Rich mentioned a router/drill in the handle class:

 

In the foregrouind is a roiuter drill, Got at big box store for a few bucks 1/4" It has teeth on the chank,,so youi can drill a hole and then useing high speed drill youi can m ove the hole to the side Don't force it.

 

The local folks at both Lowes and Home Depot here have no idea what I am talking about.

 

Anyone have any ideas about locating a couple of these bits?

 

Thanks,

Dave

 

foreground of what? you forgot the pictures.

Dave, look over in the Dremel accessory section, there are a variety of bits that will do what you are describing. I'm assuming you want to use this for wood and other types of handle materials.

Bill

The bit that he's talking about is often associated with drywall/sheetrock installation.  It's what they use in a dremel or drill to cut out openings around light fixtures and switches.  It has teeth on the shank that act like a cutter just like if you were working with a proper milling bit.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-saw-drill-bit-set-42804.html

Thanks, guys!

Dave

They are also sold at knife making suppliers listed in the forums.

For woodworking, I believe that you are looking for a router-use "Straight Bit"  http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/article/sorting-out-straight-router-bits.aspx

Actually David the one you linked us to would not work for wot I spoke of,,I like the other kind with a common shaped bevel on the working end. It would require a starter hole to keep from walking when  it meets the material. It would work well on material firmly clamped in a vise to a drill press or a mill. I kind of geared the tools and methods to those that may not have a well equipped shop. The ones I use would work in a hand drill to drill a block of wood or antler that is either clamped to a bench or maybe even hand held...If it did come loose and start spinning they could just let go. And they are easy to start on a pencil mark,,if off a bit just adjust angle of drill or material to move back on line. 

Also Branded as a 'Rotozip' tool.

 Actually thosse dremel and rotozip bits..the ones I have seen are not quarter inch in diameter linke wot I use. I get mine from Home Depot or K and G knfe supplies. In K and Gs catalog I have next to me ,,2010-2011 it is on page 40 and they call it a drill router.

I m mput a bit of side load on it in drillpress. and they do well..it is also long enough to do wot I want..I drillpart way through a handle and finish from other side if needed.

Interesting how many folks posting about this may have missed the pics of mine in use in the knfe making lessons.

I demur - not smart enough to find the pics.

With the thought that anyone clicking this link may find something in the lessons they may want...

It is in lesson five,,handles,,,It will nto allow me to link it here.

K and G has no listing for a bit like in your pic, Rich.

Dave

I have a catalog in hand and it is on page 40,,,,it I think is latest catalog,,20102011,,,did you call and ask?,,,they have this same catalog i spoke with them yesterday

i just looked at home depot web site,,they list a vermont american drill saw bit in 1/4 "...

Thanks, Rich. I will pick up a couple this weekend. I have a very old round file that I ground a flute into after grinding down an end to get into a drill. It has worked for a long time for me but I think your tool suggestion may be easier to control :)

My grandfather used to say "the easiest way to do the whole job".

Thanks again,

Dave

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Yup- that looks like the one from Home Depot :)

Dave

Check out the stuff from pherd they sell the ''real deal'' those jobs from home depot are ''handyman grade''

Ian

When we did the knife making lessons I had hoped that by posting pictures and text would have let folks know how I do things needed and helpful to make a knife,,and stretched that to include several styles of knives and handles. It is sad that so many folks did not see the  value in that ..the posts in this thread are an example of that.

Rich, when you found me to be in error, I demurred.  I did not see a link to the original post, and spent a bit of time searching for it. I tried to correct my speaking out of turn with work.

 

I finally managed to find (and post) the image to which you referred in Post #11, and could not link to (I hope I got it right this time). 

 

I apologize for piping up in your blade forum.  I am only a toolmaker, and the work you do is very high end (I also looked on your web site). I will not be taking blade classes for quite some time, as I am just getting to the basics.

 

For me, this is simply a matter of getting lost in translation, not a slight of your contributions.

 

As I may not speak for others I will only speak for myself.  I see the value of your contributions, but only to the extent that my competence allows me to do so.  I humbly hope you see the value in that.

 

Robert Taylor

I learned something new. I had not known about these.

**Correction**

 

After checking my work, I discovered a gross error of usage:

 

Post #10: "I demur - not smart enough to find the pics."

 

Post #20 "Rich, when you found me to be in error, I demurred."

 

Definition:  to take exception, to raise objections, to object.....

 

The term demur is misused by me in these posts, and has the opposite meaning of what I wanted to say, which was: 

I withdraw, I acquiesce.

 

That being said, the bottom line, Rich Hale, is that after reading thousands of your words on this Forum, and viewing your products online I have a high degree of respect for your aptitude, experience, and accomplishments.

 

Robert Taylor