Levi761 Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 I've been wanting to get into smithing for some time now. I've been collecting all the things I need; anvil, tools, even building a shed. I was planning to build a brake drum forge, until my Grandmaw bought me a rivet forge from a sale. So now im going to use it. First though, it will need some work. I'm going go take it all apart and clean it. But my main problem it the hand pump mechanism. Not quite sure what the correct term is. I was planning on winging it together, using the guess and see if it works technique, but figured I'd ask if anyone knows what I need. Hopefully save some time and aggravation and doing the same thing over and over until its good enough to make me happy. Any suggestions for: - Lenght of handle - Distance on handle for connection to forge, and also the thing that turns the wheel. - Distance offset from rim of forge - Should I clay this forge? - Anything else I need to know Also, anyone know the maker, or date period for this forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Greetings Levi, Welcome to IFI.. Complete your profile so others can see where your from and basic info... Well you have a lot of work to do.. I just gave my friend the parts you need for your forge.. sorry.. They can be made with out to much of a problem... First off disassemble very carefully the castings are crispy and will break easy.. Clean up all components , drive ,gears, blower, Your blower will need some attention it seems to be opened up .. The parts you need are a swivel for the handle mount.. 2 inch and a half 1/4 U shaped straps riveted together to mount to the forge ... For the handle you can use a wheel barrel handle. You will have to make up a connector rod from an eye bolt on the handle to the counter weight on the gear.. A 5/16 rod will do fine.. I suggest that you find some pictures for reference to go buy. Your forge looks like an early Buffalo Forge. A leather belt and your off to the races.. I hope this helps..Its hard to explain all that needs to be done.. Take it slow and easy and you will end up with a nice unit... Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Good Morning, The drive belt originally was leather. You can make one from one of your old belts that used to hold your pants in place. There are lots of different ways to make a drive belt with other available material. It is similar to what is used in vacuum cleaners (maybe join 2 or 3 vacuum cleaner belts together to get the length). Neoprene O-Rings are glued together with Krazy Glue, probably can do that with the vacuum cleaner belts. A close friend has a forge exactly like yours, it works well with little fires. Enjoy the journey. :) :) Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 I probably won't get a chance until late next week, but if I remember when I get back to the shop, I'll grab some picts of my forge like that for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Welcome aboard Levi, glad to have you. Claying a cast forge pan won't hurt a thing while using one without that is supposed to be clayed can cause badness to happen. Cast iron doesn't like localized temperature differences or fast changes so a layer of clay disperses the heat to minimize thermal shock. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewOC Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Welcome to Iforgeiron!Check out "portable forge blower hand crank pump" on Youtube, it is a unit very similar to yours. ( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levi761 Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thanks for the input everyone. And AndrewOs, I have a local shop that sells coal so I was planning on using coal. You suspect charcoal would be easier, but is there any drawback for using coal with this forge? I had thought coal had a more localized heat with a little crustyness that gets on top, also less radiant heat, so I can get closer without burning myself. Also, I'd hate to catch a tree on fire with the charcoal sharks flying around. This will be my first attempt at forging, and wanted to plan everything to be safest. All the answers for my questions probably have already been answered, so I search and read threads everyday. Figured I'd ask while I'm searching. Ill try to find the pros and cons of diffrent solid fuels, something I should have considered more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Depends what kind of coal they sell. I wouldn't choose to run "hard" cola ( anthracite) in my small pump forge like that. It's too hard to get going and it takes an almost constant flow of air to stay running. Soft coal ( bituminous) on the other hand lights real easy and will stay lit with the air shut down so when you stop pumping it's not a big deal. I use bagged soft coal in my pump forge and hard coal in my table forge with the electric blower. Most of the suppliers in my area that stock coal all sell "hard" coal for heating. I can buy "soft" forge coal from a couple of suppliers, but they are a fairly decent drive for me to get to, about 1 1/2 hours one way. Luckily one of the guys in my local blacksmithing groups sold me a bag of soft coal from their forge, and the one place an hour and a half north of me is next door to where they hold hammer-in's for another group. I can pick up coal when I go to the meeting. Right now the only reason I'm using hard coal is because I was given 3 55 gallon drums of it for free by a friend whose old farm house used to have a coal furnace. As soon as that is gone I'll just buy soft coal by the ton and use it for everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Renaud Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Thanks for the input everyone. And AndrewOs, I have a local shop that sells coal so I was planning on using coal. You suspect charcoal would be easier, but is there any drawback for using coal with this forge? I had thought coal had a more localized heat with a little crustyness that gets on top, also less radiant heat, so I can get closer without burning myself. Also, I'd hate to catch a tree on fire with the charcoal sharks flying around. This will be my first attempt at forging, and wanted to plan everything to be safest. All the answers for my questions probably have already been answered, so I search and read threads everyday. Figured I'd ask while I'm searching. Ill try to find the pros and cons of diffrent solid fuels, something I should have considered more. Your forge will work fine with blacksmiths coal, Soft coal, Bituminous ,Farriers coal. All 3 are the same but different areas use different names i live in north east Conn. and I can buy Farriers coal through Aubochon's Hardware stores my local one always has it in stock but even if they didn't any of the Aubchons hardware chain stores can order it for you. I have used a forge just like yours for many years with coal with no problems and until recently I did not know you were supposed to line them with clay I see a lot of blacksmiths around here that do not have lined forges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck in Ms Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Levi, you can get the leather from a hobby or craft store along with the the needles and thread to put it together. It does not have to be super tight to work either. Changes in air temp will produce a lot of slack in the belt at times, but it will still work. When stiching the belt together carve groves in the working side of the belt to allow the thread to lay below the surface, this will keep the belt from walking off the flywheel. I use these type of forges alot with no clay liner. With plenty of fuel in the pan there has never been a problem with the localized heat on the cast for me. I worry more about water than fire. Always have plenty of fuel in the bottom of the pan prior to using water to control the fire and never leave wet coal in the pan when you stop work or store the forge. Wet coal will rust it out faster than salt water. This has always been my concern with the clay liner, water and coal dust would eventually get between the liner and the pan and remain trapped there. Besides I have three of these forges and have seen many others and none show signs of ever having a clay liner. The first one I bought about six years ago gets alot of use between demos and my kids forgeing all the time. It shows no signs of wear and it still has the first belt I made for it. Get yours together and start forging. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.