Stephen Jones Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 I can't blame TBI, but ADD isn't much better. I would add either 1/2 or 100% sand or grog. About 1/3 clay works real well usualy, the clay as deliverd will tend to crack in amounts over about 1/4", but if you cut it farther, you can put a thin layer of the as deliverd mix, or just put a flower pot in it and fill in around it with sand or cat litter, sure the pot wont last fore erver but if your just a little care full it will last a good wile and is cheep. Ive made forges in big flowerpots, but just as a body, used dirt to fill in to make the fire bowl. That was the first one i made a bucket smelter. Used it to melt aluminium cans but I kept destroying the empty fire extinguishers I used as crucibles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Stephen, admim will remove a link to Fleabay, but that is what we call "stove cement" in the US, its an alumina based cement. I have seen it deluted and mixed with perlight to make a refractory insulation (needs a thin coating of the strait stuff for durability). ony down side is that clinker sticks to it, but it is a way to keep the weight down in a portible setup (tho 1/2 of clay and perlight will do the same, just not as durable) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 That's WAY over kill for lining a fire pot. Garden clay with some sand in it is plenty good enough. Refractory cement will glue itself to the forge pot and be hard to remove when it gets worn. You'll be poking steel into it and scraping it with fire tools to remove stuck clinker. Plain old river clay isn't going to fire into a ceramic so clinker can only stick to the surface and will come right off.I wouldn't use the screed for anything but what it's intended for and that's as a mortar for brick in a fire place. It's not a fire surface layer like a kiln wash. It might work but it's not really appropriate.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 It will partialy vitrafy but not compleatly, the small one i use full of good Okie red dirt looks like a fire pot were it is directly incontact with the coals, but like "fired adobes out west it isnt fully hard like a brick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtforge Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 What I use for my brake drum traveling forge is high temp refractory from a local supplier. I mix it thick, put the cast iron drain grate that I'm going to use in the bottom and trowel it in from the top edge of the brake drum to the edge of the drain grate. I can then replace the drain grate when it burns out. This gives me a more efficient fire. I've been using this way for 18 years and it works as good as my large store bought shop forge. The picture shows a store bought center but I've since went to a cast iron drain grate. Works just as good and is cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desmato Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 "I'm OCD and ADD, everything has to be perfect but not for long." That is me to a T ! Charles, you keep using the word "grog" but I can't figure out what that means, other than a sand like additive ...... I also am re-claying my pots for different size/shape fires. I was using straight clay from the yard in the past and it always shrinks too much for my liking and lifespan. I now see in this post that you suggest a 1/3 clay - 2/3 sand mix and also say "source some waterglass (sodium silicate) and use that to wet the clay and grog" Is this in addition to the sand & clay ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Grog is grount up vitrified clay, it has the same heat and expansion properties as the unfired clay, exept it dosnt expand when wet. Makes a better ceramic and uses up your failers. Waterglass is sodium silicate, it comes as a liquid. Of you buy powderd clay, (fire clay) and mix it with sand use the waterglass to wet it, then case it (place it in a coverd container and let the moisture even out) if it's to wet leave the lid off till its the right consistancy, then case. Most any clay is fine for this, koloen, fire clay, kity litter, the stuff from your yard...a third clay is rich, sand and/or grog helps control the cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desmato Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Thanks Charles ! (You to Frosty) This would make a great sticky ! A formula and "how to" for clay liners that all can easily find without searching. I know I've been reading/searching through posts for a year trying to find the top secret recipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Just paying it forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.