November 11, 20169 yr Looks like you are doing a Rolls Royce job for that hammer Apologies if you contacted me and communication fell by the wayside. We are a small company and often under resourced when several big industrial jobs land at once ! If you have any questions when you get her fired up you can shoot me a mail at [email protected] and Ill try and help !
November 14, 20169 yr Author The Tee bolts are finished and so are the Tee bolt mounting tube, Next is the form work or boxing assembly which should be less work than the last time but still quite a bit of work. This hammer had better work as i have never seen it go but i cant see why it wont as I believe it hasnt done alot of work as it has little wear. Thanks John for the complement as I said I will be abit mifft if there any major problems
November 14, 20169 yr I don't know if I said it before or not, but it is a good idea to leave the pockets on the ends of the bolt tubes long enough so there is still room if you break a head off a bolt after a while, to get another bolt in there without having to go fishing for the broken off head in the bottom of the pocket. Don't ask me how I know that this is a wise move.
November 16, 20169 yr Author Hi Phil Yes fair comment and there is enough room for a head section to drop down just in case but I think the probable failure point will be at the threaded end but time will tell. Any suggestions for improvement are all noted I am making the boxing for the ineria block now and will be lifting the foot of the hammer by 150mm or 6 inches for a better working height. Thank you Cheers Beaver
November 17, 20169 yr On 10/11/2016 at 10:17 AM, Alan Evans said: Nice job...of course once you have got the hammer in, you will be able to forge the bolts for the next one! You have learned of the advantage of tying on a coffee tin to create a concrete free chamber beneath the Tee-slotted plate so you can get the bolts in and out? This chamber should be deep enough in case the Tee lugs ever did shear off so that you can just leave them in there and still get another bolt into place.... Alan On 14/11/2016 at 8:46 AM, forgemaster said: I don't know if I said it before or not, but it is a good idea to leave the pockets on the ends of the bolt tubes long enough so there is still room if you break a head off a bolt after a while, to get another bolt in there without having to go fishing for the broken off head in the bottom of the pocket. Don't ask me how I know that this is a wise move. What do they say about a wise man learning from his mistakes....and a lucky man learning from the mistakes of others? Mistakes are prevented by learning from experience...experience is gained through making mistakes! Alan
November 25, 20169 yr Author More progress the boxing is almost all done Another big step closer to green button day, though I have been side tracked this week abit by the Burt Munro speed week of the Worlds fastest indian Movie fame . Motor bikes or dirt bikes are my main passion
December 9, 20169 yr Author Well it was amature concreter hour here this morning, Starting to get excited though it will still be about a month until Green button day. It can cure over the xmas break and also poured a 1800x1500 concrete pad around the back of the workshop and the old 50 Cu/Ft air compressor is being evicted from the work shop to a steel garden shed.
December 12, 20169 yr Who doesn't love ametuer concreting hour.......unless it is a bridge. I especially love the working height! As a retired second row forward I can appreciate raising the inertia block up an inch or two. On a serious note, it's looking great! Justin
January 5, 20179 yr Author Im Very pleased I have got the ineria block placed in the hole. Its sitting on 240 mm of oregon timber which should be a good sound/shock deadener
January 6, 20179 yr Congrats on the extraorinarily executed job! Read through the whole thread and it's very informative. I'm really happy to see your process towards your goal. Hopefully everything goes all right and shortly we can see the mounted hammer in work. Bests and keep on! Gergely
January 9, 20179 yr What have you got in the bottom of the hole for padding? It looks like a couple of 2x4s.
January 10, 20179 yr Author Andrew there is 3 8x3 oregon timber blocks at each end so they are 240mm thick in total. The hammer is finally placed permanantlly YIPPIE all thats left to do is mount the motor I am going to remount that and mount it abit more elegantly than what came with the machine. Getting excited its going to be a struggle to do any paying work this week
January 10, 20179 yr How much headroom did you have above the boom when you lifted the hammer over the anvil? I had to make a special hook fitting to go on the end of a Hyab jib to get round a similar problem once. Looking good... Alan
January 10, 20179 yr Author Alan When we were lifting the hammer over the anvil there was about 20mm of room spare, Actually broke off the heat sensor for the alarm system. I got someone with the Manitou because it was close and avilable and cost me a twin carb plate for a weiand 6 71 blower that I was unlikely to ever use but made it a bit tricky because of the goose neck in the boom.
January 12, 20179 yr Author Its alive Im as happy as a dog with two spigots, I just need to fit the guarding put some paint on the motor mount and fix up the dodgy wiring and get a wedge made to hold the bottom anvil block in place that was the only piece I couldnt find when I brought it https://youtu.be/t4sI2vJ208s
January 12, 20179 yr Author https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4sl2vJzo8s The hammer sounds like it may need either the big or small end bearing looked at as one of them is quite knocky
January 12, 20179 yr Great looking hammer and install, thanks for all the nice photos. One more question, what's the round hole in the concrete for?
January 12, 20179 yr Author Andrew The round hole is just a pipe cast through to the bottom as a just in case I get water in the pit and I can drop a small pump down the hole. Can anyone tell me if I need to manually pump the cylinder oil or is the pump just a primer, or after priming will the hammer draw its own oil.
January 13, 20179 yr Nice!! Very well done and I'm really happy to see you got to green-button day Happy smashing! Gergely
January 16, 20179 yr You will need to pump it. Often. As I also said on the face book power hammer page, these things love oil and grease. Make sure you give them heaps of it. We have fitted a grease line going to the little end to all the hammers with slides that have come through our workshop. A few pumps with the grease gun every hour or so when you do another oil round and those bearings will last forever.
January 16, 20179 yr Author Phil Excellent thanks for that I pulled out the pump piston today to fix the bearing clearances thats a good tip about the small end bush though the small end is sort of pressure feed from the air pressure and oil mist . The big end bearing had about 2.5mm clearance and the small end about 1mm so I am resizing the bottom and making a new bush for the small end, the rod seal leaks fairlybadly as well what can you suggest for that, it looks like a graphite impregnated rope seal probably asbestos so will have to be careful removing it I was wondering about a teflon seal in its place.
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