110V flux core to join 1/4" thick legs to 1/2" plate

[Mike Romo]

So.  After much advice gathered and perusing my materials on hand to build my anvil stand.  Here is my plan. 

 

I managed to weld three pieces of 1/2" plate together to form a square 12" x 12" x 1/2" thick.  I beveled the edged, tacked them together, and welded one side.  After seeing how poorly it penetrated, I ground the welds out and re-welded them while still warm from grinding.  Worked pretty well.  I flipped them over and welded the back side.  Judging from the edges, I got near full penetration by going from both side.  The plate is now finished.

 

Here is my issue now.

 

The legs I have chosen for my anvil stand are 2" x 4" square tubing with 1/4" thick walls.  I need to weld them to the plate to form a three legged stand.

 

1.  I was planning to preheat the plate and allow the heat to wick to the legs.  Question is::::::How hot to preheat as far as color of metal?

 

2.  I was also planning to weld uphill as my research indicates I will get better penetration using my wire feed on thicker metal..

 

 

Please share your ideas.  I really want this to work and I really want to do this myself.  I never thought I could do most of what I have done so far, but it appears I have.

 

First pic is of the plate before grinding the welds and rewelding it.

 

Second pic is of the legs laying atop the plate.

[jmccustomknives]

Just remember, you can bevill and make multiple passes.  The biggest problem is the duty cycle of your machine, you'll have to take your time.  Preheating will help, probably 350F will be plenty warm.  good luck.

[Jim Coke]

Greetings Mike,

 

Looks like you have quite a project on the table... One word of caution..  It would be best to clamp your plate down and weld it in small sections after tacking.  You will find with the preheat and heat from the welding it will warp like a dish..  I would flip it from side to side .  Now the fun part .. Establishing the and cutting the correct angle of the tube...  I will pass on a trick that I do..  Cut and weld the plate legs first..   When complete stand it up on a level floor..  Take a 3/4 scale put in on the floor next to the legs and mark the legs for cutting..  This way it is easier than trying of match the angles.  Your cutting the last angle to match the floor...  I hope this helps 

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

 

After thought... I would weld some pipe flanges on the leg bottoms for more surface area..  Enclosed a picture of a vice stand with flanges

 

 

 

[Rich Hale]

I would weld quarter inch plates to top of legs and bolt them to the half inch,,,

[DSW]

1.  I was planning to preheat the plate and allow the heat to wick to the legs.  Question is::::::How hot to preheat as far as color of metal?

 

 

 

Honestly that machine isn't rated to do 1/4". It really is an 1/8" or less machine under real world conditions. Bevel and preheat will get you a "better" weld, but it's not what I would do for critical applications. That said it will work for what you are doing, just don't expect easily repeatable results in the future. Also make sure you are on a dedicated 20 amp circuit with nothing else on that line. A 30 amp would be better, but most guys don't have access to a 30 amp 110v circuit.

 

 

350 or 400 deg would be fine. If you are preheating with an OA torch, use 100% acetylene to "soot" the work, then heat until the soot burns off and you are about right.

 

 

 

 

2.  I was also planning to weld uphill as my research indicates I will get better penetration using my wire feed on thicker metal..

 

 

Welding vertical up will give you better penetration vs vertical down. The rising heat will also help to preheat the material some. HOWEVER... if you can't read the puddle and do decent welds vertical, I wouldn't go that route. 95% of the hobbyists I have helped learn to weld can't weld vertical when they come into class even if they say they can "weld". All they do is make a drippy ugly mess. For those who can't read the puddle yet you would be better off welding this in the flat position. The preheat will take care of your heat issue and because you aren't fighting gravity, you can take your time and burn in the weld more.

 

 

Take your time. From what little I can see of the welds on your plate, they look cold and rushed. Close up picts would give me a better idea what they are like.

[Mike Romo]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the clarification about preheating and welding horizontally.

I already cut the legs to their final angles, but I plan to go slow--duty cycle was already my

I do have plans to weld feet on the legs. Probably 4" x 6" x 1/4" plates.

I am looking forward to this. I will post final pics when I finish.

[Mike Romo]

Either that or Plan B. Lol

[Hillbillysmith]

I have PERSONALLY welded 1" thick steel together using a 110V FCAW (flux core) machine; Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 100 to be exact and I have also used a 110V Millermatic 135 sold wire machine to do the same thing. I would have absolutely no fear of having it held over my head! Preheat and joint prep are the 2 key ingredients for the recipe. You can either fillet weld the legs by preheating both the plate and the tube both to 350 degrees minimum or you can bevel the end of the tube slightly over half way through at a 45ish degree angle and preheat the plate to 350 minimum... Depending on your pocket book, your local welding supplier has an item called "Tempil Sticks" and they are basically high-temp crayons that melt at a specified temperature. A secondary, cheaper route would be to hit up Harbor Freight for an infrared temp gun. Lastly, and the cheapest way for preheat, would be to grind the metal clean (which you should do anyway ESPECIALLY with a 110V machine) and get a blue color moving through it up to a dull red color. Hope this helps, post pictures and results!

 

-Hillbilly

[Crazy Ivan]

If there is serious concern for penetration and heat, I would pre-heat the feet, bevel the legs, and stick some welding wire in between the two to get a small gap for a CJP (complete joint penetration) weld. I run a 110 lincoln machine with flux cored wire fairly often and even though it says it can weld up to 3/8" steel (depending on the wire size used) that does not mean one pass on 3/8" plate is a done deal. Use multi-pass on a CJP joint and you will be fine to weld 1/4" to 1/2" for THIS application. Or you could take the advice Rich gave and bolt the feet on. (also note that I said MY welder can run on 3/8", and doesn't necessarily mean yours can. Lincoln has a few machines at the 110 power with different capabilities).

-Crazy Ivan

[Anachronist58]

Mike Romo - As usual lots of people on this site with positive contributions!  I'm quoting Hillbillysmith:

 

"I have PERSONALLY welded 1" thick steel together using a 110V FCAW (flux core) machine; Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 100 to be exact" 

 

and Crazy Ivan:

 

"I run a 110 lincoln machine with flux cored wire fairly often and even though it says it can weld up to 3/8" steel (depending on the wire size used) that does not mean one pass on 3/8" plate is a done deal."

 

Because I have done done essentially the same things with the Weld Pak 100, far exceeding the capacities listed on the machine.  As often stated above, it is about edge prep, preheat and/or flipping/ stitching your welds to bias warpage, and Duty Cycle. Lots of 110V wire feeders out there, some having more GUTS than Others. Oh, and one more thing:  For FCAW, be sure your Polarity is set to DCEN, in English, that the Wire coming out of your Gun is Negative, and your Ground Clamp is Positive.  This comes straight out of the Weld Pak 100 Manual which will jump right out at you when you "Google" it.  Miller also has their operators manuals easily accessible online, PRINTABLE and VERY WELL written (IMHO).

 

Earlier this year I went up to my Dad's house, and set about building a mule (Named Robert) powered asphalt tamper from an old truck axle and 1/4 x 6 x 6 HRS Plate.  Got out his Lincoln SP-125 (110V) with .035" InnerShield (FCAW), did a light Prep, and Dropped the Hammer. InnerShield is designed to viciously stab Rust, Oils, and Crud out of the weld zone. Danger! Welding Combustion Products can Cause Serious Injury or Death! 

 

Think of my shock, surprise and dismay at the apparent realization that I no longer knew how to weld!!?? It's true it had been 8 years more or less, since I had picked up any sort of Stinger, But How could this be! Like riding a bicycle, Who Forgets How to Weld?? Squeeze Trigger, Pop! Stick! Snip off the wasted wire! Was I going Blind?? Pop! Stick! Snip! I am Destroyed.

 

I was Flushed and Sweating Profusely in the 40 Deg F February air, as my 81 year old Father stood over me. I could here him thinking about his IDIOT 55 year old Son, "always bragging and full of (insert favorite)" Just then, and Angel touched my shoulder, and whispered, "polarity". That's my story.  the polarity was set up for Gas.  I switched the leads and instantly, I was once again a + mediocre welder.

 

Mike, may your Anvil Stand bring you Joy,

 

R. Taylor

[Anachronist58]

DSW: Just want you to know that I read your August 12, 2013 reply to post "MIG vs.Firewelding" :

 

 

"One thing you didn't mention, that I'd strongly suggest, is material prep. While the piece you welded on wasn't bad, you always get better results if you clean and prep your material 1st. A wire wheel usually won't cut it either. You need to sand or grind to shiny steel. Another pet peeve of mine is guys who simply weld over everything and never prep...."

 

I want to acknowledge in Full Public View I agree with the above statement.  Prep is King and should always be done whenever Possible!

 

Robert

[Hillbillysmith]

Anachronist 58:

DCEN is only used in a CV (constant voltage) operation when the flux cored wire is of a self-shielded type (innershield). Gas shielded flux cored wire (outershield or dual shield) is still run on DCEP.

Just so nobody gets confused.

-Hillbilly

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

I have a Lincoln SP100 and have had good results with a bevel, and air gap as Crazy Ivan describes. That way you know you got all the way through. Use multiple passes, and drag the gun, don't push it. Dragging allows more heat into the weld puddle. Get a good root pass, and then lay a couple of overlapping cover beads. You will know if you got it right if the welds blend nicely into the plates without undercutting (too hot/too fast) or too rounded (too cold).

Of course if you have access to a bigger machine use it. I have MIGs up to 650 amps,and tigs/sticks up to 350, but if that is all you have access to it can be done with the right prep.

[Anachronist58]

Thanks, Hillbilly,  Always willing to take refinement.  My welding experience is limited and I have much yet to Learn!  Looking it up Now.

 

Robert