forklif tines anvil

[loneronin]

I recovered these two forklift tines heavily damaged. they are 35mm [1,4 inch] thick (maximum), 100mm [4 inch] wide, the vertical piece is 500mm [20 inch] long and the fork is 1.200mm [47 inch] long. the steel should be AISI C45, already hardened.

my plan is to cut them into pieces, overlap, weld them together and make an anvil. a challenge with the tooling at my disposal (115mm angle grinder and welding hobby inverter).

is a good idea?

[Buzzkill]

You may want to read through this thread:

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/19977-finished-fork-lift-tine-anvil-mostly/

The discussion regarding stacking horizontally or vertically may be of interest to you.

 

[Ridgewayforge]

Why complicate it? If you take them, cut them at the bend, then you now have 4 anvils of good size, shape and material .

 

Welding them up is a sure way to take an effective tool and ruin it. 

[JHCC]

You should also check out this thread about making a post vise out of forklift tines. You could easily make one of those and still have plenty of stock left over for post anvils.

[Gorō]

46 minutes ago, Ridgewayforge said:

Why complicate it? If you take them, cut them at the bend, then you now have 4 anvils of good size, shape and material .

 

Welding them up is a sure way to take an effective tool and ruin it. la

I think the reason why he wants to weld them up is for the extra weight and mass.....I personally would use it as a striking anvil or mount it on a stand and use it for knife and blades.

[Frosty]

The problem with thinking the mass of the tines stacked is a good thing it all the joints. Unless the weld penetration is 100% the junctions will reduce effectiveness by stopping the rebound energy. Standing on end the depth of rebound is the entire length under the hammer, 29"-30" in my case. The energy returned to the work by the reflected shock waves from the hammer's blow are more effective the more UNBROKEN steel directly under the blow.

There are several highly effective anvils in that pair, the curled end is pure gold. The only welding I'd do is to a base plate and MAYBE an angle brace if necessary.

Frosty The Lucky.

[loneronin]

thanks for your replies!

yes, Goro is right, my idea was to add some mass under the hammer but it is quite complicate and maybe less effective than cut each fork in two and use the four pieces as 4 anvils... I'll keep the welding in stand-by and try to hammer on the forks cut under the bend... then I'll decide if I really want to weld an anvil.

 

[JHCC]

Check out this link as well, for a simple and effective anvil from a forklift tine.

[loneronin]

On 10/10/2016 at 8:06 PM, Frosty said:

The problem with thinking the mass of the tines stacked is a good thing it all the joints. Unless the weld penetration is 100% the junctions will reduce effectiveness by stopping the rebound energy. Standing on end the depth of rebound is the entire length under the hammer, 29"-30" in my case. The energy returned to the work by the reflected shock waves from the hammer's blow are more effective the more UNBROKEN steel directly under the blow.

There are several highly effective anvils in that pair, the curled end is pure gold. The only welding I'd do is to a base plate and MAYBE an angle brace if necessary.

Frosty The Lucky.

Can you please make a sketch to show me how you would ct and use them?

23 hours ago, JHCC said:

Check out this link as well, for a simple and effective anvil from a forklift tine.

yes, that's perfect but it is way bigger than mine and I don't have that round stock at the end of the tine

[loneronin]

today I cut a piece of one of the forklift. I needed a couple of cutting disks but in the end I succeed. then I grinded the cut. I like it. I need to find the way to 

Today I cut one of the two forks. it took me two discs but in the end I won. then I grinded the cut- I like it. I have to study a way to attach it to the stump. I would like to be able to attach and detach quickly to not let it outdoors.
it would not hurt being able to lay it down in different positions to use the plan or the curve or on its side to use the "hooks" that I could turn into square or polygonal holes to attach various tools or even vertically to have greater mass under the hammer.

 

[JHCC]

Nice chunk of steel. Here's an idea for you:

The most important thing is to get the most mass directly under the hammer blow. Therefore, you want this beastie standing on end. 

If you cut a tall notch in the side of your log, you can stand the tine on end and clamp it in place, rather like the chunk of RR track in this image.

Now, if you cut a groove across the top of your log, you can grind different fuller profiles into the edges of your tine, such as those in the middle image of this IFI comment.

So long as your clamping mechanism is sufficiently rigid in both vertical and horizontal alignments and quick enough in its action, you should be fine.

N.B.: All of this is just my hypothetical ramblings, not the voice of experience. Follow my advice at your own risk!!!