JShock Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 I just talked to a guy about this anvil. It is listed at 92# He is pretty firm on 300$ for it. I have not looked at it in person just yet and I just wanted a little advise. When I go look at the anvil what should I be looking for exactly. Is there anything I should take with me to test it with? At 92# is 300$ to much? I am not even sure what kind it is and he did not seem to either. I have never purchased an anvil and just looking for a little direction. I am currently hammering on a Rail Road track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 It's hard to tell from the pics but it looks like the real deal to me....Possibly a Hay Budden and worth every penny if the face is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JShock Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 Well I will be going out tomorrow morning to look at it. A friend told me to take a hammer and see if it rings out. If it does not sound hallow then buy it. He said if it does not ring then it may be cracked? Other than that it would be better than banging on a rail road track any day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JShock Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Ok, I went a head and bought this anvil. This is stamped Kohlswa Sweden on one side and 95lbs on the other. My scale at home read it as 95lbs. The guy I got it from said he has just had it sitting in his welding shop for a long time, but did not know how long exactly. I can not find any other markings other than the name and weight. It only has one or two little chips on the face. Lots of little marks all over. But other than that it is in great condition minus surface rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Oh Gooood score! I'm especially fond of Swedish anvils, I have a Sodorfors and it moves metal better than my Trenton weighing in at almost double. I believe it's a steel face on a cast steel body and should ring to make folk wince 50' away. $300 is an outstanding deal by the looks of it. Clean it up by using it, hot iron/steel and a hammer will do a fine job while a wire wheel or heaven's forbid a disk grinder/sander will remove metal. Of course that's just my opinion, I COULD be wrong.<wink> Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Very good anvil! The weight is just about perfect. Just be sure to mount the anvil to a very secure, very heavy stump so that it doesn't move in the least. Any wiggle or wobble will detract from your ability to move hot iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 This is stamped Kohlswa Sweden on one side in Iowa they call them Coleslaw anvils..... just sayin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Surface rust don't count, round here it's called a patina. Good score! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JShock Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 There is a bunch of red paint on it that has rust under it. I will get some of that off with a regular wire brush and some wd40. Outside of that I did not plan on much grinding or any more wire wheel. I cleaned up the marks real quick to see what I could read on it. I definitely do not want to remove any additional metal from it. I found two more marks on it. One under where it is labled 95 lbs that has a distinct N---S---(maybe)OW. On the bottom of it is K 3/2 02. I am curious what these are and started doing some searching but I have not found anything that matches yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JShock Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Cant help it. I am pretty excited. I have to wait till thursday before I can take it for a test drive. I have a really large oak stump that I have to cut about 5in off the top to get the height right for it. I am trying to figure out the best way to mount it exactly. I had my RR track held down with chain and large nails. It would not move at all. I have seen people take a router and cut out a shape of the base into the wood then chain it down or use U bolts or something. I will figure it out one way or another. I just cant wait to put metal to it! Thanks all for the support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windancer Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Good score! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I morticed my Sodorfors into a spruce block and it's served me well for many years. My next stand for it will be steel though, it's taken most of the ring out of the Trenton, is easier to move and I can stand with my feet literally under it. My Sodorfors has the casting date on it so perhaps does yours. K? 3/2 02? maybe is, March 2 1902? Just a WAG but I'm kind of excited for you. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 My Sodorfors has the casting date on it so perhaps does yours. K? 3/2 02? maybe is, March 2 1902? Just a WAG but I'm kind of excited for you. European date code is day/month/year, so it may be 3/FEB/02. But that is getting kind of picky :P I have my anvil held down with a couple of BIG smith make spikes ( out of old railroad spikes, just bend the top over more ) and what looks like a large fence staple. The spikes are set so I can twist the anvil out from under them to remove it and the staple is there to keep it from twisting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JShock Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Wow on the date. If that is right. I have tons of railroad spikes. I might just try using them. I would like to get a metal stand, but I would not pay for one. Ill just find the scrap and ask my brother in law to use hit torch and welding equipment and we will just build one. Till then the Oak will do. Thank you Frosty and Drewed. I can not wait till Thursday. My mother wants a Hatchet for her bug out bag, and the wife needs a coat rack. Gonna be a busy week!! Ill post pics once I get a couple of things done. Thanks again everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 That's a beauty, can't wait to see what you forge on it! Here's a picture of my anvil stand that was arc welded from drops. At .40 a lb I paid $24 for it and my time (which doesn't count when you're having fun) The legs are filled w/ sand & oil to cut down on sound, caulking under a board which the anvil sits on, covered w/ sand. There are eyebolts on either side for when I get around to forging a spring type hold down strap. When I move everything to the opposite side of the garage I'm going to bolt it down to the concrete. Surprising how much it jumps around when using a 4 lb hammer. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Before you bolt it down you might try a skim of silicone calking on the feet. NO, don't glue it to the floor! That'll work but it makes it a real bear to move, flip the stand upside down and put a thin smear of calking on it with a putty knife and let it dry. It'll make a good no skid surface. I learned the trick from the Alaska Marine Highway guys, it's how they keep the dinner wear from sliding off tables in rough seas. It does journeyman duty keeping anvils from walking around without mounting them solidly to the floor. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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