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Working on my Mayer 25lb


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I might be wrong but I think the ram guides are an integral part of the hammer frame casting and the bolts just pinch the two sides together. Check out the pictures of the 25# & 50# Wisconsin hammers at http://www.spaco.org/lgid.htm

This might be who to ask about specifics on the 25# Mayer being discussed.

I'm of limited help, my old style 50 has wrap around guides that are easy greasy to remove.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty, I was finally able to get the ram off.  There was a slight flat spot on the side of the crank plate that allowed me to lift the ram up and away from the guides.  The guides are definitely not removable. 

I agree, the bolts that go thru the ram guides on this Mayer 25lber are there to stiffen the guides. It is one solid bolt that goes thru  both sides, just behind the guides.

i was finally able to cut thru the pins and remove the makeshift toggle links.  Of course, I thought it would now be easy to to continue on at this point.  But, nope, nothing is easy with this hammer. The bolt holes on the back of the ram are almost welded shut.  I am going to have to carefully drill them out. Sheesh. 

Here are some more pics

 

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Like pealing an onion isn't it? Can you drill it out as it sits? Do you have a good drill press and vise?

You might be better off cleaning it up and welding it solid. Drilling through chicken track welds can be a serious PITA. Heck I wouldn't be surprised if Mr. Braze every darned thing used SS rod when he struck an arc. Just because SS is better . . . isn't it? I worked with guys like that, couldn't run a competent bead so they REALLY screwed things up by using ss rod. What Maroons, ultra Maroons!  :angry:

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yay, was able to drill out the 1/2 inch bolt holes for the ram.  And my bushings came in.  They are just a tad too large, but I can turn them down on my lathe.  The flange is also too thick, but I can turn that down on the lathe also.

i attached a pic of the hammer without the ram.  Are the guides supposed to be roughly angled at the top or was this one "customized"?

Also, what is this knob on the crankshaft do? I have turned it a few turns both ways and it doesn't seem to do anything.

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I placed the pitman and arm assembly on the hammer.  When I rotated the crankplate, part of the crankplate face hit the bolt head. I am using a round head bolt and there was just no clearance. I went ahead and machined the bolt head from .23" down to .08".  Now they won't hit the crank plate and possibly cause problems.  Below are pictures of both sides. Notice the flat bolt heads and the minimal clearance. 

 

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Edited by lloe01
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I have the Mayer in a corner of the garage, behind my motorcycles.

There is a front shot of the hammer with the arm assembly on it.  I'm using the bungie cord to keep the coil under a little tension.

the next thing I need to do is get the measurements that Roger needs for the toggle links.

Then grease and oil everything and see how it runs.

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Put a spacer behind the pitman and get it OFF the crank plate. You can see by the way it's hanging in the picture that the link arms are leaning back. You can see how much room there is on the crank before it gets to the lock pin, cotter key. It'll need a washer there but there's plenty of room to put one behind it and move it out a little.

Grinding the heads on the bolts down is acceptable so long as you don't grind them off. The forces exerted on the bolts / pins is in the shear so all the heads and nuts do is retain them in position.

Frosty The Lucky.

Edited by Frosty
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It put quite a bit of space between the bolts and the crankplate. The second photo makes it look like there is no space, but there is. Just a bad angle of the camera. 

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It added some space between the spring and the crankplate too.

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It may just be the way it looks in the pics but it looks like the pitman is leaning back towards the crank plate. Is the hole wallowed out or is it just the bad braze job, maybe on backwards? Will it move on the crank pin?

Put the right length bolts in will ya? The WAY too long ones just scream tangle and kill people hazard. You can buy pins you know and the heads are usually pretty thin. Hey, if I can buy them at 3 different hardware stores in Wasilla Ak. you can surely buy them almost anywhere in the lower 48.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I kinda like the way too long bolts....it is mans way of helping out the darwin theory 

Just last weekend we had a maintenance guy crawl inside a CNC machine while the spindle was turning at an leisurely 10,000 RPM with a 4" shell mill in it....said shell mill grabbed dudes shirt and tore it right off his back , at which point he got some brains and vacated the machine... went off found himself a shirt to wear, had a smoke to calm his nerves after his harrowing encounter returned to finish his job of coolant change and cleaning of the machine crawled back inside.... with spindle still spinning and yelled quite loudly when said spindle decided to tug his ponytail out of head

This dude is one of the few the brave and the trained that has keys to bypass safety interlock systems 

During the post accident report he was asked where he got his secondary shirt from, his reply..." well ever since the first time I lost my shirt this way I always keep a spare in my tool box" honest to god idiot said this 

This same dude somehow managed to set a skidsteer bucket on his foot while he was switching buckets out.... no one can quite figure out how he did it while he was driving the skid steer but darned near ripped his foot off 

Oh and he tipped a forklift on it's side squishing the daylights out of his hand, his explanation.....big gust of wind blew him over

Thank god for the darwin theory otherwise work sure would be boring

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Okay, if that's your pleasure. How about getting some 125lb. steel fishing leader and treble hooks and hanging a couple hooks from the end of each bolt on 10-12" of leader, Swivels would be optional.  Hmmm?

Maybe post fatalgrams where Mr. Two shirts works? You don't have to actually read anything to understand Fatalgrams, pictures and thousands of words and all.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Awe come ON, no ought treble snagging hooks whipping in the wind? Where's the fun in that.

I think the cross head isn't as straight as it should be but it's hard to see in the pics. I'd need to take a look in person to have a good idea of what I'm looking at. It may be nothing, say just the angle you're taking the pics. It can be hard to judge when you're taking pics of multi arm devices, every one is at a different angle and it can disguise their orientation on the plane. Everything from the crank arm, cross head to the hammer guides should be on the same plane. Any lean in or out will not only absorb energy but cause more than normal wear.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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I got a couple of Rod end bolts last Friday.  They have 3/4" eyes and the ram has 1/2" eyes.  I have ordered some 1/2 ID by 3/4 OD bushings to make up the difference. I went ahead and installed everything so I could see what it was going to look like.

 

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Pressed the bushings in and drilled an oil hole in one of the rod ends. Drilled all the way through the bushing, of course. That way the oil gets to the bolt/pin on the ram.  Still have one more rod end to drill and install. 

I stopped for the night. I will drill the other bolt tomorrow night. 

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