Newbie forge build

[Micah Schulz]

Hey all,

Ive been lurking for a while reading up and looking around. I'm new to blacksmithing and I am just about to start gathering materials for a gas forge build. I've taken a couple classes here and there to see if I could get a feel for it and things have been coming pretty naturally so I figured it's time to get my hands dirty.

I just had a couple questions about a design I've been mulling over, loosely based on a forge I used in a class.

dementions are 10"x10"x10" angle iron and sheet metal box open on opposite ends with 2" ceramic fiber board on the inside on four sides and a kiln shelf on the floor on top of the fiber board. If all that makes sense then I'd have a 6"x6"x10" chamber with a door on one end and a volume of 360 cubic inches. 

My questions are:

Does this design sound like a good setup? 

Assuming the design is good should I consider adding refractory cement, or should it be fine without it as long as the sides don't get wear?

assuming this design would a single high quality burner be sufficient? 

And finally would a nut and bolt construction on the frame cause any concern since I'm not really set up for welding yet? 

Thanks in advance, and I'm located in Raleigh, NC in case anyone is close 

[Latticino]

Overall sounds pretty good.  Response to some of your questions and some suggestions:

1. Make doors on both sides, losses thru the door will be the greatest efficiency loss in your proposed design.  A 6 x 6 opening is huge and will be a major loss of heat.
2. Make sure the fiber board you select is rated to full 2,600 deg. F at least.  There are many types.
3. I would definitely use at least rigidizer, at least, on top of your fiber board.  It will keep it from buckling and keep those nasty short fibers away from your lungs.
4. You might consider a skim coat of refractory cement (build it up in layers, painting on each layer after the rigidizer) or a thin casting of refractory insulation for the inner surface of your forge to add some reinforcement.  Particularly as a new smith you will find that you hit the walls with your stock periodically.  IF nothing else you will need to have something other than the fiber board directly across from the burner outlet.  Outlet temperatures may exceed 3,000 deg. F which will degrade your board.  You can direct the burner down towards the kiln shelf, but then need to be careful after use, when the remaining radiant heat from the forge rises up to the burner location
5. 360 cubic inches is generally thought of as a good size for a starter forge with a single burner.  While you might want to consider upgrade to a multi-port burner in the future (see Frosty's post on this) you can certainly get by with a single (correctly sized) Naturally aspirated or blown (gun) burner for that forge volume with the insulation you indicate.
6. Nut and bolt construction should be fine.  Design to keep the frame cool and you shouldn't have to worry too much about thermal expansion there.  Suggest double nutting any long threaded rod.

[Frosty]

I don't have anything to add to what Latticino says, not really. but me being me . . .

It's a good size to begin with. I suggest you add a 1/2" alumina castable refractory hard inner liner and finish it with a good zirconia based kiln wash. Talk to Wayne Coe for small quantities of high quality products for reasonable $.

A 3/4" T will work a treat or you can try winkling out one of my multi port burners though I recommend you not get fancy for a first forge. KISS is a good thing.

Nut and bolt construction is plenty strong and even better you can take it apart without grinding a bunch of welds if/when you want to modify it. double nuts NOT fiber lock nuts!

I like making a refractory front and rear porch level with the bottom of the openings. The ones on my shop forge are trays that hold split hard fire brick at table level. They are supported on telescoping arms so I can pull them out or push them against the forge floor. On a similar telescoping set up is a helper that extends out to support long work. These things are easy to make and oh so handy.

I like a shelf to hold soft fire brick for doors so you can adjust the opening size and shape to fit the job. If you read up on what Mikey has been saying about the benefits of IR baffles over forge doors you'll get a better handle on why they work better than dedicated "doors". The sliding bricks are more baffles than doors.

I think that's about it for my suggestions without rehashing thing already said. Show us some WIP pics and we'll think of other stuff for you.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Micah Schulz]

Thanks for the advice and quick response, as soon as I get the project underway I'll be sure to snap a couple pictures, but I'm still in the planning phase so it won't be tomorrow or anything but I will show progress when I get going 

[WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith]

Check out the attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com for how I like to build a good, efficient, long lasting forge.

Let me know if I can help you.

Wayne