JHCC Posted June 7, 2023 Share Posted June 7, 2023 If you leave an electrolyzed surface unprotected, it will rust pretty quickly. I would do the electrolysis, brush off any loose rust or gunk (a handheld wire brush is fine; no need for a wire wheel), and give it a coat of BLO or AFT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shainarue Posted June 9, 2023 Share Posted June 9, 2023 I knew other methods would flash rust (vinegar, grinding) but wasn't sure if the black oxide from electrolysis would prevent it. Thanks for clearing that up. I'll make sure to account for time needed to brush & coat when I get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shainarue Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 So, I've been working on this - slowly but surely - and came to realize last night that I'm pretty sure one of the wheels I thought was done is actually not done. Pretty sure there are bits on there that should move but are not moving. So I was going to let it soak for longer (and make certain to wrap all individual parts) but I had already coated it with BLO. Do I need to remove that before putting it in the electrolysis bath? And if so, how do you remove BLO once it's dried? (Apologies if this is stated on the can. I'm at work and trying to get my projects for the week planned out.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shainarue Posted August 24, 2023 Share Posted August 24, 2023 I dunno if anyone is watching this thread - but just in case, lol I'm starting on fabricating the missing parts. One of those parts is the clinker breaker. The catalog shows it as a slotted ball. I'm thinking I'll cut two circles, cut the slots into them, then dish two sides (so two half-balls) so they form a ball when welded together. My question is: how thick should the metal of this ball be? I've found plenty of threads discussing thickness of the firepot but nothing of the clinker breaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 24, 2023 Share Posted August 24, 2023 That would work if you use thick enough plate to dish the halves so there's enough to grind deep enough slots. I think if I were making one I'd cut a piece of round bar about the right diameter about as long as the blast port in the forge is wide. Then forge it into a more or less ball. The original sides of the round bar would be the minimum draft and the irregularities of the forged sections be the various draft settings and serve as clinker breaker. Probably should drill the handle hole off center so it would have a position the broken clinker could fall through. These are just first blush ideas and need refining to suit. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shainarue Posted August 24, 2023 Share Posted August 24, 2023 After looking more closely, the catalog image with the ball design wouldn't have even been used on the Buffalo No. 0 because it states that it's removeable. The No. 0 is only removeable if you want to take the blower off, lol Actually, now that I'm looking, none of the images really appear conducive with the design of the No. 0. I guess the upside to not being able to find any detailed images of the Buffalo No. 0 that show the inside of the firepot is that I guess I can kinda get away with whatever I want to put there. I'm gradually coming into acceptance that I'm just gonna have to create an air gate / clinker breaker / whatever to block the hole - that works for me and scrap the nonsense of trying to keep it accurate to original parts shown in the catalog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted August 24, 2023 Share Posted August 24, 2023 The forges at ESSA have this style of clinker breaker in them easy to use and should be easy to forge one out of solid stock or schedule 80 iron pipe. In use the handle points down to allow the air blast past then to get rid of clinker & ash just rotate the handle several times. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 24, 2023 Share Posted August 24, 2023 Not removable without dismantling something is pretty much the norm. Bear in mind I've never really removed nor installed a clinker breaker and have only used forges with one a few times. How often do you think you'll need to R&R the clinker breaker? This is YOUR forge follow the Burger King philosophy and Make It Your way. Besides there is no one RIGHT clinker breaker, there were lots and I'll bet plenty of home builds. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shainarue Posted November 14, 2023 Share Posted November 14, 2023 Any one know what these holes are for? I'm thinking surely they're intended for something that fits into them because otherwise That's a big air space and coal hole, lol Pretty sure the blue arrow is where the rod to the clinker breaker comes out. Like like that on the catalog picture anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 14, 2023 Share Posted November 14, 2023 Perhaps the air grate and clinker breaker rested on pins that fit in them? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted November 15, 2023 Share Posted November 15, 2023 I'd also say a round air grate. I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sail’s. Semper Paratus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shainarue Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 I'll go look for some pictures. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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