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I Forge Iron

New Post Vise Flea Market Find


TwistedCustoms

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Dont know about the C yet, I'll check when I go back up to the forge this evening. Does the "C" denote a certain maker? Its a 4" jaw and the acme thread screw is pristine! Ill open it up and take more pics this evening. I dropped it off at the forge and since then Ive been soaking up air conditioning!

 

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unbeveled legs, screwbox with a short back with it wide open, can be indicative of a Columbian  Vise, as is a C on the mounting plate. (though mountings tend to get shared around between vises more than other parts do...)  If it a Columbian it was made in Cleveland Ohio

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Thanks Thomas! I will. I bought it at a flea market in Ms., was told it was bought at auction in Wisconsin. The seller had a whole trailer load of vises, forges, blowers, hammers and more nipping cutters than Ive ever seen in one place! Gave him my number and hoping to hear from him soon on an anvil. He says the area he buys in up there is lousy with Peter Wright and Mousehole anvils. I hope this turns into a good contact!

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Those are square threads not Acme.

 

Looks good.

 

What were his prices like on the forges, and other stuff he had?

Very reasonable for my area. He had a lot of circa 1900 thru 1950 American manufactured stuff, Keenkutter, Bluegrass, Plumb, Stanley, Keystone, Kelly True Temper etc. The one forge and anvil he had in this load were already sold when I got there but based on the 80.00 he wanted for the vise I bought I think his prices were fair. He had a complete post mount, hand crank drill press for 200.00 The feed screw, ratchet system and gears were all clean and working. I'll regret not buying it later but that was my last stop of the day and my budget was already shot. He also had about 20 early Wilton vises, the biggest was a 4" jaw and he wanted 80.00 for it.

    I just saw the 29 degree thread pitch on the ACME. Thanks for the heads-up, I've been missusing that term for some time. Any idea if the square threads are indicative of earlier manufacture or were any post vises ever made with ACME threads?

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1/2" steel plate slotted to accept the lug on the post set into a 3' deep quickrete footing. The 4"x6" post is also in 3' of quickrete. Tomorrow when the CoOp opens I'll be drilling a hole in the base of the post to accept a bolt that will anchor a chain and binder tie down. I plan to build a portable stand for the vise at some point so everything I'm doing now is with a view to being able to remove it quickly. I have one 3" lag bolt holding the mounting plate on for now but lags in end grain wont hold. I may end up forging a strap I can bolt through the post and not use the original mounting plate until I can bolt it to a steel stand. My footing is strong so I'll keep at it till I know I can hammer on it! Work in progress. 

IMG_20150816_152431.jpg

IMG_20150816_155405.jpg

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Nice work.

If you're going to make it so you can swap the vise between stands, I would definitely save the OEM bracket for the other stand.  It's easy work to make a bracket that would work for the vise and not screw into the end grain of the post you have.  Then all you'd have to do is knock out the wedge and gib key and move the vise to the next stand.

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My thought exactly, if that post was a bit higher you could have just bent a strap around the vise and slotted it for the wedges and have it go on back to the sides of the post, (I would probably put in a bolt behind the wedges to keep the strap from getting further apart during use)

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Your set up looks a lot like mine. Right now I've got mine screwed down with a few of the long 3/8" star drive construction lags that I can quickly drive with my impact wrench. The other one I have set up with hanger bolts. The ones that have wood lag screw on one end and machine threads on the other. To remove that vise, all I have to do is spin off the nuts and lift the vise. The threaded studs stay in the wood post. The original idea was to use cast steel hand wheels like big wing nuts, but I've been too lazy so far to either machine them on the lathe, or too cheap to buy premade ones.

 

End grain isn't all that strong, but that's in tension. Your bolts are in shear and hold fairly well that way unless you split the post. I really don't see you pulling out those lags in that application. Forged straps would look cool though.

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