Hi, I have been working on a new forge and would like to hear your suggestions.  I designed the hearth to be long so that I could easily stick longer peaces into the fire.  The coal is only meant to be filled about 3/4 of the way towards the open end so that it doesn't fall out...  So once again I would love to hear any opinions or suggestions you have.

 

Thanks,

Sam

 

 

You'll find three or four stout legs will serve you better than six spindly ones.

 

Did you include an ash-dump mechanism?

Why try to reinvent the wheel. There are so many forge designs available on this site. Learn from other peoples mistakes and cures. You are not saving money by trying to build your forge.

 

Why not buy a real coal/coke forge. Pay for a real forge the first time, not the third or fourth time. There are lots out there. :) :)

 

Neil

sure I would like to buy a good forge its just that I'm on a pretty tight buget


Yes I did include an ash dump, I'm just not good enough in sketchup to make one hahahaha

6 legs are bad. Because each of the points on the floor needs to be level, and logically, the more points on the floor you connect to, the less chance they'll all be level and as a result, a 6 leg table will be more wobbly than a 3 or 4 leg table. And you want the legs to be thick and strong so the table doesn't wobble like captain Jack Sparrow.

Make sure the firepot is placed in direct middle of the table.

as already stated, you'll be much happier with 4 legs instead of 6. I would also cut out the sides on either side of the firepot. I like your tong holder...looks far enough away that they shouldn't get hot

thanks for your advice I will use four thicker legs rather than six. As for the sides could I cut out a slot in the back since Im already planning to have it open in the front?

ah, I didn't realize that the open end was the front. After re-reading your post I realize, now, that you did that for longer pieces. Seems like a long way to have to reach to get to your fire...just my opinion. I would definitely make a cutout on the back for longer pieces to pass through. It doesn't have to be very wide...maybe 6-8" .

Thanks for the info I will make a cutout in the back. as for it being a long way to reach it will also be easily accessible from the side the way I have my shop layed out . thank you all for your suggestions and I welcome anymore (I need as many as I can get haha).

Thanks again,
Sam


As for the legs would 2 inch angle iron work?

Legs: 2"x2"x1/8" would be plenty (and go with just four legs, if the table needs more support just use the extra angle running along the underside of the table to stiffen it)

 

cutouts: mine has cutouts on the side so I run long stock from side to side, not front to back. I have a hood at the back which would interfere. Remember that you don't just heat the ends of long stock. So, you need a cutout in the back or go to side cutouts. (Side cutouts are more common, since forges often back up to the wall or have a hood at the back.)

Have you reviewed this thread yet regarding forges?  If not I'd recommend it.  As already said, heavier legs/frame and I'd add wheels.

 

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I have pictures of mine in this thread.

 

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Thanks for all your suggestions here is my new design it has a telescoping stock suppourt and will have angle iron legs the extra area from befor5 will be used for more coal

 

 

I would just make a seperate "mono-pod" stock stand with a wide base, or a sawhorse type stand for long stock.  I've seen long stock drag a forge over onto it's side.  It's very loud, very messy, and hot stuff everywhere.  On top of that, with a seperate stand, there is no limitation to the length of stock you can hold.  It comes in handy when you're bending 6 foot or longer pieces, which I've had to do for making dead-eyes for a full scale replica spanish galleon.

Thanks Jerome but I'm not working with very large stock (mostly half inch) and not in very long lengths either and this is more convenient but I do appreciate your suggestion

bump

That's starting to look nice. Make two and send me one!

 

I like the shift to side cut outs.

 

Think about mounts for a hood. I use a "Super Sucker" side-draft hood. (google that, you'll find it). Even if you use this outside, having a hood with a 5' stack will help keep you from breathing nasty stuff. And, it means you don't have to be as concerned about being on the upwind side. Might save your life if you accidentally burn zinc off of something (galvanized stuff can kill).

 

You'll like the slide out supports. You can always build some stand-alone ones later if you work with long / heavy stuff.

 

Eric

thanks, as for the hood it will be a section of air ducting hanging over it will this be sufficent?

Just a couple of ideas for you to think about.

You may need a bit more bracing under your cut outs in the table to stop in buckling from heat & use.

 

IMHO all cross braces on legs should be at least 8" off the ground. This allows you to easily clean around & under the item also you are not kicking them with your feet when you are getting close to it.

 

I would mount the slide points on the legs not your underneath table plate. This reduces heat transfer which can inhibit the slides.

 

I am sure you will have fun making & use your forge.

 

Peter

thanks pjh, but how would I put the slides in the legs?

thanks pjh, but how would I put the slides in the legs?

Mount the tubes that it slide in to the inside edge of the legs instead of under the table. an inch lower & out at the legs will make a lot of difference.

but wouldnt that mean that the whole stock holder would be the length of the forge

but wouldnt that mean that the whole stock holder would be the length of the forge

yes but would that be a problem? If done with square tube you could just have a right angle arm with only 1 slide

oops I didn't realize that i put square tubing in the image but I will be using round tubing

oops I didn't realize that i put square tubing in the image but I will be using round tubing

never mind im using square tubing haha I'm indecisive