dntfxr Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Has anyone ever tried hexagonal boron nitride, or "white graphite"? I would think it might be best, can be found fairly cheap and a little should go a long way. The seed lube mentioned earlier would probably be very good too, usually either graphite, talc or a combination of the two. The talc has the added benefit of being a thermal insulator, won't burn and is actually softer than graphite. I'll probably keep using the talc/soapstone for now, just less mess. I might try the carpenters pencil too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 Hexagonal boron Nitride, just them words enough are sending chills down my back, we use a commercial lube (actually we have used 2) the 1st one was called Deltaforge 106H (came in a 20 litre container) which was made by a firm known as Acheson, but they wanted to be silly with their purchasing requirements, so now we use basically the same thing only now it is called Lubrodal F20C (comes in a 10 litre container) which is sold by Fuchs oils and lubricants, they are both a graphite based fluid, we use it diluted 1 to 5 and we also bought a special application gun that sprays it in a air/product mixture. The only thing that is a downside with both of them is that when drifts and punches are sprayed with it they become really hard to pick up with the tongs cause they are so slippery. The difference between using it and not using it for us is really noticeable especially when using stamping dies etc, use the lube, the job goes in easy and comes out easy and the tools rarely need attention, don't use it, and the job becomes a real battle of the blacksmith against the tools. We also have used a mixture of Steam Cylinder oil and graphite in the early days, though it could tend to be a bit messy. There is still occasions when we will use coal too when punching, normally when making hammer heads etc under the hammer. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Mullins Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 What I don't like about it is the necessity to heat the tools enough to flash off the water. If I am punching a hole or 2 it can be a pain to use. This is what I have been wondering about, the need to have a preheated punch before I start working if I am going to be using a water based graphite solution. Perhaps a waxy stick to begin and go to the water after the punch heats up? Is anyone else using soap stone as per 1 of the replies above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 I don't worry about pre heating my tool before using. The water /graphite mix stays on just fine. My graphite is the super fine type and I don't need to use soap to break the water tension so the graphite stays suspended it the water. I use an acid brush to apply the mix. Usually after the first go round its hot anyway.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 I guess I didn't make myself clear earlier. Is there a commercial lube sold in small batches, say pint or quart size? If yes, will someone post the name please? Heck good search terms would do the trick. I'm finding all kiinds of interesting things online but . . . Thanks, Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 I bought my 5 gallon jug from a place Ptree recommended a few years ago on Keenjunk or Forgemajic. My understanding is this company no longer exists. Tom Clark was selling pints or quarts of this lube already diluted. But I don't believe anyone is currently selling it in small lots. This lube is not graphite based it looks like a dark oil but is not an oil either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 To my knowledge, no one is currently selling pints or quarts. Fuchs makes a similar lube to the one I suggested years ago. Henkle surface technologies also made one but only sells in 55 gallon drums and then only if pushed. I have made contact with Fuches and will report what they say. We used their lubradol graphite in water mix, good but the alkaline lube is better. It is much less hassel to heat the tool than most expect. I dip the tool after one or two hits and it is hot then. I also dip before i hang the tool when finished and then it is ready for the next use. Graphite smokes and dusts and is messy. I have yet to find a completly non-messy forge lube. At the upsetter shop we even used a paste of graphite and road tar! Talk about smoke? only used for one reverse extrusion job using one exotic alloy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 Tom was selling the lube from Henkle Surface Technologies. He sold at 5% in water. I was the one who first showed it to him and gave him samples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Blythin Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 If there is a demand for it, have any of you with a larger shop considered buying a drum of one of these, portioning it out and selling it? Perhaps if you ideally want a smaller amount (1/2 drum), buy a full one and sell the rest... A lot of materials handling suppliers sell empty pint, quart & gallon containers very cheaply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Yes and working on the details now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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