Broomhead Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I'm looking to modify an extra hammer I have by grinding it into a rounding hammer. Problem is, I have no idea how round/pronounced to make it. I have Googled images of rounding hammers and think I have an idea of where it should be. However, I wanted to get some input from the masters, or at least the masterful. So...how round is your rounding hammer? Does anyone have any detailed pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 At the top of the tools page is a thread about modifying a store bought hammer,,,,was anything in there of any help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 I think the extra hammer you have will help determine the size of you modification. You didn't mention what kind of hammer you have. I would think about what kind you need most. I have three rounding hammers and find I use all three. Each one is a little different in the shape of the rounded head or portion. So, pick a general shape you like as a starting point and get other rounding hammers as time passes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broomhead Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 I did read through that, it deals mostly with making a cheap hammer into a better hammer, not so much with rounding hammers though. I have the tools and the knowledge of the how-to. I'm looking mostly for the how much. What kind of radius should I be looking for? It's a 2.5# drilling hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 How much radius will depend on wot you forge with it,,And wot you want the surface to look like after,,,try it like it is,,,modify and try again see how changes affect the work....It also depends on your skill and ability, the better you get the more you can see wot you want a hammer to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broomhead Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 How much radius will depend on wot you forge with it,,And wot you want the surface to look like after,,,try it like it is,,,modify and try again see how changes affect the work....It also depends on your skill and ability, the better you get the more you can see wot you want a hammer to do. That makes perfect sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 I wouldn't think about a certain radius, but instead think of a squashed ball. I don't know how to link it but there is a thread here on why the rounding hammer with a video. If you look at how the radius changes as the hammer is tilted, it will explain why there are more surfaces available on a properly ground rounding hammer than any other kind of hammer to forge with. If you were to grind a certain radius, all you would have is that one radius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broomhead Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 A squashed ball does make more sense, allows for more varsatility. I can visualize that easier too. Thanks for the clarification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Here are a couple of pics I took in the ABANA gallery last year. See if this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broomhead Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Those do help, they look similar to the pictures I googled but are closer. Now, on that hammer, is the left side "square", or is it just rounded differently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5starhobo (blake) Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 its the flat dye. the edges are radiuses to keep from accidentally dinging up the work, I'm sure there are other reasons that i don't know about but surely brian does because thats what he uses :) Those do help, they look similar to the pictures I googled but are closer. Now, on that hammer, is the left side "square", or is it just rounded differently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 If you're going to grind the pein start out with a wider radius than you think you'll need and give it a try. Use it for a wile and modify it till you have what you like. The heavier the hammer the wider the radius has been my observation. My Diamond(I think) turning hammer has a radius I estimate to be around 2". Another thing I've observed is the radius of the dome of the pein is less than the radius of body of the pein. Of course that's just my thinking, I could be full of beans. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick L. Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 I wouldn't think about a certain radius, but instead think of a squashed ball. I don't know how to link it but there is a thread here on why the rounding hammer with a video. If you look at how the radius changes as the hammer is tilted, it will explain why there are more surfaces available on a properly ground rounding hammer than any other kind of hammer to forge with. If you were to grind a certain radius, all you would have is that one radius. here you go hope this helps, Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broomhead Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 here you go hope this helps, Dick Saw that, it's what made me want a rounding hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 when I make my rounding hammers I used my swedge block but in driving the hammer face against the block I stop before the metal completely bottoms out I leave a flat spot the size of a quarter on the big hammers 3# and up and a nickle on a smaller hammers 2 1/2# and down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broomhead Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Now, just if I had a swedge block...lol. I got a chance to try out my modified hammer and it worked great, really moved the material faster than I thought it would. However, I think it can be a little better, so I'm going to round it a bit more. The biggest issue I've had in rounding it is that it is a square faced drilling hammer, not octoganol like smith's or engineer's hammers are. I may pick up another smith's or engineer's hammer and make another one. I'm in the process of getting my smithy set up, but hopefully that won't take too long and I can get to pounding some more steel. I want to thank all of you for your help and I will keep this thread updated as best I can with my progress with this hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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