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I Forge Iron

harbor freight anvil design changes


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so i went to harbor freight to pick me up a small anvil for small projects (and first TRUE anvil) however i didn't walk out with an anvil. mainly for the fact the design has changed.

item#03999 is no longer stocked. (traditional style with full horn) 

instead we get a slightly larger version with a cut-off horn Item#69425...  SERIOUSLY!?!  i am disappoint HF

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I really wouldn't bother with a harbor freight anvil. They may claim cast iron for the jewelers anvil but it is softer then copper. So a piece of scrap steel can actually be better then their anvil. I have good larger anvils, but I would use scrap before buying a harbor freight larger anvil. I do have one of their small jewelers anvils, if I don't want the jewelry marked up from imprinting from the anvil I use a piece of scrap steel with a clean face. I have used it for copper and a little silver work. The tools used are case hardened mild steel hammers without missed blows. The harbor freight jewelers anvil got marked up from tapping on copper for the most part. Lightly. They really are not worth the effort in my opinion, based on my experience. Others of course have the right to their opinions too.

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It has been about 15 years since Horrible Fright stocked a real anvil, a 110 pound Russian import cast steel anvil, the rest are just ASO's. They can be identified by the hardy hole being turned 45 degrees to a diamond configuration.

Edited by John McPherson
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It was more like 5 years ago. I had one and the face was extremely soft if you forged you iron a little to cold or straightened something cold it would dent the face. Any errant hammer blow was certain to leave a mark. When they originally started selling the Russian anvils the hardy was not at a 45 but 90 like a regular anvil.

I would agree with the Rashelle on the cast iron one, your money would be better spent finding a large chunk of mild steel or a large fork lift tine.

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That is actually the exact Anvil I have at the moment, Purchased due to its relative cheap price. 

Cannot use the edges for shaping as the crap metal will split when you attempt to do so, Using the " horn " for any kind of shaping results in the blue coating producing NASTY fumes ( buying and taking a wire wheel to it this weekend to solve that, but I expect it to split or snap off this weekend also from use ) . and the Hardy hole on first appearance appears straight, but its VERY poorly done and in order to use anything I had to take a file to it and square it up the entire length of the hole.

But, for 20 bucks, and being easily 3 times the size of the Anvil I started with back in January, It was well worth the money, being the newb that I am, I would much prefer to make my mistakes that damage one of the most important tools of the trade on a piece of 20 dollar HF junk, then on some nice expensive 100+ lb anvil worth owning. 

As my skills improve and I start to make some money off this project, I fully intend to buy or make a good anvil, but for the moment, Im gunna just pound away at this thing till it breaks.

As for marking the face, Yes, even light taps mark the face of it, I have decided in the interim, I will cut a piece of 1/2 inch steel plate to slightly overlap the existing face, as then I can toss the plate in the fire to preheat to lessen the heat loss when doing things such as forge welding. 

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If you are able to find one of the original 110# Russian made anvils, just an FYI. They are, from what I have read, cast from a fairly decent steel. They just never got heat treated. However, also from what I've read, they are therefore, heat treatable or open to hard-facing. It may or may not be cost effective, but (again), I have read, folks have done both, successfully. I wish I had bought one when they were available ;)

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