Black Frog Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 When I want to make a nice impression on a new salvage yard owner, or a good place to find scrap treasures, I introduce myself and mention that I really enjoy blacksmithing and ironwork. Once we get talking about things I'm looking for or what I'd like to buy is when I pull out a little forged 'something' to give them and so that they will remember me next time. Seems this has worked like a charm for me thus far in making great contacts (and deals) so tonight I made up some giveaway PR bottle openers with my new stamp prominently on them, far from perfect and not cleanly done but plenty fine to make a great impression. They are about 5.5" long, and have a nice, heavy, beefy fell to them. Manly openers... ;) As an experiment in learning, for some of these I started with 1/2" bar and upset the end with several heats to around 5/8" then tapered down from there. The other ones I started with 3/4" bar reduced to 5/8" and tapered down. I think I like the upsetting method better than moving all the metal from the 3/4" bar. Always learning as I go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 GOOD Morning, I guess they would work with twist-tops too!! :) :) Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broomhead Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Very nice. I need to find some time to get out and make some stuff. I want to make some bottle openers to start out with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Good PR Frogman! I like the little knob end but think maybe a little hook thingy to open pop tops might be nice. Don't want people thinking you're prejudiced against cans do you? I need to come up with a touch mark I guess. Hmmmm. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Nice design! What size drift did you use on the jaws? If you haven't seen this thread you might enjoy reading it. '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>> If you did do a hook as Frosty suggests, I'd attach a lanyard to the opener and sell them to bartenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Greetings Frogman, No good .. No good at all ... You must bring your openers up to my shop for a road test on a few brews and discuss your design.. I'm sure it will take a few days... A lady blacksmith friend showed my a trick with a steel yard stick to open bottles... Quick placement and a back kick .. Its fun and it makes you want to open many. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Quality control is crucial to what we do. I used to be pretty good about not beer drinking but each of these openers must be tested multiple times and work just as well when the user has had 1 beer or 10. It's a tough job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 That is one of my requirements, that every bottle opener be quality control test functioned for proper operation. Not one opener has ever left my place without being tested first. My rule. ;) JIm, If I'm ever in MI I'll bring one along and come find you and we can test drive one on a few beers. ;) Maybe I'll add a little tab on the end of the opener for cans- Frosty thanks for the idea! Might be a nice touch. Gotta make sure enough meat is left out on the end for making that new tab, and still having it look right. dcraven- This started as 1/2" square bar, upset the end to about 5/8", then taper down to where you're going to slit/drift the hole. I flatten out an area for where the hole goes. Drifted to about 3/4" and then forge the rim to your liking on the horn. I forge the rim to get the width and thickness about right and leaving around a 7/8"-1" hole by the time I'm done tweaking. Just don't get it too thin out on the end- no wimpy openers! After you get your rim shape and thickness to where you like it, then add the cap catch that protrudes the metal into the hole. I use a large round fullering tool. Of course by adding a can tab to the bottle opener that will then double my quality control method for each opener..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Second attempt at these bottle openers this morning. I have a bunch of 1/2" square 8" lengths of original old wrought iron from some fencing being salvaged, so I thought I'd like to try a little nicer version of the bottle opener with real wrought iron since I've never worked it before. I upset the 8" bar down to about 5.5", and then tapered from there. I decided to give these some life by adding a gentle curve to the handle, and a functional curve to the opener itself. These are bigger, longer and heavier than the previous ones. They are a full 6+" long and the fat end is around 3/4" after upsetting. The functional curve to the opener end works great. More handle torque and a better "engagement" onto the bottle cap for opening. I really liked the second try at these, but I put more time into them too. I don't consider these new ones the "giveaway" openers at this point, too much time and valuable material into these. I didn't add the can opener tab to these, opening cans is beneath a fancy opener like this.... ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Of course opening a can of beer is beneath an opener like this or any other, if it was above the opener you'd spill beer! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Those new ones look great as well. I'm gonna add some of those to my to do list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 After giving these new openers a completely thorough workout all day today, I noticed a few changes needed. While I really like the heaviness and beefy feel of the thicker material, the length is a bit too long for nice balance. I want to keep that thickness on the end and shorten up the overall length. 4.5''-5" would be about right for nice balace and operation with this size design. I want the end ball of that opener there right at my little pinky when I'm using it. Onto version three.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 More testing needed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobshagg Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Great looking openers all of them. I too went through many different versions before landing on an opener that I liked, and I'm still tweaking it. I'm going to have to give your version a try as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosox Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 They look nice. That is a very practical kind of project. Might try that one too. Job well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Worked on version three for several hours last night after work. Each new version is taking longer to make with more detail and effort, not the direction I wanted to go but I'm happy with the results. These are right around 5.5" long and feel just about right for balance with a thicker head and mid-body while still having the beefy end which I like. I think I still would like to see a bit more tweaking on them for shape/thickness in the body-to-head transition area, but I like the length and design now. I took 6" of my 1/2" square wrought iron and upset it down to 4" to get the fat 3/4" end and gradual taper at the same time. That 4" tapered chunk turns into about 5.5" finished length after the slit/drifted/forged head. I have large hands, and that fat end is right on my pinky when in use opening a bottle, right where I wanted it. Made a pair of these: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 I like that very much! Do you know how long each one is taking right now? One thing a bartender suggested to me on mine was making a hole or some means of attaching a lanyard to it so he wouldn't lose it when working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Since I'm still sort of experimenting, I can't really get a good time estimate for making them "for real". I was tinkering around for over 3hrs with this pair by the time I shut down the forge.... Upsetting the 6" down to 4" takes some time while keeping things straight. I was going to drill a hole cross-ways throught the fat end ball for a leather lanyard, and then maybe forge a mounting hook and install a magnet on the backside. Then the opener can hang nicely by a cool looking leather lanyard, which is why I put on my frog logo in the reverse direction on this version. Its backwards when you're hanging onto it, but will look correct when hanging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 I meant to ask you what your touchmark was. Now I see it matches your screen icon, very cool! This is off subject, but how'd you make your touchmark? I know what you mean by upsetting taking some time. The spike hawk I made required taking a RR spike down to 3" or so. I need to time it the next time I do one to have a better idea of time spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 I had the touchmark stamp made, too much small detail for me to attempt making it myself. I'm happy I had it made, and it turned out great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camero68 Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 That's a very cool bottle opener! Like the design and the frog logo. Great idea on a leather lanyard, will go really well with the metal. Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MLMartin Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Who made the stamp for you? It looks great Handy little things token gifts can be. I probably need to make a hand full myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted July 10, 2013 Author Share Posted July 10, 2013 Stamp made by Columbia Marking: http://columbiamt.com/CMT-Main/ They have made many forum member's stamps. Spent time on version four tonight, thicker head and nice taper, drilled a hole and installed a tan leather lanyard. Best yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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