Matt.L Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Hello is there a guide available on the internet for annealing and tempering high carbon steel such as 1080 etc and i see people choosing to Temper in an electric Oven but is it possible to do so in a slow cooker mine goes up to 450F thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 have you looked at the information in the heat treating section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 Yes/No/Maybe depending on information you did not provide. Also did you plan to harden the blade before drawing temper on it? If so hardening requires temperatures more than double that of your slow cooker or oven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt.L Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) sorry about that i will try to explain it better as i am also confused myself the most i have done is forge with junk metal etc.i want to buy some flat stock cut my shape out anneal it work on the blade with grinding etc Temper it and then Sharpen it.if im going about that wrong pleas correct me as i am confused on the matter.i have a brick propane forge in my backyard etc i had thought you first anneal, then harden and then temper the blade to a hassle straw color for 2 hoursi found a youtube video that better explains what i want to do i hope this clears up any confusion.youtube(dot)com/watch?v=mQVdqlHta-4remove the (dot) and put a period Edited July 1, 2015 by Matt.L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) Anneal/Normalise, cold work, Normalize several times, Heat to critical and quench in the proper quenchant, draw temper several times, use.Note that the tempering temperature depends TOTALLY on: ALLOY, HARDENING , INTENDED USE and PERSONAL PREFERENCE. Anyone that tells you a specific colour without referring to these is just about as right as telling you the sped limit is 75 mph without specifying *where* and *road conditions*. For example S1 doesn't profit from Normalization! Edited July 1, 2015 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt.L Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 i see that makes sense what do you suggest i do for high carbon steel in this case 1075/1080 high carbon steel also may i ask what website would be good to order some flat stock from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) Might I suggest reading the pined parts of the knife section? Particularly the heatreat sections? It will not only help you frame future questions but also understand the answers. Forging the blade to shape conserves material, takes lakes les time (for a skilled smith) and saves on consumible costs (for a skilled smith) flat stock is ok, just remember as you forge the edge bevels the blade will widen and curve. Edited July 1, 2015 by Charles R. Stevens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnailForge Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 I seem to be missing the critical temperature and quenching part in your explanation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I do belive that is intentinal of us old groutches. I certainly could google the manufatures suggestions as easy as anyone else. But by guiding him to find, or at least atempt to find the information he is seeking we are helping him in the long run. Just a bit more digging on his part and he will nkt inly have the skills he needs to do his own reserch, but he will be on the brink of understanding and we can nudge him over the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 (edited) Without knowing the intended use I can't really say whether just normalization, quenching in brine or quenching in oil is best for that alloy and so no draw temp possible either. I would certainly suggest a different heat treat for a machete than for a razor for instance though both could be forged from the same alloy. Edited July 6, 2015 by ThomasPowers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 If he had read the suggested posts on heat treating and the beginning knife classes he would have his answers already. Seeing how he wont give us any information on what he has done, its pointless. Grumble grumble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Can I quote you on the "Grumble, Grumble" Steve? Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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