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I Forge Iron

First knife, first steel?


Revtor

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Hey guys, I'm finally going to get out there and forge a few knives (attempt it at least).  I have some mild steel to play around with so I can get my shapes right, but after that I want to use something good that will harden up and also be semi-corrosion-resistant. (Not full stainless in other words)

 

The kinfe is going to be a small EDC type, 3" blade, I will be forging it.

 

So my question is what would you recommend as a forgiving steel that is a bit more corrosion resistant than the average carbon steel? 

 

thanks a lot, hope to post some pics in the coming weeks.

 

~Steve

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First thing I will suggest is that you "play around with" a medium to high carbon steel.

They work differently than mild steel and so you are training your "habits" on something with different properties. Sort of like training yourself for mudbogging by driving only on snow...

As such I advise aspiring bladesmiths to start by taking an automotive coil spring and cutting it across the coils into thirds or halves to get a bunch of "(" shaped pieces all the same alloy. This can then be used to train yourself hammering and shaping a "knife grade" steel; while still being inexpensive. You can also experiment on heat treating and testing to destruction. Learning 1 knife grade alloy thoroughly makes learning others easier.

"Knife grade stainless" and "forgiving steel" tend to be contradictions.

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Typically steels that carry enough chromium to be corrosion resistant aren't for the entry level smith. They are much too fickle with forge temps and heat treating. If you want stainless, or simi-stainless get some flat stock and do it by stock removal or get some planer blades and work it hard. For a newbie forging blades, most of us will recommend 1080 or 5160.


I should clarify, if you buy stainless or d-2 flat stock you'll need to send it to be heat treated.

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Okay some great adivse there...  I have a few old files I could anneal and a few old cold chisels and punches I could work with to get a feel for real knife grade steel.    Ill keep my eyes out for an old leaf spring or coil.

 

thanks!

~Steve

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Some old files can make great knives.  If heat treating is going to be an issue you can work the file hard (gotta keep it cool) and temper to get it to a good hardness for a knife.  Black Diamonds and Nicholsons are always going to be good steel, everything else is a crap shoot. 

A late model leaf spring will make a bunch of knives, and the steel is typically some version of 5160.  Those springs should be easy to get.  Drop by a scrap yard, talk to the manager.  Tell him what you want, he'll probably give you one.  Be sure to thank him with the first knife.  ;)

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Thanks Steve, I have a few books and have read a lot about it, just wanted some ideas on the variety of steels out there.  Looks like I will most likely get some 1084 and be done with it.

 

~Steve

 (lots of Steves in this thread!)

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but grearheart... you do have security steel out there, they deal mainly in 5160 and 1084 :)

No SS here. We have Pacific Machine and Tool Steel Co. in Portland that deals with O1, 5160, 1095, and 1065, and a host of other tool steels. A 9' piece of 3/16 x 1.5 of 1095 is $38.16. 1/4 x 1.5 x 20 of 1065 hr plow is $31.90 ea.

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Hey guys, well we had a few days of nice weather and motivation was high so I pounded out some mild steel...  My first time at an anvil for more than two minutes and my first time at a 2x72 belt!  I will get my hands on some "real" steel soon but in the mean time enjoy some pics of my journey starting at 12" x 1" x .250 .....

 

Not sure how to post a link to the album so Ill try a few ways...

 

~Steve

 

that werent it,  bad attempt at linking removed.

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