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Diy Forge attempt


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Hi all!

Thanks to the advice given by many good members of this forum I decided to try a small side blast forge.

I found good metal scrap, a round part thick 1\2", good as base. I did air intake from square tube. A broken hairdryer will be the air source, the tube will be at 3" from base.
I built lateral bulkheads from 0,8mm steel, I folded with hammer the edges, not because I wanted to try hammer on anvil, rather because they were sharp.
I'm thinking about making them detechable, in order to facilitate cleaning and to use like barbecue
I post also my diy custard raspberry and strawberries tart :D








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 Hi all!

Small update, not a perfect job, but at least nice to see :D

I make a small grill in stainless, don't remember if 304 or 316, for sausage and other bbq applications (yes I got no barbecue at home, that's my first!)

I found today this fan, it's ok, but I dont know if can be a nice blower, at first sight it has a strong air flow. I'm thinking about a mechanical valve in order to partialize flux, with exhaust...  I got an hairdryer as second choice












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If I may, typicaly we work from the sides of a forge, and even a bottom blast forge will need 4-6" of depth to make a useable heat zone, so a 4-6" ring all the way around, and a wind block of just 4" or so less than 1/2 the  circumspherance will work better, with the open front and no fire pot fuel will fall out on to ground.   

With a side blast you will need somthing like 3-4" above the tuyere opening for the rim. 

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You will want a 4-6 inch fire ball with maybe 4 inches of coal on top of that fire ball. The additional coal insulates the fire and holds in heat down so it gets hotter. Fuel does not make the fire hot, air makes the fire hot. You can over fuel a solid fuel forge with no issues, just be mindful of the amount of air you use.

The fan should work well, If you locate a dryer vent pipe from flexible and expandable metal, you can crimp the end over you air pipe and secure with a radiator clamp (or two joined together). Aim the fan at the other end of the pipe, closer for more air, not as close for less air. The blower and the end of the dryer tubing do not have to be connected, in fact a 3-4 inch gap between the two is ok.

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We are only talking about a ball about the size of your two fists put together. The rest is just fill

It can be coal, as the fire tends not to grow much, but it's much more economical to fill the rest of the pan wit something else. Note clinker will stick to vitrified clay like glue, some clame that cutting it wit sand and ash will stop that but I don't have direct experiance. Sand works but will form clinker. Fly ash (coal ash and clinker is the "classic" fill). 

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Noob question:  should I put some firebrick on the base and lateral in order to define area?

Today I cut a window on lateral side, maybe I should open another one on the other side. I added a front shield, maybe too high. 

I finished the prehistoric valve, ugly but effective, from 0 to max air. I chose this style because it was easier to make, and above all it keeps a perfect cooling of the fan, not overloading.

I will add a front switch to start and stop fan and a "decent" cable


Thank you all for your advice!






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I agree with the others regarding the depth of the forge.  You should fill it to about 2-3 inches below the tuyere.  I would use sand and perhaps fill it a bit lower to start because ash will blend in as well.  This serves two purposes: it works as an insulator to keep the forge cooler (more heat in the heart of your fire) and gives you the flexibility to move the substrate around to shape the fire.  Firebrick would not last long (based on what nice been told) but would work.  Check out this video from Joshua De Lisle, he makes something similar to yours (but adds water cooling) and he uses sand/clay to shape a fire pot that surrounds the tuyere.


On another note....expect to be replacing your tuyere.  It will burn right up in that forge unless it it water cooled.  As long as you have the ability to push the pipe into the fire pot as it is consumed then you are good.  If it is welded in you will find it is a short lived forge.

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Thanks for the link!

i'm beginning to understand now the concept of clinker and the use of sand or clay. 

I'm thinking about tuyere, you're right, it will melt in few time with this high temperature in direct contact. Maybe a sort of exchangeable jet of tuyere can be good, set with a screw or a plug can be good, Could be better to change only a 10cm jet than the whole intake, or maybe use water cooling like video, or a water tank

more food for thought! I need to find fuel and try! :D


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