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propane torch burn issue


Green Zombie

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I am in need of some advise. I recently built a 1" propane torch that worked great at first, now I seem to be having an issue with the propane burning inside the tube close to the jet (.035 mig tip) and not at the end of it where it should be. It was before but after some adjustment of fixing a leak I'm now having this issue. here's some photo's of the torch and how it did burn but now flame is burning inside the tube as I said and close to the jet. is there a set point at where the jet should sit maybe to burn properly? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

torch1.JPG

torch2.PNG

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Yes, adjust the jet in or out until you can maintain a burn at the end of the torch.  Make sure it is aiming straight down the pipe and is centered in the venturi.  The sort of mounting arrangement you have used for holding the jet in place is going to make keeping it aimed right and positioned right a bit difficult.

 

 

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4 hours ago, beammeupscotty said:

Yes, adjust the jet in or out until you can maintain a burn at the end of the torch.  Make sure it is aiming straight down the pipe and is centered in the venturi.  The sort of mounting arrangement you have used for holding the jet in place is going to make keeping it aimed right and positioned right a bit difficult.

 

 

Thank you for the reply. I thought that might be the problem as when I soldered the jet and it's seat back in place it was sitting higher than previously when torch was working properly. I will try and post results. 

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On 2/2/2016 at 5:59 PM, JHCC said:

Might not want to point that at those louvres. You could end up with some very undesirable ignition. ;)

LoL I know it looks bad but trust me, It was well away from and other source of combustion. Not sure my insurance would cover that :) 

On 2/1/2016 at 2:43 AM, Green Zombie said:

Thank you for the reply. I thought that might be the problem as when I soldered the jet and it's seat back in place it was sitting higher than previously when torch was working properly. I will try and post results. 

So my problem wasn't the positioning of the jet, it was the jet itself. I went to a .025 from a .035 which was much too big and pushing way to much propane up the tube for this size of torch. I am however going to put an 8" tube on as well rather than the 6" as the torch heats up quite fast and I think a longer tube would help. Thanks for the help. It is much appreciated. Now on to the new melting furnace :)

 

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Your jet is WAY too far down in the works. A properly tuned 1" burner should be running a jet in the 0.040" range give or take 0.005". Though that is a linear so probably 0.035"-0.040" is more realistic.

Who's burner build instructions did you follow or did you just wing it after seeing one on Youtube? There are several sets of good burner constructions directions available but you have to pick One set and FOLLOW the directions.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Green Zombie,

the following will sound harsh; I don't mean it that way, but...No, it is not working fantastically! I can tell this much from your description of the burner as "working great at first", after looking at your photos. The first photo shows a (probably 1/2" pipe size burner (not one inch, unless you have giant sized hands) with a reducer fitting that is too small, on a pipe that is a bit short). That pipe should be nine times the measured inside diameter of the pipe in length if you want proper fuel gas and air mixing. Your photo also shows the flame nozzle out of proper alignment with the mixing tube (pipe) axis; drill and tap three more holes to the rear of the existing three set screw holes, so that you can properly aim the flame nozzle.Also, I don't think you remembered to include a spacer ring at the rear of your flame nozzle; it will never work properly without one.

this advice comes from the guy who invented all those updates to Riel burners that you're trying to employ. Your burner will be "running fantastic" when it produces mostly a single primary flame envelope, without a white combustion envelope behind it (just a clear space), with very little secondary flame, and no third flame envelope at all.

Pipe call-out sizes are smaller than actual outside diameter; they are even smaller than actual inside diameters.

Read the call-out sizes listed on the bins you choose your parts from; don't go by what you see.

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How do you choose the right size of spacer ring? Using schedule #40 pipe, or its tubing equivalent, the spacer ring is the next size up from the pipe you are using as the burner mixing tube. The flame nozzle consists of the next larger pipe size from the spacer ring. You will probably need to do a little filing or power sanding to get the spacer ring to slide freely on the mixing tube, and a little more filing to get the flame nozzle to press-fit over the spacer ring. I would also recommend using stainless steel pipe or tubing for the flame nozzle; not mild steel.

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Hi, it's not really that complicated, I did follow the torch set up as done by King of random in youtube. It's a simple burner for melting silver and gold and aluminum, the air intake has a double cap on the back side to adjust air/fuel mix. It's really pretty simple and not to sound harsh myself but too many make things too complicated when it's quite simple. I attached a photo of it burning now. It'll do just fine for my needs :) 

image.jpg

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22 hours ago, Green Zombie said:

Hi, it's not really that complicated, I did follow the torch set up as done by King of random in youtube. It's a simple burner for melting silver and gold and aluminum, the air intake has a double cap on the back side to adjust air/fuel mix. It's really pretty simple and not to sound harsh myself but too many make things too complicated when it's quite simple. I attached a photo of it burning now. It'll do just fine for my needs :) 

image.jpg

Oh, sorry, This pipe is a 3/4" nipple (Black pipe) and the nozzle is just for the abillity to hold the flame in the open. It will come off when introduced to the melting furnace :)

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Green Zombie, just for your info Mikey98118 and Frosty have years of experience with propane burners and was involved with the development and improvement of this type of burner that King of Random has posted a version of. 

Their suggestions are based on years of experience and experimentation. These burners will "function"within a large range of tolerances with a wide range of results in temperature and efficiency.

An honest mistake I assume. 

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Years of experience or not, the Puritan attitude put forth with snide remarks are uncalled for. I'm not a blacksmith nor a professional in this field and got into building this for fun and to melt a little metal. I've always gone by the KISS Rule of thumb. After all It's not a piano I'm building here but this forum,  or this experience with this part of it anyway, has made it un-fun.  Its ok though, I  appreciate anyone's help butt I'll be moving along respectfully.  To those that enjoy the hobby, good luck and happy burning 

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On 2/11/2016 at 0:32 AM, Green Zombie said:

 

 

On 2/11/2016 at 0:32 AM, Green Zombie said:

Years of experience or not, the Puritan attitude put forth with snide remarks are uncalled for. I'm not a blacksmith nor a professional in this field and got into building this for fun and to melt a little metal. I've always gone by the KISS Rule of thumb. After all It's not a piano I'm building here but this forum,  or this experience with this part of it anyway, has made it un-fun.  Its ok though, I  appreciate anyone's help butt I'll be moving along respectfully.  To those that enjoy the hobby, good luck and happy burning 

 

7 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

Well, no; the KISS principle recommends not over complicating your work plan. You seem to be operating on the much more common MISS principle: which stands for " Make It Stupidly Sloppy."

Well Look who wants to Play "I made a quirky acronym" Here's one for you, SAD, Hope you can figure it out, there's actually two meanings to it but I  expect you and your "years" of experience will be able to solve it. 

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Green Zombie,

Actually, I'm still trying to point out the simple truth to you, but am noticing that while you have accused the rest of us of being "snide," you in fact  are doing all the name calling. Go on ahead and "let it all out." Maybe there is someone left on this thread who hasn't noticed your attitude yet; might as well do a thorough job while your at it

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ianinsa,

It was kind of you to cover for me, but I don't mind admitting that I don't know, or care about, acronyms in general; "Pig Latin" is of no importance to me either; KISS is an acronym that is useful, and so I bother with it, but most acronyms, as used today, are a just another example of slang. 

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On 2/15/2016 at 5:06 AM, Green Zombie said:

 

 

Well Look who wants to Play "I made a quirky acronym" Here's one for you, SAD, Hope you can figure it out, there's actually two meanings to it but I  expect you and your "years" of experience will be able to solve it. 

Mike, Guys: You're getting sucked into this Troll's game. He's just one of those sad people who can't find satisfaction unless it's causing strife. His thread has nothing to do with burners it's just about HIM and a sad SAD attempt to gain attention.

Let's just ignore the foolishness and let him pay his own game by himself. I am.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Actually, There is something of value to be discussed here. If you look at his first photo, you'll see that the threaded reducer fitting is crooked. One of the many reasons threaded reducers were avoided by most builders (dating clear back to Aussie burners), was the steadily deteriorating quality of these mostly imported parts. You can find workarounds for many problems, but a lopsided fitting can only be avoided. Since black pipe is steadily being being marginalized by plastic pipe, choices of good fittings are reduced all the time. It is much better to check the fittings before purchase by threading them onto a pipe nipple, and if you can't find a good reducer, going online to search for a thigh quality stainless steel or heavy wall aluminum reducer fitting, which can be slipped over steel tubing and pinned in place with screws. Press formed (no thread) concentric reducers also have smooth interior surfaces, with superior shape to cheap sand-cast threaded reducers for better laminar flow.

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