rendoman Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 HI all! I'm building a leather apron in order to preserve my clothes from sparks, welding and forge ( and maybe because I like this kind of clothing ) I Used a beef leather about 2mm thick, hand sewn with waxed twine. I'm not so expericed with Needles, but I'm trying to do my best. I will add some pocket with cover for small object, and a support for protective glasses Saluti Stefano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wd&mlteach Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Awesome job, sewing finished leather by hand can be tough. I love my leather apron -Leather Forever! When hand stitching leather I use an overstitching wheel and an awl to punch through the leather. I place a block of oak behind the leather as not to dull the awl or stab myself or the table. I also use a Speedy Stitcher as it is great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Sefano, Have you come across a leather sewing tool called a "speedy stitcher" ? They are very handy, helpful, & useful. It makes leather stitching much easier. They cost about $12.00 in the U.S.A. and have several attachable needle types. The tool should last a lifetime if treated with care. SLAG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Hint: put any pockets on the inside, where they won't collect fly ash and other debris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Stitching across the line of strain puts holes like the perforations on a stamp, not the best on high strain areas, stitch the sides of a strap, even rivit it, but don't stitch across it. For your perpose it should servive. Another trick, lacking a stitching wheel use a fork to mark the stich spacing, this will help make even stitches and straiter lines. Also, waxed linen or waxed polly thread can be broken down into 1 or two strands to make it thinner for thinner leather. Also, even tho classic saddle needles are rounded, glovers are sharp, I usualy use glovers needles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rendoman Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Thank you all for your valuable advice! Thanks wd&mlteach , As soon as it opens the leather shop (unfortunately 12 sept) I will buy this overstitching wheel, It's not easy to follow straight paths on soft skin. Your sheath and knife are really well made! Thanks SLAG , I'm watching the Speedy Stitcher tool, it seems good to use, with wooden handle it can withstand pressure, it seems also serviceable to use, I have to search in local shop! Thanks JHCC, I had thought to put a shelter in the pocket, but with fly ash and grind powder maybe it's better to put inside apron, I need to think about putting side pockets maybe, certainly more sheltered from dust Thanks Charles R. Stevens, I will remember next time to not stitch across in high strain area, only sides. It's the first time I see this strange glovers needle, it seems a reamer with big head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culver Creek Hunt Club Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 I know this probably won't help the OP since he is across the pond but it may for some in the States. Don't know if I can post this link here (Mod's please remove if I am not supposed to) but i have used this site before and the prices of the leathers on here are reallllly realllly reasonable. http://store.cyberweld.com/leprcl.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Rendoman, Are you planning on doing a lot of leather sewing? Or will you be doing this current project and, occasionally, other jobs. The suggestions already made, are good and will work. But there are two tools that will make the job much easier. Get a "speedy stitcher" - like leather sewing awl and a leather stitching punch. See, ttps://www.tandyleather.com/en/category/stitching-lacing-tools/3 for an example of one such punch. Using a tracing wheel to mark the leather and an awl, such as a fork, will work, but the job will be tedious, and very slow. The Tandy Leather reference is there for viewing. Tandy is expensive . There should be many leather and tool supply shops in Milan. That city is one of the foremost European centers for clothing and other product design. Glovers needles are really good for sewing fine leather. I would use one for sewing fine thin leather. Or thick cloth, for that matter. The needle resembles a standard sewing needle but the tip is different. The tip comes to a very sharp point but the point is not round It resembles a sharp 3 beveled spear. (somewhat like a bodkin arrow point).The needles usually come in standard needle sizes but they may be made in more robust sizes. The sewing awls's needle will work just as well. With those 2 suggested tools the job will be a breeze. Please post pictures of your finished apron and the stitching methods you use. Bonne chance & ciao, SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 10 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said: Also, even tho classic saddle needles are rounded, glovers are sharp Saddle needles are, I believe, for stitching pieces that already have holes punched for the thread; glover's needles are designed to be pushed through un-punched leather. A speedy-stitcher has a sharpened point and is a LOT easier to push through stiff or thick leather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Saddle stich is much stronger than what a stich-all or speedy- stich will provide. When stitching back to reinforce the ends of a stich glovers needles help open up the tight spaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rendoman Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 Hi! I tried to do my best with anvil and hammer in order to make some buckles, but it's not easy! Aesthetics aside they are good. I did some mistake with length and belts, that's my first time with a leather vest, without pattern it was a bit hard to take at first sight measures. I finished with "stitching stamp" beacuse I started with this, in next works I will avoid to use. I think I will do something else with leather, but always for "little things", for sure I will buy a stitching tools and the special Needles, they seems to me easier to use I think Tomorrow I will make some pocket and glasss support. Saluti Stefano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Thanks for posting your pictures. It looks great for a, I presume, first shot at a leather apron. The next one should take a lot less time. Or any other leather project. SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rendoman Posted August 25, 2016 Author Share Posted August 25, 2016 I just finished my first apron, not a nice done job but at least usable. I tried different lenght, I found that knee lenght is better for my use, very long apron is not so practical to use in kneeling position. I decided to follow an advice to avoid pockets in the front, think about it, the molten iron sparks hurt! maybe it's better to not put pockets I post some pictures of finished apron, I got garage in full disorder, please close one eye I Drew a bad paper with some measure, i'm 1,85m x 90kg, maybe can be useful for someone Saluti Stefano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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