Frosty Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Orange: However you can tinker a home made burner into working well is fine. The issue I have with the setup shown is how dangerous it is. You have a LOT of weight hanging off a brass fitting designed to hold a few ounces, maybe a pound and not with that much leverage against it. As it is it won't take much of a brush against the hose to snap it off. Lost all the iron pipe and use a bushing reducer to fit up to the hose directly, the first elbow is more than enough. Do you hit yard, garage, etc. sales? You see tap and die sets for a couple bucks all the time and all you need is a 1/8" tap to make that fitting work for a 1/4" copper tube final supply line. My preference for copper at the burners is the heat over the forge. Even if your's doesn't leak as much high heat out the top as mine it will when you shut it off due to convection, "chimney affect" up the burner tubes. Copper doesn't care but rubber will degrade pretty quickly. I'd recommend stuffing some Kaowool in the air intakes when you shut it down. Sure the long stack of fittings on yours gets the hose out of the way of the heat but it's too vulnerable to a bump. Look at the leverage from a fitting with a max of less than 1/2" stretching to what 8"? That's a 16:1 lever so just an ounce bump is shock loading the fitting with a pound and that's the same leverage advantage a constant load has as well. All that iron and the hose. That is a LOT of stress on a fitting carrying flammable gas. ----------------------------------------- That's a nice transition Monkey forge. You're having trouble finding a 3/4"x1/2" T? It's a darned common fitting around here, plumbing supplies, hardware stores and even the big boxes have them. Where are you looking? On the other hand if that works there's no problem. It might, MIGHT need a slightly different jet length but you have to tune it anyway. Yes? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcornell Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Nice job, MonkeyForge - I didn't have a picture handy, but I know that the pipe nipple usually has a sharp edge (that's more narrow than the rest of the pipe) and the bushing usually has one as well. Files and rotary tools are our friends. A ream that's the size of the pipe nipple (minus the weld) would be good, but usually a ream that large is a bit expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyForge Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Orange: Before you do anything; address Frosty's concerns first. Frosty: it is more the material than the size. Black iron is used less here so it is usually leftovers you find(galvanized you can find a bit more but not much). I could have used brass or coper which are more easily available but I wanted to stick to the plans. I am at or below sea level (in funny country) l, I started out with the mig tip just over half of the air intake and ended up with just a little less then half. jcornell I wanted to just use a ream, hard to get the ones that work for iron and are affordable. To again prove your point :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Galvy is a lot easier to find than black iron here too but vinegar takes care of that concern. Also the burner should NEVER get hot enough to get zinc to burn if you ever look up and your burner is hitting mid to bright orange heat turn it off. I can touch any burner that's running bare handed they're usually not even warm. The ones that are shut off are a different matter. They get hot but not boiling temp unless one is in a chamber being fired then there is flame shooting up it. I either turn it on or block it. My concern with rubber hose to my burners is being that close to the forge itself, the side and partition walls are light fire brick so there are always gaps and always little jets of flame so it's no go territory for rubber within about 10" min. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Yep sorry about that. Believe it or not, and you can call me crazy, but I have read your plans a few times before I asked you. The reason confusion came was becuase the general burner told to use a flare fitting, so I thought that it would work for rubber or copper hosing. Anyways, I should stop talking about other things in someone else's thread and stop confusing anyone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Flare fittings are used on metal tubing only and I specified them for the copper tubing fuel supply line. If you know of another use for a flare fitting please let me know I don't like giving confusing information. I like getting a legitimate correction, I'd much rather be right than think I was. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 Air, brake and hydraulics all use flare fitings, tho they are different angles to keep you from mixing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orange Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 On 3/10/2016 at 10:52 AM, jcornell said: The bushing may or may not have a sharp corner inside - if it does, this kind of messes up the air flow, which is a bad thing. Some filework on the inside of the bushing will go a long way towards improving your flow, which means your burner will work better. I thought about that, you'd think it would be easy to get a T that has various dimensions. My hardware cares alot of items but not that piece. This is a brick building with nothing close to burn if it does catch fire somehow. It's not where I live at all. I am very cautious, but I appreciate the heads up. There is nothing in the building but old mill parts and the insurances won't cover it because it has a wood burner in it. I have tried the forge a few times and its tricky yo light. It wants to burn in the T. If I get the bottom burning and turn the valve off then on, it lights fine. Is that something in my set up or is it the way these burners work. The fitting assembly is supported, maybe you can't see it in the photo but there is no weight on the nozzle that goes into the T-burner. It might be that the i took the photo before attaching the support. Jcornell, I sprayed the inside of the forge with fumed silica and heated the thing. Should it look different after doing that? I haven't noticed a difference. I have to get some more kawool and cover the inside of the door. Its getting hot and needs to be insulated. I truly appreciate all the time and advice you guys have given me. I wish I could do something in return. I posted a note for old bandsaw blades from our resaws. I think they would make decent damask type blade. If anyone wants them, just let me know and I will cut them to the length you want and mail them off to you. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 My hardware store didn't carry the reducing t either becuase those aren't sold as often, so here is no need of carrying a product that sits a while. I got mine at Home Depot, but if you want a really good deal for next time go to this website called essentialhardware.com . I was building myself a coal forge and needed a whole bunch of black iron pipe. Home Depot was going to bring me to a total of $75. That website only costed me $35 for the same pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcornell Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 10 hours ago, orange said: I thought about that, you'd think it would be easy to get a T that has various dimensions. My hardware cares alot of items but not that piece. This is a brick building with nothing close to burn if it does catch fire somehow. It's not where I live at all. I am very cautious, but I appreciate the heads up. There is nothing in the building but old mill parts and the insurances won't cover it because it has a wood burner in it. I have tried the forge a few times and its tricky yo light. It wants to burn in the T. If I get the bottom burning and turn the valve off then on, it lights fine. Is that something in my set up or is it the way these burners work. The fitting assembly is supported, maybe you can't see it in the photo but there is no weight on the nozzle that goes into the T-burner. It might be that the i took the photo before attaching the support. Jcornell, I sprayed the inside of the forge with fumed silica and heated the thing. Should it look different after doing that? I haven't noticed a difference. I have to get some more kawool and cover the inside of the door. Its getting hot and needs to be insulated. I truly appreciate all the time and advice you guys have given me. I wish I could do something in return. I posted a note for old bandsaw blades from our resaws. I think they would make decent damask type blade. If anyone wants them, just let me know and I will cut them to the length you want and mail them off to you. Adam It won't look any different, but it will be stiffer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.