even on the flattest anvil, it's a problem of hammering technique. actually I use slightly dished surfaces to dress the bevels and the entire blade. an easy way to dress the blades is to dress them with a wooden hammer with a wide face and good heft - heat evenly to a red heat and proceed.

 

 

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Do yourself a favour and practice your technique, if you are getting twist or bends in your blades it's you not the anvil. Some of the finest blades (including swords) in history were forged on anvils barely bigger than the hammer, and very rarely would they have been flat and level. Attempting to repair an anvil could well lead to it's distruction if you are inexperienced, and if you need help to find the rods you intend to use I assume you are a novice. There is little wrong with that anvil, most of us use lesser examples without problems. That slight dip is in fact a bonus feature when you are attempting to forge something straight, it's just what you need to take the bend out of a blade!

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just check some videos of professional bladesmiths and you'll find that you have a luxury anvil

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR7E6cx5C6s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqQBf00lBjg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_cGr_BD3kk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8vryQ_68mQ

and here a special bladesmithing anvil as used in Europe by "industrial" bladesmiths:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpeyhC-UIFg

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