homeshow Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Got free mystery leaf springs. Yay sparks hi carbon and my next question is dip or edge quench in 100 degree plus oil then normalize. What temp how long how many times? Is multiple quenches a good thing? I'm going to make a blank and give it the leg vice and vice grips test. How far along to finish does this test need to be? Daily carry utility farm is the planned usage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 It depend on wot you wish to see with your testing. If you are wanting to see if it is able to be hardened in oil and would like to see the grain pattern if it breaks, you have to use the proper sequence for hardening. We covered that in one of the early knife making lessons. Forgive me it I don't retype all of that in this little box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I covered most of what you asked on the heat treating information in the ref section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Is it invisible to cell phones? Ref section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maillemaker Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/25247-heat-treat-information/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 OPINIONS vary here at the choo choo forge. Hit it when it was too cooled is 1 opinion. Did it cool too fast left on a table? Should it have gone I warm peralite? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Someone on here may have some thoughts: For me I would need all information aboiut this. Like the soiurce of the material and all steps in the heat treat process and forging procedures. Kinda like askin for presription from a Doc and not telling him or her wot ails you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchjv Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Maybe the cracks were already there?( if an old piece of leaf spring was used). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 51XX? that in itself will have a huge effect on how the steel moves. Lets assum 5160, I've found it is very forgiving. It will move a little even when at a red heat , doesn't red short like 1095. More than likely it already had cracks, if not that then I'd tend to think it was being worked to cool while trying to move more than one should (like with a power hammer). Then again, not enough info on how it was being worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 What actually do you have ? If you dont know then we can start there and try to figure it out, you have asked about 51XX in a few places at IFI, and 51xx by itself means little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Sorry, after market jeep leaf spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Count me out!,,,,too many unanswered questions.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 51XX? that in itself will have a huge effect on how the steel moves. Lets assum 5160, I've found it is very forgiving. It will move a little even when at a red heat , doesn't red short like 1095. More than likely it already had cracks, if not that then I'd tend to think it was being worked to cool while trying to move more than one should (like with a power hammer). Then again, not enough info on how it was being worked. Very insightful. Yes I did use a power hammer and most probably let the metal get too cool. I'll definetly watch the heat. Yellow/orange sound about right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aden Cassidy Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 What i generally do it at, by hand hammering though. Have only had trouble with it cracking once, made a BIG chopping blade for bush outings was working around with,(was going to see how it went then sell it) Quenched in hot oil, looked fine,good weight, big but not too top heavy, could've made an improvised axe. Got home and decided not to temper it right away, next morning big crack from the side curving inwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 What i generally do it at, by hand hammering though. Have only had trouble with it cracking once, made a BIG chopping blade for bush outings was working around with,(was going to see how it went then sell it) Quenched in hot oil, looked fine,good weight, big but not too top heavy, could've made an improvised axe. Got home and decided not to temper it right away, next morning big crack from the side curving inwards. Stress did not get relieved by normalizing? Is that a bigger problem the bigger the piece? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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