Is it worth $250?

[Shanemr]

Going friday to see it in person 135 lbs. Local scrap yard called me on it.

[VaughnT]

The edges look pretty chewed up, but you can radius them with a sander and get them functioning better.  The face looks good and flat, and the horn isn't buggered.

 

I'd try to get them to come down on the price, personally.  But, what is the anvil market like it your area?  Do you see a lot of anvils coming up?  Is this your first anvil?  Generally, I like a light anvil like that because they are easy to move but don't really hamper you in the scope of work you might want to explore.  $1/lb is a great price for an anvil in that condition.  $2/lb is reasonable considering that the condition of the edges.  Over $2/lb is simply too much, however, unless you just don't see a lot of anvils coming up for sale.

 

I'd probably buy it just to save it from being scrapped.  It will come in handy in any shop, even if it's as a weight or prop for another project.  New smiths can use it and not be afraid of banging it up with a missed hammer blow.  Just be sure to check it for ring and rebound to make sure it's a sound anvil.

[Timothy Miller]

Its a bit high probably more in the 175 to 200 range.  But if you want to get forging you wont take a huge hit reselling it down the road when you find something better.

[Shanemr]

First anvil. They're customers of mine at John Deere. I'll offer $200 cash. Randy who's mentoring me is saying we can weld the edges and grind or mill it back. All I had is a 15 inch section of rail I was gonna shape up. I can recoup probably about 50-80 or more selling the rail. Anvil market here is scarce and expensive.

[Ridgewayforge]

Looks good! If its your first and the market it low, when you find a better one you can make it look pretty with a wire wheel and linseed oil and get close to $300 on it.

[VaughnT]

Well, if you have access to the tools to bring the edges back to square properly, and there's a lack of anvils in your area, jump on it.  He's asking less than $2/lb and that's a good price.  Be prepared to pay the full asking price, however, so it doesn't go to someone else.

 

Good size anvil for general shop work and I'm sure you won't loose money should you decide to sell it in the future.

[Judson Yaggy]

Where is "here"?  Prices vary around the world and even around the USA.  

 

I'd just buy and use that anvil.  Welding and grinding it could be a mistake.  First, from the photos it looks perfectly functional as is.  Blacksmithing rarely happens in a machine shop, you are going to be hitting things with a 4 pound hammer and gaining skills for the next 10 or 20 or lifetime years so a ragged edge or two will be ok till you get really good at smiting.  Second, to my eye that looks like a Fisher anvil.  Tool steel face well mounted to a quality cast iron base.  You and your mentor may have the skills to properly weld and heat treat these materials but that anvil is not so far gone to need it (from the photos).  Third, if you ever want to resell it a repaired anvil is more of an unknown than an original condition one.  Did you squirt some mig weld onto it last week or did you do a good job 5 years ago and use it hard every day since then?  Hard to say, value goes down.  

[Shanemr]

http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8571664299
http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8571661067
http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8572751476
Hopefully the images post. After sandblasting its a 135lb Fisher Eagle circa 1891. Randy is gonna help me fix the pitted holes and use hardened welding rods to fix the edges up a little bit. I'm still using his anvils until my forge is finished and I get set up at home. I read these anvils don't ring as loud as most which is a big plus.

[ThomasPowers]

Shouldn't ring at all; should be a lovely "Thwap" sound as you hammer.  My main shop anvil is a 515# Fisher.

 

Don't make the edges too hard or two sharp!   I read in a 100+ year old smithing book where they were advising you to round the edges of a new anvil before use to avoid it marking stock (and causing problems with cold shuts)

 

If you need a sharp edge why not make a hardy tool with 4 of them!

[Shanemr]

Plan on rounding the edges, squaring up the hardy hole and cleaning up the horn. Not a lot of work.

[VaughnT]

Well, if it's a Fisher, you should definitely buy it.  Your children will grow strong and handsome, and your wife will smile constantly.  That's what makes Fishers special!

 

That one pit on the face gives me pause.  It looks very deep and I wonder if there isn't a previously-repaired chip or cut being hidden by some weld.  Fisher didn't  pour the top plate in place so there shouldn't be a bubble or inclusion.  Not saying that something couldn't have happened, but it's something to think about.

 

All told, though, it's a great looking piece of Fisher history.  If you get to spend any time around smiths forging on non-Fisher anvils, you'll quickly come to appreciate the lack of ring that a Fisher brings to the smithy!  They are truly great anvils and you're lucky to have one in the stable.