HEAP of JEEP Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Finished this one up today. First attempt at a dog start pattern. Don't think I quite nailed it, but do love how much movement the pattern has. 1080 & 15n20, maple handles. Screwed up on peening the pins too. Don't know what I did to make a couple of them come out so wonky. Guess it really doesn't matter on this one. It was a commission job and the customer loves it, so no biggie, but wish I knew what I did so I don't repeat it in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 Mr. jeep, A steel punch and a ball pein hammer can neatly smoosh the rivet end, next time. Also the void area around the rivet can be hidden (partially/) by mixing a light colored epoxy resin together with maple sawdust resin. The mixture is then worked into the void and allowed to set. I hope that helps. SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPH Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 hello...hope no one minds... did you anneal the pins before you used them? Also did you slightly countersink the pin hole before you placed them? The annealing will allow for a "smoother" pein over with less breaking/splitting/chipping and the counter sink will give some "room" for the brass to "move into" thereby making for a bit more of a secure grip on things... hope this helps.. jph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEAP of JEEP Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 3 minutes ago, JPH said: hello...hope no one minds... did you anneal the pins before you used them? Also did you slightly countersink the pin hole before you placed them? The annealing will allow for a "smoother" pein over with less breaking/splitting/chipping and the counter sink will give some "room" for the brass to "move into" thereby making for a bit more of a secure grip on things... hope this helps.. jph Going back over my steps, and I would bet money that I didn't countersink the holes. That could explain it. I always do, but on this one, I think I blew right past that step. Never tried annealing the brass. Didn't even know it could be done. What temperature does it need to be taken up to? I just use my forge for HT, normalizing, and annealing, and have gotten pretty good with the steels I use, but not sure how I would tell the temp on a piece of brass, being nonmagnetic already. Ill have to look in to it and play around a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted May 15, 2016 Share Posted May 15, 2016 perhaps its time to read through the non ferrous section and find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEAP of JEEP Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 8 minutes ago, Steve Sells said: perhaps its time to read through the non ferrous section and find out As always, a wise sage. Thanks Steve. First place I'm gonna look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted May 16, 2016 Share Posted May 16, 2016 You have progressed very well/quickly! so much different from your beginning knives! amazing! Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris john Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Smick job there like it. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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