Nick Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I'm going to make a bick to fit in the hardie hole on my anvil, but it has a 1 1/4" hole, so I need a sizeable shank. The piece I have chosen will be about 1/2" too small once I forge it square for the shank. I thought of either welding a collar around the shank to increase its size, serving as the start for the shoulder at the same time, or cutting though the bottom, folding it over, welding it, and then forging to shape. The collar seems like it would be easier to finish, even if it will be more work to set up. In either case, I want to avoid making a sleeve for the hardie hole, and this seems like a good test, since I have ideas for some more hardy tools to make. Do these possibilities sound feasible, or should I just make an insert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Why not just cut some angle iron shims and place them in the hardy hole? You only need to shim up two sides. Or, if you feel ambitious you could do all four. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Greetings Nick, Find you a chunk of 2in round bar and forge it square... This should be easy in the UP with the oil industry and such... Check your local junk yard... I would buy some extra your will end up making more anvil tools.... Good luck and I wish you well... Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Depending on how long you want the shank on the tool it may be possible to upset the area where the tool meets the hardy hole. If you are starting with a long bar, say 2 to 4 feet you can heat up just the end and drive it into a steel plate sitting on the ground to upset the shank. Or if it is already short use a striker with a sledge hammer over a anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 I'm currently working on a similar bick project. My hardy is somewhere between 1" and 1.25", and the largest stock I have is 1" square. So, I welded on a piece of .125"x 1" to two sides of the stem. This gives me plenty of meat to grind down so I have a tight fit in the hardy, but I'll still be welding a collar around the stem so that it doesn't sink or wobble when working on the bick. After building my anvil stand, I had a bunch of little pieces of 1" square stock left over and thought.... "why not use them like legos to make something useful....." So, now I get to practice my welding and get some experience sculpting metal to create something that's relatively pretty. Should be fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 I personally hate upsetting if I don't have to so don't do that. <grin> 2" rd. is almost THE size to square up for a 1.25" hardy hole. A pickup axle from the wrecking yard is pretty darned good bick and other bottom tool stock. virtually any 2" dia. rd. stock is good. Failing finding good starting stock I'd fagot weld the end and forge it down. Even if I didn't have a power hammer. Check machine shops for drops, they usually have a bunch and may not charge more than scrap. Where in the UP are you? I married a gal from Ironwood. Any idea how hard it is to find a lady who thinks an Alaskan winter is tame? Snowfall wise anyway. <grin> Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Try not to over think it, you are going to make a lot of tools just get a full length of the stock you need. I would just go to your metal supplier 4140 is a good tool making metal and not to hard to work. I would get some 1 3/4" round. Draw a square taper in one end then up set it into the hardy hole. There is an other choice you can look up Brian Breazel striking anvil and make one with a 1" hardy hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 Thanks for the thoughts. I imagine I will use all these options at some point. I know I'll make the shims for hardies that are too small (I can't pass up hardies just because they don't fit my regular anvil), and I definitely will do collars on some tools, mainly stakes that will normally be set in wood. I think I'll do the faggot weld on this particular tool, so it fits tight in the hardie hole like the one Jim Austin uses to make axes. I have a couple 2" axles, which will get turned into some tools soon like a stake anvil and some hammers (and a 5" which I'd love to turn into a taller cone mandrel). I do need to go and buy some larger stock, for tools and other projects, though. Frosty, I'm in the central UP, in Marquette County. We do love our lake effect snow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Why not just cut some angle iron shims and place them in the hardy hole? You only need to shim up two sides. Or, if you feel ambitious you could do all four. I'm currently working on a similar bick project. My hardy is somewhere between 1" and 1.25", and the largest stock I have is 1" square. So, I welded on a piece of .125"x 1" to two sides of the stem. This gives me plenty of meat to grind down so I have a tight fit in the hardy, but I'll still be welding a collar around the stem so that it doesn't sink or wobble when working on the bick. After building my anvil stand, I had a bunch of little pieces of 1" square stock left over and thought.... "why not use them like legos to make something useful....." So, now I get to practice my welding and get some experience sculpting metal to create something that's relatively pretty. Should be fun! X2 on the shims/angle iron. I had an undersized shank on a cutoff hardie and just welded a piece of angle iron on one corner to fit my 1" hardie hole...fit perfectly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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